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Aero zip sleeve Highwayman Black CXL FQHH, Shoulder Gussets

2wheelgrplr

A-List Customer
Messages
425
Location
NYC & South Asia
Now THIS is the Highwayman I want, black FQHH, moto style two chest pockets, zip sleeves & shoulder gussets, plus that super nice red lining a la Lewis L (given the choice I'd go for Aero rather than LL). I'll also concur with the other guys in saying I'm preferring the regular HWMN shorter body length vs. the Premier - which is what I was considering recently, but this thread has settled that for me. Also love the retro label. Great jacket and looks fantastic on you pawineguy!
 

pawineguy

One Too Many
Messages
1,974
Location
Bucks County, PA
@technovox, sorry for the delay, unzipped pictures below of both jackets:

IMG_0162.JPG
IMG_0182.JPG
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Nice trade, for both!
I'm just leery that a HWM may be too boxy for my body type. But I like the history, the utility, and the overall unpretentiousness (if there is such a word) of the design- the HWM uniquely straddles that edge of being both a classic workingman's jacket and a biker jacket. If I could just figure out how to get a good fit on one, then I'd definitely take a leap.
That's why I'd love to see some fit pics and hear your experience on finding the right one.

The regular HWM certainly is cut to be a boxy jacket, and it would be a mistake to try and make it otherwise. To try and radically size down will get you a boxy jacket that's too small, not a slimmer fitting jacket. It was inspired by a Rivetts of Leytonstone jacket sold under their Highwayman range brand, but made a looser fit by Ken, who 'Americanised' the pattern somewhat, as I recall - the recently released "Original 59er Highwayman" is a match to the original Rivetts jacket, being a lsightly slimmerf fit, like the Lewises. (Assuming information given in the Rin Tanaka book and Lewis' own website to be correct, the Highayman from Rivetts actually predates the Lewis Dominator, Corsair, et cetera). The Premier version, which Ken designed on the basis of a "what if..." involving the jacket being designed twenty years earlier than it actually had been, is slimmer again.

There are photos on here somewhere of my HWM, a regular model. I resisted the idea for a long time, ssuming it would be too baggy for my tastes, but eventually jumped on one, and it's a wonderful 'casual' leather for kicking about in. For my money, it drapes better in some of the 'softer' leathers (though once FQHH is well broken in, it'll look right, no doubt).

I'd be very interested in that comparison. We know that Thrusdon Bros tell us to size down by 2 for the standard Highwayman. Wade says that the 38 has a pit to pit of 24 inches which is a generous 42. I find that interesting. I am your size and I have been too scared to buy one because I am either a 38, 40, or 42 depending on who you talk to. Too great a margin for error. I know with a 1930's half-belt I can fit into a 42 but I prefer a 44 as I'm not a fan of sung fitting jackets.

I've never quite understood Thurston's fixation with sizing down, but they do seem to sell to a lot of folks who actually ride in theirf jackets and want them to fit like a second skin, so that's the house style. In my opinion, it's a colossal mistake to try to size down a jacket thanboxier by design to fit like a slimcut. Just doesn't work. If that's what someone's looking for, they should look at a Sheene or a Premier HWM.

In general, I do find that I wear different sizes in Aero depending on the cut - a 42 in my HWM and Bootlegger, a 44 in the prewar cuts. If I went down to a 40 in the HWM, it would totally throw off the proportions and look odd. [huh]

Yes, the red lining is an amazing thing. The rest of the jacket is certainly too, but that red lining makes it look awesome.

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I love the red too - I have it in my black Dustbowl. Really vibrant.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,321
Location
Germany
pawineguy, I love the fit of that black HWM, I even daresay I like it better than the Premier HWM. The broader shoulders and boxier appearance look damn cool!
 

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