Aero M-422a and AN6552 Mouton Collar Color

[Dracorex]

The Aero's M-422a Mouton Collar comes in Rust, Dark Brown, Golden and Mid Brown. The AN6552 comes in Rust, Gold and Brown. I was wondering which one of these colors for each jacket would be the most period correct. Thanks!

 

[pipvh]

It's my understanding that moutons, when issued, were dark brown: that rusty gold comes from tropical sunlight, salt spray and avgas.

 

[thor]

If you see some period photos of original WWII Navy flight jackets, the mouton does appear to be dark brown. It's amazing how the elements (particularly u/v rays from the sun and salt air, like pipvh mentioned) will fade and weather fabric or material (mouton m-422a collars, navy blue cotton drill deck jacket shells, sailor dungarees and officer/CPO khaki uniforms, etc). Even haze gray painted steel is quickly affected by the harsh environment.

 

[Dracorex]

Thanks Guys, All the G-1 jackets I've ever seen, especially the new ones, not only have very dark leather, almost black, they also have very dark mouton collars. When it comes to the M-422A though, I was under the impression that they originally had reddish brown mouton collars.

 

[thor]

This is from the recently posted interview with John Chapman (Goodwear):

Q: When I visited you at your studio last year, you had a rack of full length fur coats in one corner of your studio.

A: "Yes, that's all for the Navy jackets that have mouton collars. No one makes modern mouton like they did in the '40s. Modern stuff is too thin and wispy, or to hard and curly. The original is very even and has subtle color variations that you see if you brush it with your hand in sunlight. No modern stuff compares, that I've seen. Older stuff also holds up to moisture better. Modern versions seem to mat and curl when they get wet."

Even if the WWII period photos of M-422 jacket mouton looks darkish brown, it probably had a lot of depth of color and variation that photos just can't bring to life. I'd bet that the brown did have reddish tones which only became more prevalent with wear and sun fading/weathering. That's why JC uses the vintage mouton; modern fur just doesn't look, feel or age like the 1940-vintage stuff.

 

[pipvh]

Now I come to think of it, you're right, thor - and John Chapman, of course: my grandfather was a furrier and there were always a lot of mouton pieces around in his house: they were dark, almost black, but had that rich chestnut tinge and a lot of contrast when you brushed the nap.