Aero Sizing - large chest to waist ratio - Premier 1930s Highwayman

[BrownOT]

Hello, I am a lurker who has finally made a commitment to getting a leather jacket. I will get one from both Thedi, and Aero! I will keep this thread to my Aero jacket. It seems Thedi will work around my specific dimensions to make the jacket work for me.

Firstly, this forum has been very useful for me, truly! Very good, informative, friendly forum. Thank you.

I need some help with sizing (yes I am in contact with the production teams from Aero & with Theo), but just want some customer experienced views.

I have what some may consider a large ratio between Chest and Waist.. this is great when on the beach but finding clothes has never been easy. I have 8 inch drop between chest relaxed and Waist at widest point.

My choice of Jacket from Aero is Premier 1930's Highwayman and I am wondering if anyone has any experience in whether my dimensions are likely to work with this jacket? Or has any points of advice for me for my dimensions, anything to watch out for?

Understand some jackets have limitations on adjustments to the base template and can't be tapered too much for example.

Aero recommended base size 44 if I don't want to layer and 46 if I want to layer with a sweater. I currently live in South USA so don't need to layer, but would be a nice option for the future.

My measurements taken over a T-shirt & waist measure is over Jeans & Belt.
Relaxed chest (P2P) - 44 inch
Waist at widest point - 36inch
Waist / Hip / Belt Line - 35.75inch

Also to note I have 17 inch Bicep, which can be an issue in slim fit clothing. I usually buy a Small in Tshirts and Shirts. Aero team are verifying the arm size will work.

Thank you for any input or advice on sizing / considerations to make.

Thank you

As you can see, I have around 8 inch drop from Pit to Waist. This means every Jacket OTR is boxy. And if it fits my waist, it's way too tight on the shoulders.

 

[MrProper]

Hello, I am a lurker who has finally made a commitment to getting a leather jacket. I will get one from both Thedi, and Aero! I will keep this thread to my Aero jacket. It seems Thedi will work around my specific dimensions to make the jacket work for me.

Firstly, this forum has been very useful for me, truly! Very good, informative, friendly forum. Thank you.

I need some help with sizing (yes I am in contact with the production teams from Aero & with Theo), but just want some customer experienced views.

I have what some may consider a large ratio between Chest and Waist.. this is great when on the beach but finding clothes has never been easy. I have 8 inch drop between chest relaxed and Waist at widest point.

My choice of Jacket from Aero is Premier 1930's Highwayman and I am wondering if anyone has any experience in whether my dimensions are likely to work with this jacket? Or has any points of advice for me for my dimensions, anything to watch out for?

Understand some jackets have limitations on adjustments to the base template and can't be tapered too much for example.

Aero recommended base size 44 if I don't want to layer and 46 if I want to layer with a sweater. I currently live in South USA so don't need to layer, but would be a nice option for the future.

My measurements taken over a T-shirt & waist measure is over Jeans & Belt.
Relaxed chest (P2P) - 44 inch
Waist at widest point - 36inch
Waist / Hip / Belt Line - 35.75inch

Also to note I have 17 inch Bicep, which can be an issue in slim fit clothing. I usually buy a Small in Tshirts and Shirts. Aero team are verifying the arm size will work.
View attachment 622218
Thank you for any input or advice on sizing / considerations to make.

Thank you

As you can see, I have around 8 inch drop from Pit to Waist. This means every Jacket OTR is boxy. And if it fits my waist, it's way too tight on the shoulders.

I think Aero tapers by a maximum of 4". But that's enough for me if I tighten the buckles a little. A little bit of room between the belt and jacket is ok. I also have quite a lot of drop and that fits all Aero jackets.

 

[BrownOT]

Thanks for the response, your jackets all look great and I actually based my ultimate decision on style and ideal fit on the jacket you posted on another thread (the 1st jacket you posted here). It fits exactly as I'd want mine!

Based on a 4" max taper - I'd be looking at gap of around 4" at the waist, does this sound like something that will still look good, will the buckle tightening fix this?

Of course I don' t need it to be skin tight but I'm mentally scarred from having so many boxy fit jackets that I can't ever imagine one fitting me well anymore!

 

[MrProper]

Thanks for the response, your jackets all look great and I actually based my ultimate decision on style and ideal fit on the jacket you posted on another thread (the 1st jacket you posted here). It fits exactly as I'd want mine!

Based on a 4" max taper - I'd be looking at gap of around 4" at the waist, does this sound like something that will still look good, will the buckle tightening fix this?

Of course I don' t need it to be skin tight but I'm mentally scarred from having so many boxy fit jackets that I can't ever imagine one fitting me well anymore!

I think it should fit.
I measured chest 43.75 relaxed and 36.6 above the belt. The Cordovan PHWM has P2P 23.7 and waistband 20"
19.25-19.5 is my ideal waist for tight fitting jackets. But as you can see, this half inch makes no difference.

 

[Bennarion]

BrownOT, in general, a jacket in size 44 may suit you, but pay attention to the sleeve, it is slim. It might be a little tight for your biceps.​

 

[MrProper]

BrownOT, in general, a jacket in size 44 may suit you, but pay attention to the sleeve, it is slim. It might be a little tight for your biceps.​

You're right. I haven't had anything done to my sleeves (except the length) and they are only about 42 cm around the upper arm. They are just about right for me, but shouldn't be any tighter.
I also have a size 44

 

[torfjord]

As I understand it the Premier highwayman is a boxy fit with slim sleeves? You will be better served by starting with a pattern that fits how you want it from the start rather than to try to transform a boxy pattern to something else.

 

[MrProper]

As I understand it the Premier highwayman is a boxy fit with slim sleeves? You will be better served by starting with a pattern that fits how you want it from the start rather than to try to transform a boxy pattern to something else.

• 1930s style

• Slimmer fit

• Slimed down sleeve

• ...

• Trimmed down waist

I think the PHWM is not inherently boxy. At least that is not clear from Aero's description.
The question is rather whether a Highwayman based on the Cafe Racer pattern would be better with such upper arms and the massive drop. Someone from the TFL once had a Sheene made with a waistband and it looked really good.

 

[Bennarion]

This jacket has a slim fit, I had it before

 

[Bennarion]

Also keep in mind the armhole of the sleeve is high. You need to discuss with Aero if this will suit your biceps.

 

[JMax]

What about a regular highwayman tapered down a size? Might not be slim fit but may work better on certain body measurements. Something to discuss with Aero.

 

[BrownOT]

• 1930s style

• Slimmer fit

• Slimed down sleeve

• ...

• Trimmed down waist

I think the PHWM is not inherently boxy. At least that is not clear from Aero's description.
The question is rather whether a Highwayman based on the Cafe Racer pattern would be better with such upper arms and the massive drop. Someone from the TFL once had a Sheene made with a waistband and it looked really good.

Very interesting about the circumference of the sleeve being 42cm. That would mean the sleeves would be too narrow around my upper arms. I'd need 45cm+ i'd imagine.

Aero are looking into it for me ( as well as arm hold position) and I expect a response soon. I wonder if there's any widening they can do to the upper arm.


Could you please explain on the point around using the Cafe Racer pattern on a highwayman? Is that almost a hybrid of the two?

Cafe Racer was my second choice but I do much prefer the aesthetics of the Premier 1930's Highwayman.

Ultimately my main priority is to get a style similar to the highwayman aesthetically, that can accommodate my dimensions without messing up the pattern or fit of jacket in someway.

Thanks for all the comments so far everyone!

 

[torfjord]

It would be a lot easier to start with a pattern that have the right proportions for your body and then add design element that you like. I.e. take the cafe racer pattern, add a collar and a waistband and a back yoke.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I agree that premier Highwayman has the nicest aesthetics out of all the Highwaymans. Or most of the bottom band western back yoke jackets out there. I have most of them and this is my opinion.

However, Aero sizing is an infamous unsolved mystery...

FWIW, I am also in the process of getting another premier highwayman. I had what was tagged 42 but measures like the 44 posted here and on the Japanese sites,

I am ordering a size 46 this second time, and shooting for measurements like below premier coat I had, just less length and more taper. I think the premier highwayman is drop 4 by design.

So neck hole 18.5"
Shoulder 19.5"
P2P 24"
Hem 22"
Arm hole straight across 11"

I think this is what Mr Proper jacket is, but his has more body taper, like drop 8. The sleeve sizing is critical on the premier jackets, too slim it feels very restrictive.

I will post more pics when I get the new build jacket. One other good thing about Aero is their turn around time compared to others, don't have to wait over a year. I have never hit a home run with Aero on the first attempt because of their sizing mystery. Most of the time it takes one failed try and then the second one... So I end up paying the Thurston price even though I buy it direct from them. Still the best deal around for Badalassi jackets though, and that's what I went for this time around.

Premier highwayman sizing chart on Japanese seller sites. Reference only, as the sizing mystery deepens...

 

[handymike]

You might be able to create a Sheene with some PHWYMN details.

 

[MrProper]

New jacket: Aero Sheene crossed with Aero Highwayman

I’ve always loved Aero’s Highwayman…the lower waistband and the side buckles make it such a timeless classic. But I’ve always been apprehensive about ordering the Highwayman because of that wider “boxy” fit wouldn't work for me. So my solution- start with the tighter streamlined Sheene, and then...

www.thefedoralounge.com

 

[BrownOT]

Holy smokes just had a look at the Sheene. Didn't realise that existed but had actually thought whether that fit existed.
I don't see that listed on their website, suppose it's a hybrid model that they don't officially make.

I just emailed them to enquire about the Sheene design. I am not going through Thurston, going directly to Aero.

Thanks Canuck for the context on the measure sizes of your existing Premier HWM, really does help to understand how the jacket measures up and I can compare that to some other jackets I have.
Looks like you're going from a 42 to size 46, quite a jump so I'm guessing the 42 was way too small for you!
Interested to see how your new one comes out.

The chest and shoulder sizes on the premier coat you posted looks a good fit for me, but it would need a significant taper to not drown my waist :/
I feel like a 20" hem is the max that would look ok for me given that my waist over belt is just over 35"

 

[photo2u]

I agree that premier Highwayman has the nicest aesthetics out of all the Highwaymans. Or most of the bottom band western back yoke jackets out there. I have most of them and this is my opinion.

However, Aero sizing is an infamous unsolved mystery...

FWIW, I am also in the process of getting another premier highwayman. I had what was tagged 42 but measures like the 44 posted here and on the Japanese sites,
View attachment 622381
View attachment 622382

I am ordering a size 46 this second time, and shooting for measurements like below premier coat I had, just less length and more taper. I think the premier highwayman is drop 4 by design.

View attachment 622383
View attachment 622384

So neck hole 18.5"
Shoulder 19.5"
P2P 24"
Hem 22"
Arm hole straight across 11"

I think this is what Mr Proper jacket is, but his has more body taper, like drop 8. The sleeve sizing is critical on the premier jackets, too slim it feels very restrictive.

I will post more pics when I get the new build jacket. One other good thing about Aero is their turn around time compared to others, don't have to wait over a year. I have never hit a home run with Aero on the first attempt because of their sizing mystery. Most of the time it takes one failed try and then the second one... So I end up paying the Thurston price even though I buy it direct from them. Still the best deal around for Badalassi jackets though, and that's what I went for this time around.

Premier highwayman sizing chart on Japanese seller sites. Reference only, as the sizing mystery deepens...
View attachment 622385

I think they missed a spot. LOL.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Holy smokes just had a look at the Sheene. Didn't realise that existed but had actually thought whether that fit existed.
I don't see that listed on their website, suppose it's a hybrid model that they don't officially make.

I just emailed them to enquire about the Sheene design. I am not going through Thurston, going directly to Aero.

Thanks Canuck for the context on the measure sizes of your existing Premier HWM, really does help to understand how the jacket measures up and I can compare that to some other jackets I have.
Looks like you're going from a 42 to size 46, quite a jump so I'm guessing the 42 was way too small for you!
Interested to see how your new one comes out.

The chest and shoulder sizes on the premier coat you posted looks a good fit for me, but it would need a significant taper to not drown my waist :/
I feel like a 20" hem is the max that would look ok for me given that my waist over belt is just over 35"

I got some dimensions info back from Holly, premier size 46 Highwayman has the dims of:
Pit to Pit 24.5”

Shoulders 19.25”

Hem 23”

Sleeve 26.75”

Back 26.75”



The wide hem is not gonna work for me, and Holly did mention these are cut very different than my 50s Highwayman. So for the time being I switched my order to a military jacket that I had on my list for a while.

I would still like to tackle the premier look highwayman though, just not now as it would probably have to be a very customized version of the 50s highwayman pattern, with the 30s highwayman sleeve cuffs but 50s highwayman sized sleeves and hole size, not sure if that is possible at all, so back to the drawing board it goes...

I've got the regular 50s highwayman in size 40 (24" P2P 22" hem) plus 1" length, and the Sheene-wayman in size 42 (23.25" P2P 20.25" hem). Personally I believe for athletic shaped guys, a tapered 50s highwayman will still yield the best result, but it still doesn't have the 30s highwayman details like the cuffs and the slight front dip and the curved back yoke....