onstar
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Does anyone know what the measurements for Aero Maxwell size 40, 42 and 44 are? In shoulder, chest and pit to pit?
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Aero Maxwell size 40, 42 and 44
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AeroFan_07
I'll Lock Up
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I would reach out to Carrie at Thurston Brothers, she will help you get one dialed in!
Canuck Panda
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Stock size 42 FQHH measure pics attached.
I have recently formulated a new conspiracy theory about Aero sizing. Don't shoot me, just for fun, hence the conspiracy theory title.
My conspiracy theory is that, When I ordered a size 42, and if their cutter/fitter thinks it's one size too big or one size too small for me, then they will use the size 42 tag but give me the one bigger or one smaller size that they think will fit me better based on the body measurements I gave them.
After all, each size only change 1" increments (2" in circ), that is not a lot. Shoulders width only increase at 1/2" increment per size.
This is why I think there is the 1/2" tolerance disclaimer (1" circ), it helps to grey area things up. When in actual fact, they're quite precise with their cutting and sewing. I have also found that I can get two very different measurements if I just used a hard ruler or a soft tape, but it's still the same jacket, measure by me the same person.
The most conspiracy thing is that every custom maker tends to do this.
The real one off custom jacket needs at least three things, the one off pattern in manila paper, then sew the pattern test in any type of fabric or leather, and then final jacket. If there are revisions, then repeat the whole process. If there is no evidence of any of these paper trails, then it's likely an OTR jacket with some custom lengths and pocket changes.
If you are thinking about the Maxwell, just do it. I haven't found an equal for this jacket yet. One of the most underrated Aero jackets imo. It's not tapered, but doesn't look boxy either. The only thing I would want to change is the neck opening. At least 2" bigger like the other American jackets. This menswear jacket doesn't need the trim neck lines of the riding jackets, bigger is more comfortable, or at least to the size of their 50s pattern, which would be one inch bigger than what it is now. The bigger neck line will make the back length look shorter on paper but it doesn't, just more neck line room at the back.
I have recently formulated a new conspiracy theory about Aero sizing. Don't shoot me, just for fun, hence the conspiracy theory title.
My conspiracy theory is that, When I ordered a size 42, and if their cutter/fitter thinks it's one size too big or one size too small for me, then they will use the size 42 tag but give me the one bigger or one smaller size that they think will fit me better based on the body measurements I gave them.
After all, each size only change 1" increments (2" in circ), that is not a lot. Shoulders width only increase at 1/2" increment per size.
This is why I think there is the 1/2" tolerance disclaimer (1" circ), it helps to grey area things up. When in actual fact, they're quite precise with their cutting and sewing. I have also found that I can get two very different measurements if I just used a hard ruler or a soft tape, but it's still the same jacket, measure by me the same person.
The most conspiracy thing is that every custom maker tends to do this.
The real one off custom jacket needs at least three things, the one off pattern in manila paper, then sew the pattern test in any type of fabric or leather, and then final jacket. If there are revisions, then repeat the whole process. If there is no evidence of any of these paper trails, then it's likely an OTR jacket with some custom lengths and pocket changes.
If you are thinking about the Maxwell, just do it. I haven't found an equal for this jacket yet. One of the most underrated Aero jackets imo. It's not tapered, but doesn't look boxy either. The only thing I would want to change is the neck opening. At least 2" bigger like the other American jackets. This menswear jacket doesn't need the trim neck lines of the riding jackets, bigger is more comfortable, or at least to the size of their 50s pattern, which would be one inch bigger than what it is now. The bigger neck line will make the back length look shorter on paper but it doesn't, just more neck line room at the back.
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The Maxwell is their best button cut. I have a Mariner that is slightly too tight, and had a Teamster that was a bit boxy. The Work Coat is a great fit, but I think that the Maxwell is a 'best overall' pattern and is an ideal length and style for almost all needs.
TartuWolf
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I know I asked about this before, but how would you compare the Maxwell with the Moonshiner?
Personally I would go for the Moonshiner over the Maxwell if I had the chance.
Mainly due to the higher arm holes, more taper and bi-swing back.
TartuWolf
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It's possible that the Moonshiner is preferable (I don't own one) and it seems to be one of the few "cross-button" jackets out there. Just based on what I've owned, I think the Maxwell is my all-round preferred buttoned jacket. Work Coat is a close second.
Edward
Bartender
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It looks to me very much like the original 30s Slim Halfbelt, except with a button front.
onstar
One of the Regulars
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high arm holes, do they really make a noticeable difference?
TartuWolf
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@onstar
Canuck Panda shared some nice info about that particular topic here : https://www.thefedoralounge.com/posts/3028861/
Moonshiner does not very high armholes, but higher than the Maxwell according to Aero.
Canuck Panda shared some nice info about that particular topic here : https://www.thefedoralounge.com/posts/3028861/
Moonshiner does not very high armholes, but higher than the Maxwell according to Aero.
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Canuck Panda
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The Moonshiner fits very similar to the Aero Cafe Racer, same trim shoulder neck line, same slim sleeves.
The Maxwell is somewhere in between the Hooch Hauler and the Moonshiner in terms of fit. Its body is like a downsized Highwayman torso (which is actually V shaped by the way) paired with tapered sleeves.
The Hooch Hauler and Moonshiner are at two different ends of the spectrum, the Maxwell is right in the middle. It is the one I would recommend as it will likely fit the most bodies most comfortably. The Hooch is gonna be a T shirt fit or Japanese fit. Some don't like it this slim. The Moonshiner is gonna be the Cafe Racer fit, some don't like the forward neck line. The Maxwell is balanced in between the other two.
The Maxwell is somewhere in between the Hooch Hauler and the Moonshiner in terms of fit. Its body is like a downsized Highwayman torso (which is actually V shaped by the way) paired with tapered sleeves.
The Hooch Hauler and Moonshiner are at two different ends of the spectrum, the Maxwell is right in the middle. It is the one I would recommend as it will likely fit the most bodies most comfortably. The Hooch is gonna be a T shirt fit or Japanese fit. Some don't like it this slim. The Moonshiner is gonna be the Cafe Racer fit, some don't like the forward neck line. The Maxwell is balanced in between the other two.
TartuWolf
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@Canuck Panda
Some of your quotes from our conversation about these two models:
"Imo the Hooch is the better pattern for daily wear. But I think the Moonshiner is more "period" correct. The Hooch has higher armholes than the Moonshiner. The Moonshiner has a tighter hem vs the Hooch. The Moonshiner has slightly lower armholes. Moonshiner has larger P2P. But in reality the biggest difference the two is really the hem width. The HH flares out a bit to the hourglass ") (" shape, while the Moonshiner kept the taper going and is very "V" shape.
The higher ones will result in smaller P2P measurements, and fit like a sleeved vest than a jacket. There will always be the feeling of something pressing against the arm pits, but this is how most suits are like to. It takes some getting used to and is the only way to get that slim fit. The lower the arm hole the easier to live with, but will also look less tailored. That's the trade off between the two."
So for me Hooch Hauler is Y with high armholes, slim throughout, less tapered. Moonshiner is more V with slightly lower but still high armholes, more tapered. I guess they both have pretty similar sleeves.
Can you elaborate on this? In what ways?
Some of your quotes from our conversation about these two models:
"Imo the Hooch is the better pattern for daily wear. But I think the Moonshiner is more "period" correct. The Hooch has higher armholes than the Moonshiner. The Moonshiner has a tighter hem vs the Hooch. The Moonshiner has slightly lower armholes. Moonshiner has larger P2P. But in reality the biggest difference the two is really the hem width. The HH flares out a bit to the hourglass ") (" shape, while the Moonshiner kept the taper going and is very "V" shape.
The higher ones will result in smaller P2P measurements, and fit like a sleeved vest than a jacket. There will always be the feeling of something pressing against the arm pits, but this is how most suits are like to. It takes some getting used to and is the only way to get that slim fit. The lower the arm hole the easier to live with, but will also look less tailored. That's the trade off between the two."
So for me Hooch Hauler is Y with high armholes, slim throughout, less tapered. Moonshiner is more V with slightly lower but still high armholes, more tapered. I guess they both have pretty similar sleeves.
Canuck Panda
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Right, so my words on Hooch Hauler was biased because I like Japanese jackets cutting at the moment. Many here don't seem to, and think they're too small. I've realized that. But if you don't mind the slimmer Japanese cutting, then the Hooch is the one to get. It has the slimmest sleeves and body and highest arm hole. The Hooch is basically a Japanese cutting jacket made in Scotland. STF fitting patterns.
The Moonshiner looks cool, but I can't recommend it as much because it fits very similar to the Cafe Racer. Many members have voiced their concerns about the comfort of this pattern. I personally don't have that much of an issue, but I can see its collar benefiting from being wider. I actually have plans to put bigger collars onto my Cafe Racers and Moonshiner, future projects. The Moonshiner has huge chest to waist drop than the other jackets, but this doesn't mean it will look V shaped. In fact, this will look relaxed at the chest and too tight at the waist. The chest circumference on my size 40 Moonshiner is 49"!!! That is 24.5" P2P! I had one with cotton lining before, and kept getting oversized vertical creases so I put in a firmer quilt lining on my current one to balance things out. And I've got plans to put a 20" collar on this jacket which has 18" collar now.
See pics below. Moonshiner on the bottom, then cafe racer, then Vanson B Wolverine. 18" dress collar, 18" mandarin collar, 20" mandarin collar, respectively. The bigger collar will eat into the back length from neck hole down but will be a more relaxing fit. I am not crouching down on a sport bike all the time, there is no need for the super trim collar for my case. I think people who wear the Cafe Racer casually can also benefit from a bigger collar as there is no wind issue in regular wear if the collar were enlarged. My Walter Dyer cafe racer has 22" mandarin collar...
While on the neck hole subject, the Maxwell will be close to the Highwayman in this aspect, very comfortable, relaxed.
In the pic below, it's the Highwayman on the bottom and the Cafe Racer on the top, the Maxwell will be similar to the Highwayman in the neck lines. I think the collar style that points up is more comfortable than the one that point forward.
The Maxwell, it's really jack of all trades. It has the nice comfortable neck line like the Hooch Hauler but the Maxwell jacket is bigger, not Japanese sized. Bigger sleeves that tapers from elbow down so its easy to wear and move around. There isn't a big drop from chest down to hem, but the back panel is a V shaped panel, and this is what actually gives the V shape. Come to think of it the Maxwell might be a half belted Highwayman one torso size down. Anyways, after wearing all of these jackets, my personal opinion is that Maxwell will fit the most people without complaints. I have a preference for Japanese slim fit right now, but once this phase blows over I may default back to the Maxwell/Highwayman cuttings, especially when the mercury drops. Maybe when I widen the collar on my Cafe Racer my favorites will change again. Don't know till I try it.
I will take some measure pics when I get home. Mainly the difference lies in the upper sleeve size. I will measure around it's more accurate that way. The more upper sleeve room I have at the armhole the more mobility I have.
Where is your Hooch Hauler?
Hide'n'seek
One of the Regulars
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To simplify things the Maxwell is just a button front 1930's Half Belt.
The Moonshiner is a button front Bootlegger (1950's cut) with a bi-swing back
The Moonshiner is a button front Bootlegger (1950's cut) with a bi-swing back
Canuck Panda
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10/10 for Maxwell
10/10 for Hooch Hauler
7/10 for Moonshiner
Maxwell on top, Moonshiner in the middle, Hooch on the bottom
Out of all my Aero jackets, I reach for the Maxwell and (regular) Highwayman more than any other jackets. Just personal opinion. I just can't complaint about these two.
Don't over think it. I am at fault for confusing with too much info. Just do it.
10/10 for Hooch Hauler
7/10 for Moonshiner
Maxwell on top, Moonshiner in the middle, Hooch on the bottom
Out of all my Aero jackets, I reach for the Maxwell and (regular) Highwayman more than any other jackets. Just personal opinion. I just can't complaint about these two.
Don't over think it. I am at fault for confusing with too much info. Just do it.
morrison2951
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The Maxwell is strong in my collection as well.
Sweet jacket.
Sweet jacket.
@TartuWolf I think this is the most straightforward explanation. I would go with this over the over-complicated theories us TFLers often get sucked into (myself included).
onstar
One of the Regulars
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Out of the 3, which has the most range of motion for the shoulder?
TartuWolf
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@Canuck Panda @Hide'n'seek
Thank you for the extra info!
One thing that caught my eye is the 42 hooch hauler hem being the same as a 40 moonshiner hem, meaning that actually the hooch hauler hem would be tighter at the same size. But I guess the moonshiner is more oversized (50s pattern) so it's better to compare 42 hooch with 40 moonshiner.
My Hooch Hauler was finished perfect in every measurements except for the shoulder width. It was dangerously narrow (16.5" vs ~17.75" that I would like) so I (perhaps foolishly) gently asked for a remake. Aero graciously accepted and now I'm eagerly waiting for it. Respect to Aero customer service!
Thank you for the extra info!
One thing that caught my eye is the 42 hooch hauler hem being the same as a 40 moonshiner hem, meaning that actually the hooch hauler hem would be tighter at the same size. But I guess the moonshiner is more oversized (50s pattern) so it's better to compare 42 hooch with 40 moonshiner.
My Hooch Hauler was finished perfect in every measurements except for the shoulder width. It was dangerously narrow (16.5" vs ~17.75" that I would like) so I (perhaps foolishly) gently asked for a remake. Aero graciously accepted and now I'm eagerly waiting for it. Respect to Aero customer service!
