Aero leather Hooch Hauler Sizing Advice

[matchankh]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to order a Hooch Hauler jacket from aero leather in the tobacco balalassi leather. I have contacted Holly from Aero and she has been very nice and helpful so far regarding my question.
However Im still unsure about the sizing as I have read that aero has tendency to recommend jacket that is a little large for our liking.

So my measurements are:

Short athletic build as Im into fitness.
Around 8 inches drop from Chest to waist

Height 172cm - 5ft 7.75"

Relaxed Chest 102cm - 40"

Expanded Chest 105cm - 41.5"

Stomach 82cm - 32.25"

Waist Over Belt 85cm - 33.5"

I'm looking for a cross zip style jacket. The bootlegger or the Hooch Hauler both look really nice.
I would be wearing this jacket under thin layers (T shirt or shirt) with mid to high rise trouser to try to elongate the body because I'm short. A challenge for me getting off the rack jackets would be Im normally a size 40 in Chest and shoulder but then the back length would be very long and the waist will be "empty" as the taper would not be strong enough.

I ask Holly which pattern would fit me better and she recommended the Hooch Hauler in a size 40 as it is slimmer and have a strong v taper.

She then sent me the stock measurements of a size 40 Hooch Hauler which are

21.75-22” pit to pit
18.25-18.5” shoulder

then she suggested to have the length shorten to 25' from the stock 26'

First by comparing to the leather jackets I currently own I think 25 is still too long to my liking, I'm think of having the back length shorten to 23.75 and sleeve length to 24.

Secondly I looked through Thurston Bros and some second hand HH jackets in size 40 and almost all of them have larger measurments at the chest and shoulder compared to the ones Holly sent me? Maybe their way of measuring is a little different to others? Makes me wonder if I could maybe fit into a size 38? Stories of custom aero jackets that are made too large make me quite skeptical. Also based of the fact that Holly suggested a 25 back length to me which I think it's too long doesn't help.

On the other hand Im not sure about how I should approach the waist taper.
The stock measurement is 20' and I'm look to narrow it to 18 inch taking the jacket in 1” across, 2” total. Does this seems like a sensible way to do it?
Most of the jacket I have is too loose at the waist (around 19'-20') so I don't have a good reference to measure and compare.

One last doubt I have is if I drastically shorten the jacket and taper the waist, would it disrupt the pattern of the jacket too much. Is there only so much we can do based on the original design of the jacket? Maybe the patterns of aero has to offer just isn't a good fit for me and maybe I'll have to go to the fully bespoke route? As Holly did stress on that they do not offer a bespoke service and can only make alterations based on their existing pattern.

Sorry this is quite a long read as this is my first custom jacket and Im quite difficult to fit. I would really appreciate advice and input from members who maybe has a similar body type as I do and has experience ordering custom from aero.

New joiner on this forum and so far I have learnt so much and really drooling over the beautiful collections some of the members own.

Have a nice day everyone!

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Hey there.

Thurston Bros measurements are with them pulling them. So you can kind of look at it as the max measurement or maybe the broken in measurement. But yeah, a few of us have had to squeeze into a jacket or two before we realized LOL. And forget about using the size numbers. I think I'm 38 to 44 depending on the style and leather type.

I think if you want tight fit, I would stay in the 2.5-3.5 inches of "ease" for chest. You can maybe go a little bit less with gussets, action back, and/or really stretchy leather. And of course depends what you plan on wearing underneath, but assuming tshirt only, I find 3ish inches is perfect but I know others push it closer to 2. So take your full chest measurement + 3 and then divide by 2 for ptp.

Shoulder you have more wiggle room. Assuming no extremes, it's more of an aesthetic. Do you want the look to be more linear (i.e. body stops and sleeves start) or do you want it to look like the jacket is drooping off your shoulders and blending into the sleeves. Many swear this number doesn't matter for fit. I agree to some extent but the lack of gussets will shorten the range you can play with, imo. I can wear anything in the 17.5 to 20 range. At the extreme ends there are fit differences for me, but the more noticeable difference is the visual.

25 sounds a tad long for your height. It really depends on where it's hitting your belt line and how you want it to hit. Don't forget to factor any front drop.

For waist, measure around your waist wearing jeans and belt. Then take it from there. Depending on the stretchyness of the leather you could use that number, or maybe go up a half inch or whatever factoring what youll typically wear and/or how loose you want it to be.

If you're pretty set on an Aero jacket, I'd suggest ordering a stock jacket from Thurston Bros using the estimates above. If it doesn't fit you can send back, but I think you're on the hook to buy something within a certain amount of time. Worst case, you'll know what needs adjusting and sounds like you need some custom sizing anyway. Just ping Carrie and she can walk you through it.

 

[Roy Hobbs]

Better yet…order a custom jacket from Carrie, she’ll send you a fit jacket similar to determine size. If you hate it she’ll refund your money less shipping. A great way to figure up size for your first custom. That’s what I did and we were able to tweak sizing from the fit jacket. Carrie really has an understanding of size based on preferences.

 

[matchankh]

Hey there.

Thurston Bros measurements are with them pulling them. So you can kind of look at it as the max measurement or maybe the broken in measurement. But yeah, a few of us have had to squeeze into a jacket or two before we realized LOL. And forget about using the size numbers. I think I'm 38 to 44 depending on the style and leather type.

I think if you want tight fit, I would stay in the 2.5-3.5 inches of "ease" for chest. You can maybe go a little bit less with gussets, action back, and/or really stretchy leather. And of course depends what you plan on wearing underneath, but assuming tshirt only, I find 3ish inches is perfect but I know others push it closer to 2. So take your full chest measurement + 3 and then divide by 2 for ptp.

Shoulder you have more wiggle room. Assuming no extremes, it's more of an aesthetic. Do you want the look to be more linear (i.e. body stops and sleeves start) or do you want it to look like the jacket is drooping off your shoulders and blending into the sleeves. Many swear this number doesn't matter for fit. I agree to some extent but the lack of gussets will shorten the range you can play with, imo. I can wear anything in the 17.5 to 20 range. At the extreme ends there are fit differences for me, but the more noticeable difference is the visual.

25 sounds a tad long for your height. It really depends on where it's hitting your belt line and how you want it to hit. Don't forget to factor any front drop.

For waist, measure around your waist wearing jeans and belt. Then take it from there. Depending on the stretchyness of the leather you could use that number, or maybe go up a half inch or whatever factoring what youll typically wear and/or how loose you want it to be.

If you're pretty set on an Aero jacket, I'd suggest ordering a stock jacket from Thurston Bros using the estimates above. If it doesn't fit you can send back, but I think you're on the hook to buy something within a certain amount of time. Worst case, you'll know what needs adjusting and sounds like you need some custom sizing anyway. Just ping Carrie and she can walk you through it.

Thanks for sharing your sizing technique!
When you say take the full Chest measurement, do you mean the chest measurement when you have inhaled?

I haven't contact Carrie because Im not based in the US so I initially thought I would go direct to aero.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Too bad. A fit jacket can make for a much smoother and trouble free custom fit. Carrie nailed it for me.
HD

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Thanks for sharing your sizing technique!
When you say take the full Chest measurement, do you mean the chest measurement when you have inhaled?

I haven't contact Carrie because Im not based in the US so I initially thought I would go direct to aero.

ah ok. Yeah, if you're not in US, then I wouldn't go with TB. Probably be too expensive with the shipping. But then again, i don't know.

Youtube a how to measure your body video. Lewis Leather actually has some good ones. Basically you take the tape and go all the way around just above your nipples (LOL, sorry, can't say that word without laughing for some reason). That's your full chest measurement. Then add the ease. Most manufacturers tend to recommend 4 inches and I've seen even 5 or 6. Craziness. If you want snug fit and again, more tshirt only, then I think 2-3 range is good. Then that total number you divide by two to get your PTP. But that's a general rule. It's taken a lot of us many bad purchases to understand sizing to style to leather type, etc. etc.

I would use that as a general idea so you know if you're close. Best thing is to send the person you're talking to a fit picture of how you want your jacket to fit so they understand. And then give them a similar jacket measurement for reference so higher chance to succeed. Then compare and flag anything that looks too big or small.

Have you seen this video btw? I happened to be watching the other night because he also ordered a Ridley in natural CXL which I just purchased. So was looking for advice on sizing, his experience, etc. Aero Leather Hooch Hauler Jacket in Russet Badalassi: A Deep Dive - YouTube

 

[matchankh]

ah ok. Yeah, if you're not in US, then I wouldn't go with TB. Probably be too expensive with the shipping. But then again, i don't know.

Youtube a how to measure your body video. Lewis Leather actually has some good ones. Basically you take the tape and go all the way around just above your nipples (LOL, sorry, can't say that word without laughing for some reason). That's your full chest measurement. Then add the ease. Most manufacturers tend to recommend 4 inches and I've seen even 5 or 6. Craziness. If you want snug fit and again, more tshirt only, then I think 2-3 range is good. Then that total number you divide by two to get your PTP. But that's a general rule. It's taken a lot of us many bad purchases to understand sizing to style to leather type, etc. etc.

I would use that as a general idea so you know if you're close. Best thing is to send the person you're talking to a fit picture of how you want your jacket to fit so they understand. And then give them a similar jacket measurement for reference so higher chance to succeed. Then compare and flag anything that looks too big or small.

Have you seen this video btw? I happened to be watching the other night because he also ordered a Ridley in natural CXL which I just purchased. So was looking for advice on sizing, his experience, etc. Aero Leather Hooch Hauler Jacket in Russet Badalassi: A Deep Dive - YouTube

Yes I have watched the video. I think that video is the main reason I'm making this purchase lol. However I don't think he touched on the sizing too much in it.

Anyway based on your sizing advice and recommendation given from Holly. I think I should be pretty safe with a size 40 with length shortend and waist taperd. I figure the first custom jacket won't be perfect but I hope it could be reasonably good.

 

[MrProper]

I think if you want tight fit, I would stay in the 2.5-3.5 inches of "ease" for chest. You can maybe go a little bit less with gussets, action back, and/or really stretchy leather. And of course depends what you plan on wearing underneath, but assuming tshirt only, I find 3ish inches is perfect but I know others push it closer to 2. So take your full chest measurement + 3 and then divide by 2 for ptp.

That's kind of how I do it.
109 cm circumference relaxed, not strongly inhaled.
Jackets have between 58 cm and 60 cm P2P.
Depending on the leather size of the armhole more or less.

 

[Salmosalar]

That's kind of how I do it.
109 cm circumference relaxed, not strongly inhaled.
Jackets have between 58 cm and 60 cm P2P.
Depending on the leather size of the armhole more or less.

I have one on order that is in production at present - it has been shortened in the sleeves and body but to the same degree as my Slimfit MC/Ridley jackets - I will report back when it arrives, but the Slimfit MC and HH are v similar in fit so using your Ridley as a guide could help?

 

[matchankh]

That's kind of how I do it.
109 cm circumference relaxed, not strongly inhaled.
Jackets have between 58 cm and 60 cm P2P.
Depending on the leather size of the armhole more or less.

A size 40 seems to have the right measurements using this method. Hopefully the jacket will turn out good.

Will post pics and report back in a few months!

 

[jonbuilder]

The Bootlegger can be ordered from Thurston Bros in STF with has more taper and slimmer arms. For example, a size 42 STF BL is closer fitting than a regular size 40 BL. I would think you would be good in a size 40 STF BL with the length shortened.

 

[matchankh]

The Bootlegger can be ordered from Thurston Bros in STF with has more taper and slimmer arms. For example, a size 42 STF BL is closer fitting than a regular size 40 BL. I would think you would be good in a size 40 STF BL with the length shortened.

I Asked Holly from aero to send me the measurements of the stf bl and hh. Seems like the pattern of Hooch Hauler should be very similar to stf BL?

 

[willyto]

I am 179cm of height and the 25” back souns too long. What is your height?

 

[matchankh]

I am 179cm of height and the 25” back souns too long. What is your height?

172cm so I'm planning on having it shorten to 23.75". 25" was suggested by Holly and I thought it was too long too

 

[Grayland]

Does the front drop down at all? 99% of the jackets I've seen that I consider too long are too long in the front.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I am 179cm of height and the 25” back souns too long. What is your height?

This is exactly what I was going to say. At your height 25" is massively too long. You'd need to go down to 24 at the very longest.

 

[matchankh]

This is exactly what I was going to say. At your height 25" is massively too long. You'd need to go down to 24 at the very longest.

G

This is exactly what I was going to say. At your height 25" is massively too long. You'd need to go down to 24 at the very longest.

Yes I agree and tempted to maybe even go for 23.5" but at the same time I worry too short of a length will disrupt the original pattern too much given it's original design has a 26" back length and make the jacket " square" shaped.

Should I have such concerns and just go for a safer 24"?

 

[Salmosalar]

G


Yes I agree and tempted to maybe even go for 23.5" but at the same time I worry too short of a length will disrupt the original pattern too much given it's original design has a 26" back length and make the jacket " square" shaped.

Should I have such concerns and just go for a safer 24"?

23.5” would be my suggestion….

 

[willyto]

I’m sure they can make up a short jacket without distorting it.

In fact I don’t understand how the standard one has a 26” back!

 

[matchankh]

I’m sure they can make up a short jacket without distorting it.

In fact I don’t understand how the standard one has a 26” back!

On their website they say their patterns are based on a 5'11 model. Im not too sure their meaning of this. So no matter if it's a size 36 or 44, they are all designed to fit a 5'11 guy? Seems kind of a weird way to do it.

I"ll just go for a 23.5" back length anyway lol