Aero leather help

[Faux59]

Hello Fedora Lounge!

I'm buying an Aero Bootlegger and would like your assistance with the leather selection.

I follow a YouTuber who reviews boots (Dale's Leather works) this is all his fault! I came across 2 of his older videos of his Aero jackets. Natural CXL horsehide and Ridley russet Badalassi Steerhide Hooch Hauler. Both colors are great!

Dale mentioned the Bootlegger in 1 of those videos I made the mistake of checking out that jacket on Aero's website. That was 2 months ago I've been obsessed with it since since and must have it.

I presently own these 3 leather jackets.
Black Schott 689H
Dark brown Schott P571
Medium brown Himel Frobisher

I want a brown Bootlegger that is different to my 2 brown jackets and doesn't have red or burgundy hues. My P571 is also too dark for my liking. I like the idea of horsehide over steerhide altho russet Badalassi steerhide looks amazing.

What would you choose from Aero's offerings given this info? They have too many leather suppliers and then too many colors I'm overwhelmed!

Another question I have is does Horsehide CXL experience the same CXL lottery and creasing their cow leather does?

I appreciate any and all replies!

 

[Canuck Panda]

My vote goes to natural CXL FQHH, it has no red in it, and the patina potential is awesome. It’s starts off sandy brown and morphs into honey brown and even brown cxl looking.
I would also suggest to build the Bootlegger design on the Ridley pattern block. You can ask for a custom taper if you want the hem to be tighter.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Welcome to FL - I would quickly suggest working with Carrie at Thurston Brothers if you are in North America. She will help you nail the fit and also is quite knowledgeable about all the leathers & lining offerings. Yes, it's easy to get overwhelmed! I walked into their store they used to have in 2013 in Seattle and my eyes nearly fell out. It was amazing!

Here's her thread - and may of the jackets she has specified - they also have some on the rack now:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-affiliate-thread.70770/page-289#post-3026294


Here's a few places you can review where these have been discussed prior.

This one is 15 pages in length:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-aero-bootlegger-v-2-0-cxl-brown.92525/

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-bootlegger.109006/

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-bootlegger-fit-advice-for-new-buy.109601/

 

[MrProper]

Another question I have is does Horsehide CXL experience the same CXL lottery and creasing their cow leather does?

What do you mean by lottery? What would be your fears?

I like the idea of horsehide over steerhide

I used to feel the same way. And today I can't even say why.
In fact, I couldn't tell you visually which of my jackets are horse and which are cow.
Just out of interest... what are your reasons for preferring horse?
My CXL cow is more comfortable to wear than my former CXL horse because it's not quite as stubborn. I like my Badalassis anyway. If you really like horse, you could also consider Vicenza, which is also very comfortable to wear, in my opinion.

 

[TartuWolf]

Might find some useful info:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-leather-choices-options-end-of-2022.109422/

After my recent Hooch Hauler I'm now a firm believer in CXLFQHH, it's just the way I imagine perfect jacket leather thickness/stiffness, would not want anything lighter/softer like Vicenza.
But this is such a subjective topic. Really need to try to decide yourself.

 

[DamonCyclee]

What do you mean by lottery? What would be your fears?

I used to feel the same way. And today I can't even say why.
In fact, I couldn't tell you visually which of my jackets are horse and which are cow.
Just out of interest... what are your reasons for preferring horse?
My CXL cow is more comfortable to wear than my former CXL horse because it's not quite as stubborn. I like my Badalassis anyway. If you really like horse, you could also consider Vicenza, which is also very comfortable to wear, in my opinion.

The lottery comes from delamination of the mid and top layer, looks like defect loose grain, common issue with CXL cowhides in footwear world.

ie. even alden and viberg have this, they would avoid the belly area and only use shoulder part of the hide and this issue still exist. Part of Horween charm ^^

 

[El Marro]

I like the idea of horsehide over steerhide

I used to feel the same way. And today I can't even say why.

Me too. So much so that for awhile I only bought horsehide jackets and I must have at least a dozen of them In my collection.
For me it was the novelty and also the hype for sure. I have to say that if I was in the market for a new Aero today I would be looking at Badalassi over the offerings in horse.

 

[MrProper]

The lottery comes from delamination of the mid and top layer, looks like defect loose grain, common issue with CXL cowhides in footwear world.

Well then I hope I'm unlucky in the lottery and my CXSH stays intact ;-)
Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Peter Mackin]

If I was starting out again, I would have any leathers that Aero do before I would have cx fqhh. I dislike the too quick wear and the way it marks up. Ive sold the 3 jackets I had made with the stuff.

 

[Dbrn]

I love the look of my Hooch Hauler in CXL FQHH. As some others have mentioned, I don't love the feel of it, which is a combination of the pattern and the very hard and heavy leather. If I were buying another Aero I would look at their steerhide as Proper recommended, or their new Pinnacle which seems like it may be amazing.

 

[DamonCyclee]

Well then I hope I'm unlucky in the lottery and my CXSH stays intact ;-)
Thanks for the explanation.

don't know if jacket have this, since footwear need to be stretch and lasted on a Last, that def have something to do with the loose grain. I don't think i have seen the cxl crease outside of footwear, but maybe others have!

 

[AeroFan_07]

don't know if jacket have this, since footwear need to be stretch and lasted on a Last, that def have something to do with the loose grain. I don't think i have seen the cxl crease outside of footwear, but maybe others have!

If you want to see CXL Steerhide that creased up, give this jacket a look. I owned it for ~ 4years from new, only sold it along as the '30's half-belt pattern wasn't my favorite. The Bootlegger is built off the 50's half belt pattern, so rather similar.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-30s-half-belt-black-steerhide-44.101136/

 

[Faux59]

You guys are great thanks for the replies and links! I know of Thurston through this forum. I may try them when I decide. I'm in Toronto. The border and international shipping rates might be a bit much for sample jackets.

Just out of interest... what are your reasons for preferring horse?

I have no good reason other than to say King Richard didn't cry out for a cow.

Can't say why. I have 15 pair of boots and I gravitate to the pairs made of horsebutt more. I simply find horse leather more interesting and desirable. It probably has to do with the food chain. I've never eaten horse or seen it offered anywhere as food whereas cow has always been on the menu and it's like eh beef again.

I know I don't want another super stiff leather jacket like the black Schott. My Himel has Shinki horse and softened very quickly. I've worn the Schott more to break it in (even around the house) and it's still like George Costanza's gore tex coat. I will probably yield before that Schott does.

 

[SteveOneMoreAero]

My bootlegger is brown cxlhh and I kinda wish I went with jerky HH for more year round use. The leather is stunning though. It does soften up with a bit of wear and heat in it.

 

[Squirrel_hero]

I love badalassi! There’s nothing else like it in my opinion. Drapes nicely and forms immediately. Only draw back is it takes a while to break in the squeak! But I don’t mind my wife hates it!
Seems like you went from Rolex’s to boots to leather jackets lol.
You ain’t seen anything until you get a Thedi in my opinion.

 

[Faux59]

OP here

Thanks all for the replies and info. I ordered russet Badalassi!

Seems like you went from Rolex’s to boots to leather jackets lol.

Tell me about it! The boot obsession hasn't yielded unfortunately!

 

[ton312]

Brown CXL is just so beautiful to look at. As far as I know, Aero is also using lighter batches of CXL on request, which ironically enough, I would prefer over these two heavy jackets I owned. Neither one terribly uncomfortable but certainly I would want them skived down a bit if I ordered today.

 

[TartuWolf]

Aero is also using lighter batches of CXL on request

That is false. The thinner CXL batches were a fluke/mistake. They might have some remaining in stock. Last time I talked to Aero they still had some black and some cherry thinner CXL HH.

 

[ton312]

That is false. The thinner CXL batches were a fluke/mistake. They might have some remaining in stock. Last time I talked to Aero they still had some black and some cherry thinner CXL HH.

That’s not the information I got. I could swear in an email I exchanged with Denny, Aero was looking for 3oz and under. The 4-4.5oz (steer) hides are actually the anomaly. But an email to them direct is of course the best route.

 

[TartuWolf]

Good bet is that our information comes from different moments in time. But I sure hope that you are correct and that I am wrong when if I ever end up going for an Aero Vincent in black CXL!