Alexander Leathers Cafe Racer

[Carlos840]

Beautiful jacket, Carlos. Hurry up with the fit pics.
I really dig their D-pocket CR Custom. They should stick with it and drop Ae... um, classic 60's bike jacket entirely.

Thanks,

I was thinking about asking them if they would do a cafe Racer with a plain back and the D pocket, no red white and blue lines.

That would look awesome...

 

[A-1]

The jacket looks great and the leather is beautiful!
I am wondering how the AL leather compares to the AERO FQHH especially in thickness and weight.

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks,

Unfortunately i don't have an Aero to compare. I did handle one that i ended up sending back, and to be honest it feels very similar.
Smells the same, feels as cardboardy when new, and i am soon going to post pictures of the broken in jacket so people can compare.

One thing i noticed, is that the points were the jacket rubs, ie end of sleeves, bottom hem, seem to be losing color very fast, and are kind of showing the brown undercoat.
Also, when compared to other black leather i have it has a definite reddish brown undertone to it.
It looks black when seen on it's own, but lay a black belt over it, and it's actually obvious it is not as black as black can be.

It does look great though, and is my best fitting jacket.

 

[jonbuilder]

"One thing i noticed, is that the points were the jacket rubs, ie end of sleeves, bottom hem, seem to be losing color very fast, and are kind of showing the brown undercoat.
Also, when compared to other black leather i have it has a definite reddish brown undertone to it.
It looks black when seen on it's own, but lay a black belt over it, and it's actually obvious it is not as black as black can be."

Maybe an over die I having a jacket made by Johnson leathers from a steer CXL brown over died in black. Alan making the jacket from photos I sent him

 

[Carlos840]

From what i have read, all the Horween leathers start out as brown and then the top coat of the chosen color is applied.
This is because most of their sales are brown leather, and they only have one tumbler.
Because of the price of a tumbler it would not make sens to get a second one for black, and it is not worth the time it takes to clean it.

So all their leather starts out as brown, and then get a hand applied top coat, which could be brown or black, not sure about burgundy and the other colors.

Some other manufacturers might do things differently, some leathers are dyed black all the way through, some brown, some are not dyed at all and keep the weird greyish blue color under the top coat.
Schott and Lewis Leathers for example are not dyed through and have a blueish hide underneath the top coat.

Just saw this in another thread, and it shows what i am talking about very well:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AERO-Custom...20?pt=US_CSA_MC_Outerwear&hash=item3a9f7a5ca4

Mine is far from that, but it looks like this is what it will end up looking like.

 

[Sloan1874]

I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I've seen discussions about drum-dyed black Horween on the Lounge.

 

[A-1]

Thanks! I really like the brown undertone. I was thinking about burgundy by AL but this makes me consider black again.

 

[nick123]

"One thing i noticed, is that the points were the jacket rubs, ie end of sleeves, bottom hem, seem to be losing color very fast, and are kind of showing the brown undercoat.
Also, when compared to other black leather i have it has a definite reddish brown undertone to it.
It looks black when seen on it's own, but lay a black belt over it, and it's actually obvious it is not as black as black can be."

Maybe an over die I having a jacket made by Johnson leathers from a steer CXL brown over died in black. Alan making the jacket from photos I sent him

The Johnson overdye leather is interesting. I've seen a post here where a member had acquired a relatively significant patch of brown showing through his jacket, but having handled mine, I don't think the fading for that leather is really a fast process. I'd guess maybe at least five years of moderate wear. The brown will show through in certain lighting conditions in photos though, more than in person.
What I will add, is that as is, the Horween overdye stuff is an excellent color. If they could concoct a recipe for a leather that stays that same color, with minimal color change it would be brilliant. When you see yours, you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

[Sloan1874]

Horween have also said that they produce leathers with top coats that have different 'fastness', which means some will wear quicker than others. In the past, I think this caused some people angst when, two weeks after getting their latest acquisition, they find it's already starting to take on a vintage look.

 

[andywuzc]

I got the same jacket as Carlos. Actually, I bought his 1 sample jacket where it was damaged around zipper area.
Never own a black HH before but I have a cordova HH from Aero. I feel that black is a bit dry (less oil feeling) when you compare to cordova from Aero. Maybe also more susceptible to scratches.
The thickness of AL HH might be a bit thicker particularly with this one but of course it depends on area. Difference area of jacket has difference thickness.

 

[Sockeye]

Carlos, outstanding jacket! The red lining is a nice touch. I personally am looking for the same style, but perhaps less tapered (18.5 shoulders, 23-24 pit to pit, 21 across the bottom hem) and was thinking I needed to go the half belt route. Did AL customize the dimensions much from the base jacket size? What size is it, a 42?

Thanks

 

[Carlos840]

I got the same jacket as Carlos. Actually, I bought his 1 sample jacket where it was damaged around zipper area.
Never own a black HH before but I have a cordova HH from Aero. I feel that black is a bit dry (less oil feeling) when you compare to cordova from Aero. Maybe also more susceptible to scratches.
The thickness of AL HH might be a bit thicker particularly with this one but of course it depends on area. Difference area of jacket has difference thickness.

Any news from that jacket? Did you decide to keep it, and does it fit ok?

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks,

AL did customize the jacket a lot, i had tried bought regular size 42 from their sales page but sent it back, it was burgundy, and although it looked like a nice reddish brown online it was actually bright purple.
This allowed me know where i stood with a regular size 42 and what needed changing.

Basically i added 1/2" in the shoulders, tapered the bottom hem down by 1" and added 1" to the back and 1.5" to the arms.

 

[andywuzc]

Hi Carlos. I think your fit is similar to my fit except sleeves length. The sleeves reach around the pit between my thumb and first finger. Almost near the knuckle of my back hand when I drop down my arms. I have sent it back to shorten it by 1 inch. Also I found that your shoulder is a bit wider than mine with around 0.5 inch on both sides. In addition, I found the sleeve zipper a bit decorative and could not zip on all the way. It feel like a hand-cuff when tighten it.
Did you customized this jacket from new?
When you put this jacket on, with the zipper zipped all the way to your throat. Do you feel restriction around your throat? I feel a bit tight. Maybe it is new and stiff.

I think wearing a cafe racer with a modified collar feels different from wearing a half-belt from aero. Maybe it is the style, my throat is not so restricted with half-belt. Can you post some pictures wearing your jacket?

 

[Carlos840]

Hi Carlos. I think your fit is similar to my fit except sleeves length. The sleeves reach around the pit between my thumb and first finger. Almost near the knuckle of my back hand when I drop down my arms. I have sent it back to shorten it by 1 inch. Also I found that your shoulder is a bit wider than mine with around 0.5 inch on both sides. In addition, I found the sleeve zipper a bit decorative and could not zip on all the way. It feel like a hand-cuff when tighten it.
Did you customized this jacket from new?
When you put this jacket on, with the zipper zipped all the way to your throat. Do you feel restriction around your throat? I feel a bit tight. Maybe it is new and stiff.

I think wearing a cafe racer with a modified collar feels different from wearing a half-belt from aero. Maybe it is the style, my throat is not so restricted with half-belt. Can you post some pictures wearing your jacket?

Nice, glad you decided to keep the jacket, it is great!

This is my third leather jacket, so i know pretty much exactly what i need measurement wise. I sent AL the complete measurements and they did the jacket, so it is pretty much completely custom.

The sleeve zips zip all the way, but you do have to fold the inner portion of the leather a few times until the crease settles. They are definitely hard to zip in the beginning, but it will get easier.

The zipper does get uncomfortable if i zip it all the way up. It doesn't bother me, i hate the look of a fully zipped up jacket.
I usually zip it to the top of the wind flap, never higher.

I will take some fit pics tomorrow.

 

[strokes1251]

Really dig the lining you chose, makes it even more unique! Cant wait for the Fit pics

 

[2wheelgrplr]

Awesome jacket! Love it. And looking forward to the fit pics too. And I likedyour Lewis Leathers jacket too - thanks for sharing the link to that thread. On my want-list now!

 

[andywuzc]

Hey Carlos
Thank for your reply.
Wind flap underneath the front zipper also gives some issues when everytime I want to hook up the zipper head underneath of my belly. Everything (wind flap together with left side of zipper) bends outward which block my view to the hooking point.
Also How do you maintain your jacket? I am putting Beeswax&carnauba polish once a month on it.

 

[Carlos840]

Hey Carlos
Thank for your reply.
Wind flap underneath the front zipper also gives some issues when everytime I want to hook up the zipper head underneath of my belly. Everything (wind flap together with left side of zipper) bends outward which block my view to the hooking point.
Also How do you maintain your jacket? I am putting Beeswax&carnauba polish once a month on it.

I don't get that problem, honestly, just wear it, it will soften up.

As to maintaining it, i do nothing. Everything i have read points to the "less is more" approach.
My Schott 644 got a clean with a little bit of Lexol this year, but that was after 3 years of using it as a riding jacket, and it was starting to smell of road grime.
The only thing i usually do is washing off the splattered bugs with a wet sponge when the layer becomes to thick.

It's actually not good for the leather to be over treated. Aero recommends treating once you jacket reaches thirty years old.
This might be a bit extreme, but shows you that they do not need treating once a month!

 

[Carlos840]

Here are the fit pics, not the greatest pictures, but the sun goes down at midday in London right now, and today is a really crappy day.
I'm 6'2, usually walk at around 185lbs (84kg) but cutting to 175lbs (79kg) right now, jacket is a tweaked size 42.

If i had to be really critical, i would make the biceps area of the sleeve a bit tighter, but i am pretty sure that once it is broken in a bit more it won't bother me anymore.