Aero options balancing strong grain and good longevity

[l'oreille]

Hello all,

Been a couple of years since I posted here. I "settled in" over the years with four Aero jackets and haven't found a need for a new one in a long time - until now, that is.

I currently own a brown FQHH CXL 30s HB, a black FQHH CXL Highwayman, a jerky hooch hauler, and a vicenza A2. I used to own a Bootlegger and a Long Half Belt (LHB), both of which I traded in over the years for some of the other jackets I now own.

As I miss having a long leather jacket, I started looking at my options again. In Europe, the options are pretty limited these days - and while I'm really not looking forward to dealing with the import hassle post-Brexit, Aero has always been a pleasure to deal with, and I have had nothing but good experiences with their jackets.

So either a new LHB or something like the Cheyenne seems an obvious path forward.

Here's my conundrum however: I adore those heavily grained, chrome tanned steer and horse jackets regularly being posted over in the vintage outerwear thread (https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vintage-outerwear-threads-of-the-past.102621/). So my first thought was to go for CXL, probably steer (as it seems to get even grainier). My vicenza A2 just doesn't show much grain despite years of wear, and the jerky russet still seems a little "flat", lacking the gnarly grain and colour depth I've seen on real vintage pieces.

However, I've handled so, so much CXL (both jackets and boots) over the years (especially thrifting in Japan), and I've noticed how it sometimes just straight up falls apart after some time. CXL appears to look great and healthy - until it doesn't, and the leather just crumples. I'm not talking about surface cracking: I remember handling a lovely black CXL 30s HB in Tokyo where the top of the sleeves (right at the upper arm) had holes in them, with leather fibers just spilling out - almost like wool that is moth bitten. It didn't look like a motorcycle spill either: the leather was dry and felt like a piece of crumpled paper.

I have no idea why CXL does this after a long time, but I've seen it often enough to be terrified of it happening.

So if someone was to ask you, out of all of the leathers currently offered by Aero, which leather will best approximate those grainy 30's, 40's and 50's halfbelts in the vintage outerwear thread, while also standing a good chance of lasting another 30 years - what would your suggestion be?

Thanks in advance for comments, much appreciated.

 

[TartuWolf]

I've also seen some nasty CXL while browsing JP auctions. Would be curious to hear members thoughts about it. It is a leather that is inherently more prone to this rot-type damage as it ages?

 

[MickeyPunch]

CXL is stuffed with oils, maybe that’s why but I’ve no idea, never handled CXL as I don’t like its stiffness. Maybe some day in a pair of boots or a bag.

I’m happy with Badalassi steerhide so far if you can get over its squeakiness, but I’ve no idea about its longevity.

 

[Daniel Veit]

What about goat? It's tough as nails, as many vintage pieces show (I don't own any myself) and has a certain grain to it.

 

[l'oreille]

What about goat? It's tough as nails, as many vintage pieces show (I don't own any myself) and has a certain grain to it.

I've considered it! Unfortunately, the pebbled look seems to prevent that heavy grain from ever setting in. I've seen some lovely goat (and have worn some way back when), and it certain would outlive me - but when I say heavy grain, I mean something like this:

I've never seen anything but steer and horse get that "tactile" level of graininess to it.

 

[Aloysius]

Aero's Jerky feels a lot like vintage horsehide in temper and weight. You can get it in a high-grain option.

 

[Zoro]

It is possible you've gone through this, but here's my question: Are we perhaps going off survivor bias? Do you see other kinds of leathers from that age reliably showing up in better shape than CXL? Also, can it be simply that the previous owner(s) took terrible care of them?

 

[Marc mndt]

It is possible you've gone through this, but here's my question: Are we perhaps going off survivor bias? Do you see other kinds of leathers from that age reliably showing up in better shape than CXL? Also, can it be simply that the previous owner(s) took terrible care of them?

I've handled a lot of vintage jackets of various conditions, some leathers withstand the test of time better than others. Capeskin / sheepskin / lambskin is the most delicate. Goatskin is tough as nails. Chrome tanned Horsehide or steerhide from the mid 50s or earlier is very durable, when dried out it can be brought back to life using some product. Vegetable tanned leather is prone to get 'burn damage' which happens when the wet leather dries under the hot sun.

The topcoat of some (not all) 60s steerhide tends to crack and flake, damage that's irreversible, no conditioner can fix that. Same holds for CXL imo, but instead of flaking it crumples apart.

This CXL jacket is about 20 years old. It doesn't really show in the photo but the leather started to crumple in certain areas. Applying conditioner made it worse.

 

[l'oreille]

I've handled a lot of vintage jackets of various conditions, some leathers withstand the test of time better than others. Capeskin / sheepskin / lambskin is the most delicate. Goatskin is tough as nails. Horsehide or steerhide from the mid 50s or earlier is very durable, when dried out it can be brought back to life using some product. The topcoat of 60s steerhide tends to crack and flake, damage that's irreversible, no conditioner can fix that. Same holds for CXL imo, but instead of flaking it crumples apart.

This CXL jacket is about 20 years old. It doesn't really show in the photo but the leather started to crumple in certain areas. Applying conditioner made it worse.

View attachment 660563

I’m glad someone else has the same experience with CXL! I always see it touted as a durable leather, but that just doesn’t match my experience in real life. And you’re right, it’s exactly that sort of papery crumbling that sets in after 10+ years that worries me.

Do you have any experience with Aero’s offerings and thoughts on what would come closest to that mythical 50s horse that we’re all chasing?

 

[Zoro]

Thanks @Marc mndt for such a detailed explanation! Got a follow up question: Do you think that you would had been able to save that 20yo CXL jacket if you had acted sooner on it (unsure if you bought it new or if you bought it used)? Or do you think it would had been doomed no matter what after such long time?

 

[Marc mndt]

Personally I wouldn't worry too much about the durability of Aero's leathers. You'd have to wear your jacket regularly for about two decades before you might see decay like this.

what would come closest to that mythical 50s horse that we’re all chasing?

Those leathers can't be replicated because back in the days they used harmful chemicals like mercury when tanning the hides. That's not allowed anymore and for good reason.

Do you think that you would had been able to save that 20yo CXL jacket if you had acted sooner on it (unsure if you bought it new or if you bought it used)? Or do you think it would had been doomed no matter what after such long time?

I bought this jacket used and sold it quickly after, I hate CXL as a leather for jackets.

I don't think there's any way to really condition CXL. Last week I applied shoe cream on a pair of CXL boots, the leather didn't absorb the cream at all.

 

[Monitor]

However, I've handled so, so much CXL (both jackets and boots) over the years (especially thrifting in Japan), and I've noticed how it sometimes just straight up falls apart after some time...

The primary reason for this is climate, not tanning. Japan with its subtropical (and tropical) climate isn't healthy for leather so humidity and salt is what is destroying those jackets, not the way they were tanned.

Horween's Chromexcel tanning method is, in general, very durable but it is also very susceptible to climate due several reasons I won't get into right now. But Aero's jackets that stayed in the UK, especially Scotland, never display this kind of degradation.

If you're living in a country with a mild climate, you have nothing to worry about. If not, some other leather might be a better choice.

 

[Aloysius]

I don't think there's any way to really condition CXL. Last week I applied shoe cream on a pair of CXL boots, the leather didn't absorb the cream at all.

You want Saphir's Crème Cuir Gras, which I believe is now called Oiled Leather/Cuirs Gras.

 

[Biff42]

I've considered it! Unfortunately, the pebbled look seems to prevent that heavy grain from ever setting in. I've seen some lovely goat (and have worn some way back when), and it certain would outlive me - but when I say heavy grain, I mean something like this:

I've never seen anything but steer and horse get that "tactile" level of graininess to it.

I'll take the heavy grain any day.

 

[Marc mndt]

You want Saphir's Crème Cuir Gras, which I believe is now called Oiled Leather/Cuirs Gras.

Good one, I used regular Saphir shoe cream.

 

[TartuWolf]

You want Saphir's Crème Cuir Gras, which I believe is now called Oiled Leather/Cuirs Gras.

Can you expand on that? What makes this especially suitable for CXL?

 

[Aloysius]

Good one, I used regular Saphir shoe cream.

I went with the uncoloured one because when I bought it years ago I was caught up in the patina nonsense but once this bottle finally runs out, I'll switch it for the brown; I expect it'll still reflect the patina while restoring colour where it's faded.

 

[Aloysius]

Can you expand on that? What makes this especially suitable for CXL?

The name itself should make it clear. It's a conditioner for hot-stuffed/oiled leathers like CXL

 

[Zoro]

Can you expand on that? What makes this especially suitable for CXL?

You've got answered already, but I will just add that I recall (from when I was researching boots) that Horween actually recommended Saphir or Venetian Shoe Cream (which is very hard, if not impossible, to find in Europe).

 

[TartuWolf]

You've got answered already, but I will just add that I recall (from when I was researching boots) that Horween actually recommended Saphir or Venetian Shoe Cream (which is very hard, if not impossible, to find in Europe).

Dunno about Venetian, but Saphir is very easy to find in Europe. Even found a dealer in Estonia! As I'll be getting a pair of CXL boots soon to match my CXL jacket I might grab some of this "Crème Cuir Gras" stuff.