Allie-Maillard Conformateur

[mayserwegener]

Also there was a push to develop / market self conforming and flexible stiff hats.

By the way here is an H. Maillard ad from Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung (December 13, 1913).

 

[mx5roger]

I have just got a ALLIE MAILLARD COMFORMATEUR IN GOOD CONDITION JUST NEEDS A CLEAN COMES WITH 2 for millions plus other parts

There are several threads dedicated to the conformateur on the Fedora Lounge, but most are old and populated with broken links. I've started this new thread and post below a few "before" pictures of the conformateur I purchased recently on ebay. A couple of the ebony fingers are broken and the flat spring that holds the cork lined lid in the closed position has snapped and been modified to perform its function. But it appears that all parts are present, repairable and calling out for some careful cleaning and renovation. The restoration of this great old device will be a winter project. Maybe it will occupy enough free time to keep me away from hat auctions for a while?

Pictures of the restoration process to follow. In the meantime, I would love for others to post additional photos, reference and knowledge on this device and its sibling, the formillion.

 

[mx5roger]

For sale

I am new on here so please bare with me
I have one of these ,in good condition just needs a clean comes with 2 formal lions plus other parts
If you know if any body wants one

 

[TipTop]

Looks downright Rube Goldberg-meets-Dickens. But it makes such pretty pictures:

 

[majormoore]

Let me know the price , I may want another one.

Major Moore
Buckaroo Hatters

I am new on here so please bare with me
I have one of these ,in good condition just needs a clean comes with 2 formal lions plus other parts
If you know if any body wants one

 

[mx5roger]

Allie maillard hat conformateur plus tools etc

Let me know the price , I may want another one.

Major Moore
Buckaroo Hatters

Hi
I only got it Friday and have done a little research on it on the internet
it looks all ok just needs a clean
there 2 x formillions and another oval wood thing with brass bar through
plus a key , an iron and a nother brass wood handle item
and a wooden stand about 12inch dia
will put pictures on once i have worked how to do it
as regards price not sure so open to offers , i did pay quite abit for it
hope all that hellps
mx5roger

 

[mrichards]

Conformateur

Hi, do you still have this for sale? If so is it complete and what condition is it in please?

Many Thanks

Mike

 

[mrichards]

Sorry, just re read your post so you have effectively answered my prior questions. Could you post some pictures or e mail them to me please. Also, how much do you want for it?

 

[danofarlington]

I'd like to get one of those just so I could wear it around town.

 

[ianto]

this is a link to ebay for my allie maillard if anyone is interested
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221101129112?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

 

[bloc]

Hello Alan, got hold of a conformateur at last which looks a lot like your model. It's in great condition and seems to be working fine. I wondered if you had a date for yours? People want to know how old it is. I know there are a few different models, just not been able to date mine yet.

How is the renovation coming on?

Cheers.

 

[alanfgag]

Congratulations on finding a conformateur in good condition. I haven't researched the manufacture date on mine, nor have I made much progress on the renovation. Perhaps this winter. Life and other projects keep getting in the way!

 

[bloc]

Congratulations on finding a conformateur in good condition. I haven't researched the manufacture date on mine, nor have I made much progress on the renovation. Perhaps this winter. Life and other projects keep getting in the way!

Ah, life, always gets in the way...

Well, good luck with it. I'll do some research and let you know how I get on. Cheers.

 

[alanfgag]

Excellent... and post more pictures of your find!

 

[bloc]

Excellent... and post more pictures of your find!

Think I'm getting somewhere, I've sent pictures to someone who's done a bit of research so I'll let you know what I find out.

Meanwhile, the postman brought me this



It seems that it may be a one off made from parts of the original formillion. There is no makers mark. It came from the same place as the conformateur so I presume they are a "pair". I've never seen a metal one before, have you? And I wondered, as it's metal, if it would be as well to heat this and put it in the hat rather than heat the hat. Or might that cause distortion somehow? Uneven expansion of the pegs or something? All thoughts and information most welcome.

 

[ManofKent]

I know nothing about them, but they're great finds

 

[alanfgag]

I don't believe I've seen a brass formillion before... quite spectacular. It must weigh a ton. I've had two wooden formillions and both rested perfectly on the wood base. I expect these were made to specifications so that a matched pair was not necessary. I don't think any heat is necessary other than steam on the felt.

 

[TheDane]

And I wondered, as it's metal, if it would be as well to heat this and put it in the hat rather than heat the hat.

That would probably be a very bad idea. Back in the day the hat was heated (brim down) over the plate, usually used to heat irons and sandbagger - most often resting on a pair of strings/wires. In order to protect crown and sweatband, a large pad was placed in the crown prior to heating. A heated brass formillion would no doubt harm the leather.

The weak spot is not the pegs or anything else on the formillion, either. The weak spot is the conformateur, depending on it's construction. The "tall" conformateur is not a construction anyone would suggest today. The system with the vertical levers is a quite inaccurate construction. This wobbly system is furthermore used to downscale the head-profile. The reduced profile is later restored with the formillion - not in a particularly accurate way, either. Allie & Maillard's halo-type in the ad, Steve showed here - or the type most custom hatters use today - is a lot more accurate. I don't see much reason to make the formillion more sturdy.

I see a hatter with a mechanic son-in-law, who wanted to "grease" his relations to dad-in-law a bit. Had it been a formillion, produced in quantities, we would have seen more. I'm quite sure, this is a custom made tool - custom made by some reason, we can only guess about.

 

[bloc]

I don't believe I've seen a brass formillion before... quite spectacular. It must weigh a ton. I've had two wooden formillions and both rested perfectly on the wood base. I expect these were made to specifications so that a matched pair was not necessary. I don't think any heat is necessary other than steam on the felt.

It is quite heavy, not brass though, the photo has made it look like it is. Not sure what metal it is. I had a go with it today and heated the hat on my heated metal hat stretcher which seemed to work well. Needs a bit of tweaking though, coming out too small circumference wise at the moment.

 

[bloc]

That would probably be a very bad idea. Back in the day the hat was heated (brim down) over the plate, usually used to heat irons and sandbagger - most often resting on a pair of strings/wires. In order to protect crown and sweatband, a large pad was placed in the crown prior to heating. A heated brass formillion would no doubt harm the leather.

The weak spot is not the pegs or anything else on the formillion, either. The weak spot is the conformateur, depending on it's construction. The "tall" conformateur is not a construction anyone would suggest today. The system with the vertical levers is a quite inaccurate construction. This wobbly system is furthermore used to downscale the head-profile. The reduced profile is later restored with the formillion - not in a particularly accurate way, either. Allie & Maillard's halo-type in the ad, Steve showed here - or the type most custom hatters use today - is a lot more accurate. I don't see much reason to make the formillion more sturdy.

I see a hatter with a mechanic son-in-law, who wanted to "grease" his relations to dad-in-law a bit. Had it been a formillion, produced in quantities, we would have seen more. I'm quite sure, this is a custom made tool - custom made by some reason, we can only guess about.

Yes, when I thought about it I could see that hot metal and leather might be a bad mix!

I am keeping my eyes open for a halo conformateur, it really does make more sense, why scale down and then up again? There is bound to be accuracy lost. Currently this pair are reducing my head size by 1/2 inch. I need to tweak and play around with it to find the most accurate way to use it.

Still customers love the look of it and the history and the experience of trying it and that is worth something in itself.