Aero Sheene made of unfinished horsehide

[JCSD]

After seeing how the Mister Freedom natural campus jacket developed, I thought to myself that at some point I would need a jacket made of natural leather.
At first I thought of a trucker made of natural CXL, but Aero told me the skins are too thick for a trucker.
So natural Vicenza. But then the trucker looked too much like a Western jacket, since the natural Vicenza is rather yellow.
And since I wanted a replacement for my Cafe Racer anyway, it should be a Sheene in natural Vicenza.
But then I stumbled across the unfinished HH and then the decision was clear. This is what I want.

I placed the order in mid-December and it was delivered today. So it took a little more than 3 months.
During this time I tormented Holly and Denny about the material, details and the right size, but I always met with a lot of patience. Thanks a lot for this

Since my old Cafe Racer was way too big but too short, it was clear that the new jacket would have to be at least two sizes smaller and slightly longer.
Ultimately, it became a size 42, with longer body and sleeves, as well as tighter at the waist. The dimensions are not 100% the ones I specified, which is also rather difficult with Aero, as they don't offer tailor-made jackets, but only modifications based on standard sizes. An inch less P2P would have been nice.

The unfinished HH is awesome. Relatively stiff, stiffer than the Vicenza, and feels velvety. Almost a bit like nubuck leather. The smell is great too. Similar to Vicenza, but a bit leatherier (if that makes any sense).
The color is cream, but not as yellow as the natural Vicenza. Even if it didn't get darker, it would be a cool color for summer.

Speaking of summer ... I want this jacket for summer. Therefore also light, thinner leather and a normal cotton drill. This is thinner than the heavy cotton I usually have. I also really wanted to have this color (mustard), which is not available as heavy cotton.
Hardware I used antique brass to have a bit of a contrast to the light leather.

So far everything is good. I just don't find the stiching so intoxicating. Either it's just like that with the leather, or the seam is too tight for this type of leather. The seams definitely look better on my Ridley made of Vicenza leather. But I think that once the color has developed, it won't be so noticeable.

I have to measure the dimensions exactly, but it's something like this:
Shoulders: 19.5"
P2P: 24"
Hem: 20"

I'm 6.5 tall, 198.5 lbs.

In any case, I'm curious to see how the jacket will develop and will post pictures of the progress here from time to time.

View attachment 320359 View attachment 320360 View attachment 320362 View attachment 320363 View attachment 320364 View attachment 320365 View attachment 320366 View attachment 320367 View attachment 320368 View attachment 320369

Great hide choice that’ll begin to tell it’s story from day one. And great fit as always. Bravo!

 

[Jin431]

soon you'll have a case of pale underarm, and have to find a creative way to tan that part to catchup with the rest, and then there is pale shoulder gusset case (this case is though to break and still unsolved in my department)

I remember the upside down treatment you did lol maybe some leather lotions for the inside of the shoulder gusset?

 

[navetsea]

I remember the upside down treatment you did lol maybe some leather lotions for the inside of the shoulder gusset?

in a hindsight if I go with nat leather again I would skip any gusset, straps, and pocket flaps. but it would be interesting to show tan lined jacket too to compare the stage of the browning with some parts that is covered or see less sun, Mr. Proper take a bold choice to place his first shoulder gusset on, I hope you are "zen" with the tan lines

 

[nickv]

Looks good to me . Fits you well. You seem to have the size ordering down to a fine art. A very nice addition to your fine collection of jackets.

 

[Jin431]

in a hindsight if I go with nat leather again I would skip any gusset, straps, and pocket flaps. but it would be interesting to show tan lined jacket too to compare the stage of the browning with some parts that is covered or see less sun, Mr. Proper take a bold choice to place his first shoulder gusset on, I hope you are "zen" with the tan lines

Smart and very thoughtful of you sharing that bit of info. I'm sure someone here will read that and take that tip intonaccount although I'm sure the uneven darkening of the leather is desirable to some.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Fits very nice. I am very interested to see how that leather develops.

 

[MrProper]

First of all, thank you very much for all your answers and kind words, I appreciate that.

I’m not familiar with this leather—do you know where Aero sources it? The leather in mine is also quite stiff, dense too.

If I’m not mistaken this is veg tanned unfinished horsehide (not CXL) from the Comipel tannery in Italy. I had a highwayman in this leather that was made as part of a collaboration between Epaulet and Aero.

As El Marro wrote this, I also think that this is the same leather that Epaulet offers. I cannot imagine that two almost identical leathers are kept in stock.
I quote Epaulet's description: "This gorgeous and supple leather is one of the premier skins offered by Comipel - one of the finest leather houses in the world. As a Front Quarter Horsehide, its sourced from the most desirable and consistent section of the animal. The skins are vegetable tanned in drums for five weeks and lightly oiled. The final product has all the natural markings and grain of the original skin."

Once again - this jacket looks amazing and suits (perfect contrast to your rather dark tan) and fits you perfectly. It’s definitely not noticeable (for me) that one inch less would have fitted you better in the chest area. Now, you made me wanting another Aero made of this fantastic looking leather!! Congratulations!

Many Thanks
Yeah, probably you're right about that inch. More noticeable on the back than from the front. But if the leather is broken in, it will be fine.
I haven't had any experience with this leather, but the way it feels and looks, everyone needs a jacket made of this leather lol

It looks very different from "natural" CXL, which, I thought, was undyed, hence "natural" colored leather.

I haven't previously heard of this "unfinished" CXL, which is clearly something other than what Aero and Thurston have been selling as "natural CXL".

So I'm very curious now, what is the difference between "natural" and "unfinished" in terms of process? How differently will they age?

Looks great. Can you elaborate on the weight and grade of the horsehide? As Guppy asked - how is "unfinished" different from "natural"? Did the hide come from Aero or you? Which tannery?

I think there is no surface treatment after tanning. So neither paint, oil, wax or any other coating. It seems like it has been sanded a little, but maybe it's natural. It feels a little like my chamois tanned leather pants.
"Natural" just doesn't seem dyed to me, but otherwise treated like colored leather. But I suspect that and don't really know.
Apparently the tannery is Comipel

Thanks for posting your new Sheene. Likewise, I've been looking for a natural leather for a new Sheene. I was originally considering the natural Vic, but the Vic just lacks the depth of the natural CXL. And the CXL is too thick for this climate...(Too bad Aero doesn't offer deerhide, or elk. Or Kudu.)
So I was happy to read about a new "unfinished" option. It will be interesting to see how it ages- really looking forward to seeing some updated fit photos!

These were also my concerns about CXL and Vicenza. Thank you for the confirmation ;-)

My Aero WayFarer in unfinished leather. Pics taken last year, 12 months on from buying it. Soaked and hung out in the sun for a week: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-wayfarer-raw-horsehide-pic-heavy.97041/page-4

Your post was responsible for my decision about this leather. Thanks a lot for this.

Great review and thanks for starting a thread so we can see the progress and patina down the road. This fits Great on you, it's not as slim in the chest as you wanted but it's still trim.

Yeah, probably you're right about that inch ;-)

soon you'll have a case of pale underarm, and have to find a creative way to tan that part to catchup with the rest, and then there is pale shoulder gusset case (this case is though to break and still unsolved in my department)

in a hindsight if I go with nat leather again I would skip any gusset, straps, and pocket flaps. but it would be interesting to show tan lined jacket too to compare the stage of the browning with some parts that is covered or see less sun, Mr. Proper take a bold choice to place his first shoulder gusset on, I hope you are "zen" with the tan lines

I thought about the gussets ... but too late lol
Today I would order this leather without gussets. Actually, I plan to just wear the jacket and see how it develops. If it gets too unequal, I might have to help a little. but I'll see that then.

 

[navetsea]

I remember the upside down treatment you did lol maybe some leather lotions for the inside of the shoulder gusset?

In my case the difference in tan is too big to bridge, tried oiling it several time, but i have come to accept it nothing can be done, in MrProper's case since the whole jacket is still pale, maybe oiling that part to lessen the contrast from start probably might work.

But there is also the fun of just wear and roll with it wherever it may go and see it as a project, it will honestly tan where it tans and less where it is covered it will never tan uniformly everywhere and there would be stain and tanned part that is scratched to reveal pale undertone again, the whole purpose of using this hide rather than just go with tan or brown jacket from start right just enjoy the ride wont be too different than nat belt or wallet.

 

[MrProper]

Despite the medium-weight leather, it is stiff enough that the jacket stands on its own.
And a picture of the cotton drill (not heavy)

 

[ton312]

Fit is superb! That’s a given at this point with your jackets. I would proceed with caution as far as aging/tanning the hide goes. I’ve seen some examples that look great where others end up looking like rotting vegetables. I wouldn’t use any oil on it. Let it age in the sun and avoid getting it dirty.

 

[MrProper]

I wouldn’t use any oil on it. Let it age in the sun and avoid getting it dirty.

Many thanks.
That would be exactly the plan: D
Just dusting it with water is something I'm considering.

 

[Carlos840]

Many thanks.
That would be exactly the plan: D
Just dusting it with water is something I'm considering.

It looks great, but water will make it look even better.
I think that with a jacket like this you need to commit from the start and not care about stains etc.
Just wear the crap out of it.
If it was mine i would be impatiently waiting for the first downpour...

 

[sweetfights]

After seeing how the Mister Freedom natural campus jacket developed, I thought to myself that at some point I would need a jacket made of natural leather.
At first I thought of a trucker made of natural CXL, but Aero told me the skins are too thick for a trucker.
So natural Vicenza. But then the trucker looked too much like a Western jacket, since the natural Vicenza is rather yellow.
And since I wanted a replacement for my Cafe Racer anyway, it should be a Sheene in natural Vicenza.
But then I stumbled across the unfinished HH and then the decision was clear. This is what I want.

I placed the order in mid-December and it was delivered today. So it took a little more than 3 months.
During this time I tormented Holly and Denny about the material, details and the right size, but I always met with a lot of patience. Thanks a lot for this

Since my old Cafe Racer was way too big but too short, it was clear that the new jacket would have to be at least two sizes smaller and slightly longer.
Ultimately, it became a size 42, with longer body and sleeves, as well as tighter at the waist. The dimensions are not 100% the ones I specified, which is also rather difficult with Aero, as they don't offer tailor-made jackets, but only modifications based on standard sizes. An inch less P2P would have been nice.

The unfinished HH is awesome. Relatively stiff, stiffer than the Vicenza, and feels velvety. Almost a bit like nubuck leather. The smell is great too. Similar to Vicenza, but a bit leatherier (if that makes any sense).
The color is cream, but not as yellow as the natural Vicenza. Even if it didn't get darker, it would be a cool color for summer.

Speaking of summer ... I want this jacket for summer. Therefore also light, thinner leather and a normal cotton drill. This is thinner than the heavy cotton I usually have. I also really wanted to have this color (mustard), which is not available as heavy cotton.
Hardware I used antique brass to have a bit of a contrast to the light leather.

So far everything is good. I just don't find the stiching so intoxicating. Either it's just like that with the leather, or the seam is too tight for this type of leather. The seams definitely look better on my Ridley made of Vicenza leather. But I think that once the color has developed, it won't be so noticeable.

I have to measure the dimensions exactly, but it's something like this:
Shoulders: 19.5"
P2P: 24"
Hem: 20"

I'm 6.5 tall, 198.5 lbs.

In any case, I'm curious to see how the jacket will develop and will post pictures of the progress here from time to time.

View attachment 320359 View attachment 320360 View attachment 320362 View attachment 320363 View attachment 320364 View attachment 320365 View attachment 320366 View attachment 320367 View attachment 320368 View attachment 320369

Splendid looking jacket on you. Will only get better looking with wear/age!
Congrats- great fit.

 

[sweetfights]

I had this Comipel leather when I had Aero make me a half belt. Just lovely leather in every category. Great smell, fantastic luxurious feel. A top end leather.
Enjoy.

 

[MrProper]

I had this Comipel leather when I had Aero make me a half belt. Just lovely leather in every category. Great smell, fantastic luxurious feel. A top end leather.
Enjoy.

Many thanks. I do

 

[Jasonindenver]

I really like the stitching choice. It goes very well with the jacket and should age well with the leather.

 

[jonbuilder]

The unfinished HH is awesome.

Is this natural HH dyed? I think it must be to get such an even color I have noticed any horse this color? What I think is the natural hide is finished just finish in a manner that allows the finished hide to darken. Maybe it's bleached?

 

[jonbuilder]

MrProper I have to say you have your sizing down with Aero Cangraulation with your Sheen

 

[MrProper]

Is this natural HH dyed? I think it must be to get such an even color I have noticed any horse this color? What I think is the natural hide is finished just finish in a manner that allows the finished hide to darken. Maybe it's bleached?

I honestly have no idea. Until yesterday I had only seen pictures of this leather and thought I would take a chance. I would have assumed that the leather was simply tanned and then not treated any further. But I'll ask Aero if they have more information about it.

 

[handymike]

Great looking jacket. Like others, I’m very interested to see how the hide develops. Congratulations on another win!