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I've never seen a dimensional bound edge brim before.
GentlemanGamer, I sense a misunderstanding of the term dimensional as it applies to hats. A dimensional brim (when looking at the top from the top set on a table) is wider at the front and back and narrower on the sides. This has nothing to do with whether or not it's edge is raw. A raw edge brim simply doesn't have any edge binding (a ribbon stitched around the outside edge of the brim to finish it). A brim could be both dimensional as well as raw or neither.
Hope that helped,
Will
I own three Fed's (Tawny, Moonstone and Brown) all imperial felt. They're among my favourite and most worn hats. No the felt isn't up to my vintage Italian hats, nor is the finishing, but the sweat band quality is good, the felt is very sturdy, they shape easily and look good. They're no better made than the other Akubras I've got (Squatter, Campdraft, Homberg), but they're much better than average modern hats and I like the dimensions.
There's no "best" among the Akubras. They are all excellent hats. It's more a matter of what you want out of them.
I've got a Federation III (the previous model, higher-crowned and wider-brimmed than the current one - a little too large for me, actually) and a Stylemaster. Both are good classic fedoras. The Stylemaster is carbon grey and matches all my black/gray/blue jackets. The Federation is mid-brown (with a greenish cast) and matches my browns and tans. The Stylemaster is a bit dressier with its bound edge and same-color ribbon, and with its teardrop crease, I think of it as more forties style. The Federation is less dressy with its raw edge, and its straight (not tapered) sides are more thirties style. The Stylemaster is softer and flexes more, even though it came with a factory crease. The Federation is tougher, more like a western hat - it's NEVER softened up after 11 years of wear. (But it's an old model, I think the newer ones are allegedly softer.) I dry-creased it Indy style the day I got it, and it has held that bash without any problem.
I've also got a couple of country Akubras for hiking and outdoor stuff - a Cattleman and a Stockman. These are even tougher than the fedoras, and aside from the bronze medallion on the Cattleman's leather trim rusting and the lining of the Stockman getting discolored (both from heavy sweat), they have held up remarkably well. All four of these hats are the standard, Imperial felt, not the more expensive Heritage grade, which is supposedly even nicer, but doesn't seem necessary... so don't feel that you have to get a Fed IV Deluxe if prefer the regular colors.
You can't go wrong with an Akubra. The only hard part is choosing the model and color!
The felt on the Imperial Fed IVs isn't very stiff, but it's reasonably thick. The finish is not the smoothest or finest you'll find - it doesn't look rough, but it's not the incredibly finely pounced finish you get on vintage hats. I've not handled the Deluxe finish, only seen comparison photos. I'm happy enough with the Imperial, and am only likely to go Deluxe for colour options.
Colour wise it's a very personal choice, but I'd recommend the Carbon Grey - it's a nice dark grey that's also very versatile. I've got a Squatter in Carbon and will probably get a Fed in the same colour at some point. Whilst vintage hats aren't common in your size, you stand a decent chance of finding a black one at some point.
Just to throw a spanner in the works, have you thought about trying a Custom made hat? I've got my first two on order - they're a lot less expensive than you might think if you're happy with rabbit felt...
I wouldn't recommend getting a custom hat for your first fedora. I think that's something you have to aspire to, and learn more about hats so you can determine just what your preferences are when you're spec'ing one. And even if you go with a maker with a short wait, it can be a time-consuming process getting the specs and sizing right.
My usual recommendation for a first fedora is a carbon grey or acorn fawn Stylemaster from Everything Australian. Less than $100, plus around $20 shipping, and you've got a really nice hat (that looks good on nearly every facial structure, and harmonizes equally well with both suits/overcoats and jeans/jackets) in ten days.
http://www.everythingaustralian.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=535
(If you want other colors and/or faster - but more expensive - go with HatsDirect.)
I only have two Fed IVs (so far ), but I share Richard's opinions here. At the moment my favorite hat is the Tawny Fawn Fed IV in my current avatar photo. I don't know if it's the "perfect" hat for me, but it's well made, comfortable, I don't have to worry about it if I should get caught in the rain, and the proportions are exactly what I see in my mind when I think of a "classic" fedora. Surely there are higher quality hats available but, for the price, the Fed IV (or just about any Akubra hat) is a terrific "starter" hat if you like the style.I own three Fed's (Tawny, Moonstone and Brown) all imperial felt. They're among my favourite and most worn hats. No the felt isn't up to my vintage Italian hats, nor is the finishing, but the sweat band quality is good, the felt is very sturdy, they shape easily and look good. They're no better made than the other Akubras I've got (Squatter, Campdraft, Homberg), but they're much better than average modern hats and I like the dimensions.
I thought the same thing before I got my first "real" hat (my Dark Brown Fed IV), but I was surprised by how easily it took the shape I wanted. The brim took some "finessing" before I was satisfied, but that was due to my inexperience. It was a few years before I purchased my second hat, but by then I'd learned a few "tips" by reading threads here on The Lounge and that hat almost shaped itself. And the next one. And the one after that. My hats aren't as "perfect" as they might be if a professional hatter with years of experience had shaped them, but if I can give a hat a presentable shape with my fingers of butter and fists of ham, anyone can....I like the idea that they shape easily; as a newbie to the fedora, I could imagine me having some real trouble in trying to get the crown or brim to look the way I want it it to.
I only have two Fed IVs (so far ), but I share Richard's opinions here. At the moment my favorite hat is the Tawny Fawn Fed IV in my current avatar photo. I don't know if it's the "perfect" hat for me, but it's well made, comfortable, I don't have to worry about it if I should get caught in the rain, and the proportions are exactly what I see in my mind when I think of a "classic" fedora. Surely there are higher quality hats available but, for the price, the Fed IV (or just about any Akubra hat) is a terrific "starter" hat if you like the style.
I thought the same thing before I got my first "real" hat (my Dark Brown Fed IV), but I was surprised by how easily it took the shape I wanted. The brim took some "finessing" before I was satisfied, but that was due to my inexperience. It was a few years before I purchased my second hat, but by then I'd learned a few "tips" by reading threads here on The Lounge and that hat almost shaped itself. And the next one. And the one after that. My hats aren't as "perfect" as they might be if a professional hatter with years of experience had shaped them, but if I can give a hat a presentable shape with my fingers of butter and fists of ham, anyone can.
You're very welcome. Even though I'm 52 years old I only began wearing hats regularly a little over five years ago, and mostly in the last couple of years, so I still have a lot of learning to do myself. One thing I do know is, when it comes to hats you'd be hard pressed to find a better resource of knowledge and experience than The Lounge, and the members here are very generous about sharing their knowledge and offering encouragement without making you feel foolish for asking "stupid" questions. Some might call them enablers, but I prefer to think of them as a positive support group.As someone who is both new to hats and lacks a lot of coordination in general, this is really encouraging I mean, it'd really stink if I went and spent all that money on a hat only for me to not be able to get it to look the way I want it to. The fact that it's flexible enough to work even for an uncoordinated rookie like myself is a comforting thing, and makes my decision to pick up a Fed IV all the more tempting Thanks for sharing your thoughts Alex
You're very welcome. Even though I'm 52 years old I only began wearing hats regularly a little over five years ago, and mostly in the last couple of years, so I still have a lot of learning to do myself. One thing I do know is, when it comes to hats you'd be hard pressed to find a better resource of knowledge and experience than The Lounge, and the members here are very generous about sharing their knowledge and offering encouragement without making you feel foolish for asking "stupid" questions. Some might call them enablers, but I prefer to think of them as a positive support group.
You can pick up hat brushes on line but a stiffish bristled paint brush or unused shoes brush works perfectly well.