Aero J-106/Ridley fit check

[Bfd70]

Welcome to TO TFL. Inflaming ocd since 2005

 

[Herrvallmo]

I would be super happy with that fit, don't overthink it man! also love the mix of colors, very nice

 

[postman10mm]

My mistake, this J106/Ridley's back is actually 25.5".

Do the same length guidelines apply to cross-zip half-belts? I have a size 36 Hooch Hauler size 36, spec'd with a 25" back, now I'm wondering if I should shorten it.

 

[Aloysius]

My mistake, this J106/Ridley's back is actually 25.5".

Do the same length guidelines apply to cross-zip half-belts? I have a size 36 Hooch Hauler size 36, spec'd with a 25" back, now I'm wondering if I should shorten it.

Definitely not; half-belts whether single or double breasted will run longer.

 

[TartuWolf]

My mistake, this J106/Ridley's back is actually 25.5".

Do the same length guidelines apply to cross-zip half-belts? I have a size 36 Hooch Hauler size 36, spec'd with a 25" back, now I'm wondering if I should shorten it.

My hooch hauler is 23.25" back, but I'm 5"8.
Id go for 23.5" given he chance now, slightly wider hem too.

 

[torfjord]

My mistake, this J106/Ridley's back is actually 25.5".

Do the same length guidelines apply to cross-zip half-belts? I have a size 36 Hooch Hauler size 36, spec'd with a 25" back, now I'm wondering if I should shorten it.

I would want it shorter than that and I’m a size 40, 182 cm long.
If it’s long enough to extend over your hips/ass the hem might be too tight!

 

[TartuWolf]

I would want it shorter than that and I’m a size 40, 182 cm long.
If it’s long enough to extend over your hips/ass the hem might be too tight!

The stock hem width is notoriously tight for the hooch hauler, I could not zip up the jacket if it was a few cm longer.

 

[Leather_nube]

Fit looks good in chest and shoulders. I can’t see shoulder droop. It’s maybe a touch long but whatever, I like em a bit longer. For a used jacket and non custom order it’s really good. Looks well on you too!

 

[TartuWolf]

I'd also like to add that jacket length is one of the most subjective fit aspects of all so if it looks and feels fine to you - enjoy the jacket!

 

[postman10mm]

Definitely not; half-belts whether single or double breasted will run longer.

My hooch hauler is 23.25" back, but I'm 5"8.
Id go for 23.5" given he chance now, slightly wider hem too.

Thank you both - I can easily recognize a great fit on someone else, like, Tartuwolf’s HH, just about anything Marc or Mr Proper share, but I never broke down which elements contributed to the fit - I it seems like the shorter length on a Perfecto style cross-zip facilitates the V shape, but where the longer half-belt gets a slight flair at the hem - is that the general distinction?

 

[TartuWolf]

Thank you both - I can easily recognize a great fit on someone else, like, Tartuwolf’s HH, just about anything Marc or Mr Proper share, but I never broke down which elements contributed to the fit - I it seems like the shorter length on a Perfecto style cross-zip facilitates the V shape, but where the longer half-belt gets a slight flair at the hem - is that the general distinction?

If we talk strictly about shapes below the armpits then in my head there are several main variations:
V - gradually tapers from armpits to bottom hem. Great for short jackets. Also great when your waist is wider than your hips.
Y - tapers from pits to waist and then goes straight down. My favorite one. Again works best with shorter jackets. Very nice if your waist is the same or slimmer than your hips (like my case).
| | - tube or almost no taper. SB is famous for this I guess. Works well for more blocky body types. Also great for long jackets or coats.
( ) - barel shaped. The ribbed hem jackets tend to have this shape often. Great for folks with extra real estate in the middle part of the torso.
)( - hourglass shaped. This works for longer jackets or coats very well. For example coats with a belt. Or longer half-belts. Again, your waist needs to be slimmer than your hips and you have to have some upper body mass for this to work best. Looks best if the flare out at the bottom is rather subtle, not extreme.
Also adjusters at the waist (like half-belt) work better for folks with a waist that is the same or slimmer than hips. Adjusters near the bottom hem work better for folks with hips slimmer than the waist.

 

[Leather_nube]

If we talk strictly about shapes below the armpits then in my head there are several main variations:
V - gradually tapers from armpits to bottom hem. Great for short jackets. Also great when your waist is wider than your hips.
Y - tapers from pits to waist and then goes straight down. My favorite one. Again works best with shorter jackets. Very nice if your waist is the same or slimmer than your hips (like my case).
| | - tube or almost no taper. SB is famous for this I guess. Works well for more blocky body types. Also great for long jackets or coats.
( ) - barel shaped. The ribbed hem jackets tend to have this shape often. Great for folks with extra real estate in the middle part of the torso.
)( - hourglass shaped. This works for longer jackets or coats very well. For example coats with a belt. Or longer half-belts. Again, your waist needs to be slimmer than your hips and you have to have some upper body mass for this to work best. Looks best if the flare out at the bottom is rather subtle, not extreme.
Also adjusters at the waist (like half-belt) work better for folks with a waist that is the same or slimmer than hips. Adjusters near the bottom hem work better for folks with hips slimmer than the waist.

Which one of those is for a dad bod?

 

[Aloysius]

Which one of those is for a dad bod?

Hourglass and cut a bit longer. This isn't dad bod specific either; it's the most traditional silhouette in men's clothing for about 200 years now. The reason is that you can generate a flattering balanced shape even if someone is (as most of us are) disproportionate in some way or other. A larger, drapier chest can generate the impression of a V-shaped body, while the flaring at the skirt/under the half belt will contribute to the sense of a defined waist even if perhaps the person's waist is not so defined.

 

[TartuWolf]

Which one of those is for a dad bod?

I'd say the most sensible/comfortable would be the () shape, but it wouldn't be the most flattering. Overall I think "dad bod" really goes well with ribbed jackets like an A2.
I suppose the hourglass would give the illusion of a slimmer waist like @Aloysius mentioned.
The V can also work if you're not packing love handles, have narrower hips and mainly have a belly in the mid section. But then the back curves in and the front pops out, which is also not ideal.
I'll shut up now

 

[Aloysius]

I'd say the most sensible/comfortable would be the () shape, but it wouldn't be the most flattering. Overall I think "dad bod" really goes well with ribbed jackets like an A2.
I suppose the hourglass would give the illusion of a slimmer waist like @Aloysius mentioned.
The V can also work if you're not packing love handles, have narrower hips and mainly have a belly in the mid section. But then the back curves in and the front pops out, which is also not ideal.
I'll shut up now

Knit waist pilot jackets don't have a () shape though; you're thinking of the jackets being pushed out by people's bellies, not the way they actually fit. A-2s are either V/Y or slim-straight, and US Navy jackets are aggressively v shaped.

 

[TartuWolf]

Knit waist pilot jackets don't have a () shape though; you're thinking of the jackets being pushed out by people's bellies, not the way they actually fit. A-2s are either V/Y or slim-straight, and US Navy jackets are aggressively v shaped.

Visual examples please! For me the knit forces a () shape, at least at the bottom section.

 

[Aloysius]

Visual examples please! For me the knit forces a () shape, at least at the bottom section.

Just try one; they're very cheap given they never stopped being issued, so you can find them in every imaginable size.