<<< Aero Premier Half Belt vs Hercules

[Brandrea33]

Good morning,

I’d like to know if anyone can comment on how these two jackets differ in terms of fit. I know it varies depending on the wearer body size etc etc.

For reference, I’m 6’2” and weigh 175 lbs. my measurements are 41-42 chest, 33” waist.

I realize what I'm asking is highly subjective. I guess I’m simply looking for an easy wearing jacket that I can layer a medium weight sweater under on cooler days, but I don’t want anything that looks oversized (if that make sense).

Last, does anyone know of a leather that Aero offers that would be similar to oil tanned Shinki HH? I’m not. A fan of “teacore”.

Thanks all!

 

[Cornelius]

I can't help you here, but am also curious as to the answer as it sounds like we have nearly the same measurements (more of a 40L suitcoat here, but same waist, height, & weight) and I'm looking for a similar fit in a jacket - good to wear with just a shirt but able to comfortable fit a light sweater if need be.

 

[Jasonindenver]

Hey Brian:

I am waiting on a Aero Seven which is also a premier pattern so I think you will need to size up at least one from your normal measurements on the Premier Half Belt. I wear a 42 tailored fit and ended up with a 44.

IIRC, Jin431 might be a good resource for the information you want. Specifically, can the premier armholes accommodate sweaters.

Also, consider calling Carrie at Thurston. Based on your Himel measurements, she may be able to tell you the best option.

 

[Brandrea33]

Hey Brian:

I am waiting on a Aero Seven which is also a premier pattern so I think you will need to size up at least one from your normal measurements on the Premier Half Belt. I wear a 42 tailored fit and ended up with a 44.

IIRC, Jin431 might be a good resource for the information you want. Specifically, can the premier armholes accommodate sweaters.

Also, consider calling Carrie at Thurston. Based on your Himel measurements, she may be able to tell you the best option.

Thanks for this Jason, appreciate the feedback. I’ve been in touch with Carrie, she’s been very helpful!

 

[AerGuitar]

Hey Brian:

I am waiting on a Aero Seven which is also a premier pattern so I think you will need to size up at least one from your normal measurements on the Premier Half Belt. I wear a 42 tailored fit and ended up with a 44.

IIRC, Jin431 might be a good resource for the information you want. Specifically, can the premier armholes accommodate sweaters.

Also, consider calling Carrie at Thurston. Based on your Himel measurements, she may be able to tell you the best option.

I don’t have experience with either of the two jackets that the OP mentioned, but I can speak to the fact that the premier line of jackets do seem to run pretty slim. I am a 38 suit jacket, I’m a 38 in a Board Racer (which is also slim, a Seven is based on the BR), but I like a very slim fit. I recently received a premier highwayman in a size 38, and I probably should have gone with a 40 for a more comfy chest and shoulder, although I’m fine with fighting it a bit until the hide gets broken in better, it’s definitely livable as is. I did try a size 42 in the same jacket and I felt like I was swimming in it. So I guess my point is, you may try to one size up on a premier, but two sizes is probably too much. I’m also very curious about an original Hercules for cool weather, sweater jacket..

 

[AerGuitar]

Also, the arm holes of my premier HM are very slim..

 

[Seb Lucas]

I am exactly your size but 10 pounds heavier. I spoke with Thurston on this some time back. I am a 46 in a Premier. I'm a 44 in a Herc and a halfbelt. I have a 1930's half-belt with a 26.5 inch back 26 inch sleeves and 23.5 inch pit to pit. I can fit a sweater underneath but don't often need one. If you like em trim and you are 10 pounds lighter than me I suspect you would like a 40/42 Herc and a 44 Premier.

 

[Tom71]

I have/had quite a few jackets in the premier range, but I am hesitant to make general comments.

Usually, my "ideal" jacket would have the following approx measurements:

- P2P: 23,5"
- Shoulder: 18,5"
- Sleeves: 26"
- Back: 25-26" (depending on cut of the jacket; I would want the belt to be largely covered but not more)

My take on the situation with various Aero jackets is broadly:

1930s ("regular" Halfbelt): size 42
Premier Halfbelt: size 44. This would still be a comfortable jacket, without issues with layering
Premier HWM: size 44. In total I had three of them; all where cut differently with one retaining the pronounced boxy shape of the regular HWM. All in all, I can still layer at least a sweater under them, although the armholes are rather high.
Board Racer: size 44. A very trim fit. Layering very difficult, due to the armholes and the very narrow shoulder area.

I do also have a Bootlegger in what Thurston calles the "Super Trim Fit". Size 44 fits me well, but I can still layer without any issue. Maybe one has to bear in mind that the regular BL (which I have no esperinece with) runs rather large, so I would probably have to go down to a 40 with it.

No experienece with the Herc. Sorry!

Hope this is helpful.

 

[Brandrea33]

I am exactly your size but 10 pounds heavier. I spoke with Thurston on this some time back. I am a 46 in a Premier. I'm a 44 in a Herc and a halfbelt. I have a 1930's half-belt with a 26.5 inch back 26 inch sleeves and 23.5 inch pit to pit. I can fit a sweater underneath but don't often need one. If you like em trim and you are 10 pounds lighter than me I suspect you would like a 40/42 Herc and a 44 Premier.

Thank you for this, most helpful! I think I’ll start with a fit jacket 44 in the Hercules.

Now here’s another question ... what hide would be similar to oil tanned Shinki?

I’m only interested in black and unfortunately they don’t offer Badalassi, Bainbridge or Vancouver in black. I guess this leaves vincenza black ... but I’ve heard mixed reviews on it.

 

[Brandrea33]

I have/had quite a few jackets in the premier range, but I am hesitant to make general comments.

Usually, my "ideal" jacket would have the following approx measurements:

- P2P: 23,5"
- Shoulder: 18,5"
- Sleeves: 26"
- Back: 25-26" (depending on cut of the jacket; I would want the belt to be largely covered but not more)

My take on the situation with various Aero jackets is broadly:

1930s ("regular" Halfbelt): size 42
Premier Halfbelt: size 44. This would still be a comfortable jacket, without issues with layering
Premier HWM: size 44. In total I had three of them; all where cut differently with one retaining the pronounced boxy shape of the regular HWM. All in all, I can still layer at least a sweater under them, although the armholes are rather high.
Board Racer: size 44. A very trim fit. Layering very difficult, due to the armholes and the very narrow shoulder area.

I do also have a Bootlegger in what Thurston calles the "Super Trim Fit". Size 44 fits me well, but I can still layer without any issue. Maybe one has to bear in mind that the regular BL (which I have no esperinece with) runs rather large, so I would probably have to go down to a 40 with it.

No experienece with the Herc. Sorry!

Hope this is helpful.

Thanks very much for this detail. I’m pretty sure we are very similar in size, so it sounds like a 44 premier highwayman would be the right place to start if I decide to go with that model.
The Hercules sounds like it might be a bit more forgiving for laying though .... just a guess.

 

[nick123]

The black Vicenza is seldom discussed, but I thought it was a really great looking leather.

 

[Tom71]

Thanks very much for this detail. I’m pretty sure we are very similar in size, so it sounds like a 44 premier highwayman would be the right place to start if I decide to go with that model.
The Hercules sounds like it might be a bit more forgiving for laying though .... just a guess.

Yes, I am sure a 44 would fit for you chest/shoulder wise. Sleeves and Back can always be tweaked...

By what I can see on Aero´s webpage, The Hercules seems to be based off the 50´s HB. That indeed would be a rather generous cut.
As I sidenote, I have personally more than once considered an "Original Hercules". You don´t see it in the flesh too often (Robbie has one), but I find it highly attractive for its totally pure and simplistic design. I am actually currently waiting for some leather-samples from Holly...

 

[Brandrea33]

Yes, I am sure a 44 would fit for you chest/shoulder wise. Sleeves and Back can always be tweaked...

By what I can see on Aero´s webpage, The Hercules seems to be based off the 50´s HB. That indeed would be a rather generous cut.
As I sidenote, I have personally more than once considered an "Original Hercules". You don´t see it in the flesh too often (Robbie has one), but I find it highly attractive for its totally pure and simplistic design. I am actually currently waiting for some leather-samples from Holly...

Yes, I think based on what you have said about the Premier Highwayman, I might be getting into Imperial territory (with slightly too neat a fit). The ‘original Hercules’ appears to be somewhere between a generous cut and a slim cut (premier...?)

I’m interested to see what you have in the works with Aero, and what hide you decide on.

 

[Tom71]

Yes, I think based on what you have said about the Premier Highwayman, I might be getting into Imperial territory (with slightly too neat a fit). The ‘original Hercules’ appears to be somewhere between a generous cut and a slim cut (premier...?)

I’m interested to see what you have in the works with Aero, and what hide you decide on.

The way I understand the general fit to work is:

- 50s style: boxy, generous cuts with low armholes
- 30s style: slimmed down with higher armholes
- Premier Pattern: modern, slim silhoutte, high armholes.

I get the impression, some prefer the moderate 30s (or even 50s) style and achieve a neat look by ordering a pronounced taper from chest to waist.
Based on the above, I too believe the "Original Herc" is a moderately slim fit.

 

[Brandrea33]

The way I understand the general fit to work is:

- 50s style: boxy, generous cuts with low armholes
- 30s style: slimmed down with higher armholes
- Premier Pattern: modern, slim silhoutte, high armholes.

I get the impression, some prefer the moderate 30s (or even 50s) style and achieve a neat look by ordering a pronounced taper from chest to waist.
Based on the above, I too believe the "Original Herc" is a moderately slim fit.

This is great information for folks like me who are new to this.
I’ve taken a screen shot of this post