Alexander Leathers

[ykurtz]

Horween enumerates different kinds of Chromexcel hides....

-Aniline Chromexcel WP – the classic, hot stuffed pull-up leather
-Beaufort Chromexcel – the same as the above, but with a different oil/wax blend. Designed to be cementable due to less oil.
-Wooly Chromexcel – receives a different stuffing blend with a heavy addition of wool grease (lanolin)
-Plainsman Chromexcel – A duller version with a more pronounced grain character
-Kudu Chromexcel – Plainsman that has been hand-curried (oiled by hand)
-Cavalier Chromexcel – Similar to Beaufort, with a lighter colored base tannage, allowing us to produce brighter colors.
-Huntsman – a.k.a. Waxed Flesh, this version is finished on the flesh side, give it a slicked-down-suede look
-Casual Chromexcel – A mellow (softer) version with less pull-up
-Stampede Chromexcel – Chromexcel with a matte, nubuck finish
-Marine Field Shoe – A natural, flesh out version tanned for the use in boots during WWII (North African Theater)
-Natural M’s Chromexcel – A heavy, mechanical leather used for oil seals
-Glace Chromexcel – A version with a high gloss finish
-Vintage Chromexcel – softer with a slightly pre-aged look

Just about all of the above can be run on either cowhide or horsehide.

 

[ykurtz]

Looks like Horween has 4 options: vegetable tanning only, chrome only, combination (both vegetable and chrome) and 'tanned without chrome.' The vast majority are combination tanned. See this chart:

http://horween.com/leathers/full-tannage-list/

Columns 3-6 are the relevant columns indicating the kind of tanning used for a particular hide brand.

That said, we're just talking Chromexcel, and per Horween, it is both vegetable and chrome tanned. Plumbline is correct. (And I just learned something new today.)

 

[Plumbline]

I used a much easier technique ... I just asked some people who know

 

[hpalapdog]

Looks like Horween has 4 options: vegetable tanning only, chrome only, combination (both vegetable and chrome) and 'tanned without chrome.' The vast majority are combination tanned. See this chart:

http://horween.com/leathers/full-tannage-list/

Columns 3-6 are the relevant columns indicating the kind of tanning used for a particular hide brand.

That said, we're just talking Chromexcel, and per Horween, it is both vegetable and chrome tanned. Plumbline is correct. (And I just learned something new today.)

Eh ? There is no mention of Chromexel in the Horween Warhawk description. That's why I originally asked the question !

http://www.alexanderleathers.com/information-menu/our-leathers.html

 

[Sloan1874]

It's just chrome, that's why. AL don't have access to Horween's CXL horse.

 

[hpalapdog]

I used a much easier technique ... I just asked some people who know

Hopefully, Arnold or Nick Horween told you that and not Alexander. As we know from past shenanigans, jacket makers are sometimes not to fussed about the actual type of leather they use in the descriptive sense !

 

[Plumbline]

People who know told me ..... lets leave it there ...... for now. I wait and see what the samples are like when it arrives, I'll judge what I see and feel rather than heresay, gossip or rumour all I know for a fact is that the name "Warhawk " is Horween's not Alexanders and it's combination tanned ( like many of Horweens products) .. it doesn't exist on the tanning list as of yet but it will at the next update.

The world of jacket makers indeed ..... there are few that are trustworthy ... few indeed.

 

[jlanderson]

People who know told me ..... lets leave it there ...... for now. I wait and see what the samples are like when it arrives, I'll judge what I see and feel rather than heresay, gossip or rumour all I know for a fact is that the name "Warhawk " is Horween's not Alexanders and it's combination tanned ( like many of Horweens products) .. it doesn't exist on the tanning list as of yet but it will at the next update.

The world of jacket makers indeed ..... there are few that are trustworthy ... few indeed.

VERY few, indeed. And that's why I do business with, well, ... .

 

[Plumbline]

Me too ......... people I trust

 

[Sloan1874]

I'm sure you're a very trusting soul.

 

[Plumbline]

There are only three types I don't trust Craig ... Lawyers, Estate Agents and anyone in the press

 

[pauleway]

There are only three types I don't trust Craig ... Lawyers, Estate Agents and anyone in the press

And the Quasi-(closet)commie politicians we have running the country!:eusa_doh:

 

[Sloan1874]

Two very good ways to judge people: by their actions and the company they keep.

 

[jlanderson]

Two very good ways to judge people: by their actions and the company they keep.

+1

 

[Stand By]

I was about to add "politicians" to the list, there ...!
Your man isn't in the closet, Pauleway. For those who actually want to follow and read his dealings (today I was reading about his launching of "myRA"), it's all there in plain sight ... Most frightening.

This is an interesting thread, I must say ... and I love the "Judean People's Front hating the Peoples Front of Judea" comment earlier. Made me laugh out loud, that one ...!

 

[Plumbline]

Two very good ways to judge people: by their actions and the company they keep.

We've gone fronm trusting people to "judging" people .. it's a interesting change. Stop dragging things down to "Press" level ..... this was quite an inocuous post about Warhawk hide the inuendo and guttersniping is unnessecary and not particularly helpful or in fact adding anything to the thread. The question was asked about Alexanders latest hide ..... the answer was offered, challenged then clarified ....... for further clarity.

The hide is Combination Tanned, Hot Stuffed, Air Dried and Aniline Finished .... a little more grainy than the CT apparently but I'll pass judgement when I see the samples. That's three sources who should know what they are talking about now ... and AGAIN for the record if it was CXL it would be called CXL ...... it's not, it's Warhawk which has the Tanning Details as listed above !

HTH

 

[pauleway]

I was about to add "politicians" to the list, there ...!
Your man isn't in the closet, Pauleway. For those who actually want to follow and read his dealings (today I was reading about his launching of "myRA"), it's all there in plain sight ... Most frightening.

That's true, if you follow what he says and does, but most people do not. And he is definately not MY man, but just what I got stuck with!!:eeek:

 

[Feraud]

People, let's keep the politics and/or personal animosities out of the discussion.
Thanks.

 

[Capesofwrath]

We've gone fronm trusting people to "judging" people .. it's a interesting change. Stop dragging things down to "Press" level ..... this was quite an inocuous post about Warhawk hide the inuendo and guttersniping is unnessecary and not particularly helpful or in fact adding anything to the thread. The question was asked about Alexanders latest hide ..... the answer was offered, challenged then clarified ....... for further clarity.

The hide is Combination Tanned, Hot Stuffed, Air Dried and Aniline Finished .... a little more grainy than the CT apparently but I'll pass judgement when I see the samples. That's three sources who should know what they are talking about now ... and AGAIN for the record if it was CXL it would be called CXL ...... it's not, it's Warhawk which has the Tanning Details as listed above !

HTH

Interesting if so. Then it is a new hide and not just the old CT renamed? A way for Horween to get more CXL like hide out? I think they find it hard to keep up with demand for the stuff, or a way around a contractual arrangement for the supply of CXL perhaps?

Just speculation...

BTW it's a pity that yet another thread on this company is sidetracked by nasty comments. They exist and seem to be growing so get over it.

 

[hpalapdog]

I've asked for a swatch of Bison and Warhawk. I'll post some close up photos.

Years ago Julian Bacon gave me a tour of the Wingrove tannery in Somerset he was running. It closed some time ago and they built a housing estate over it !
Anyway, they had traditional veg tanning pits and this type of leather is quite distinctive. When new it has crisp handle. Harder to tell on Horween's CXL leather as they use hefty amounts of distinctive fats and oils rather than the more common types of Fat Liquors.

I bought a Roadster from Alexander when they first started up. £300 for a jacket made of eastern European horsehide veg tanned in the UK was hard to pass up.
This was the original website picture



and this when it was broken in a bit





They still have jackets at £300

http://www.alexanderleathers.com/sale/roadster-seal-jerky-horse-40.html