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Aero Horween horse hides

Canuck Panda

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4,681
Do you have anything in Badalassi?
I added Badalassi below,
temper compare include badalassi.jpg


The Badalassi jacket in the compare pics above is actually the same pattern as the FQHH jacket, CR/Sheene, same size, same lining, almost same thickness, FQHH do feel just slightly thicker. Badalassi obvious drapes softer out of the box. And squeakier than the other leathers. The Aero's CXL SH I have is heavier (thicker), but I believe in the same thickness as the Badalassi they will drape about the same.
 

onstar

One of the Regulars
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227
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Jo Mammas House
I added Badalassi below,
View attachment 654972

The Badalassi jacket in the compare pics above is actually the same pattern as the FQHH jacket, CR/Sheene, same size, same lining, almost same thickness, FQHH do feel just slightly thicker. Badalassi obvious drapes softer out of the box. And squeakier than the other leathers. The Aero's CXL SH I have is heavier (thicker), but I believe in the same thickness as the Badalassi they will drape about the same.
How is soft or stiff is Vicenza horsehide?
 

Faux59

Familiar Face
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77
Location
Toronto
When I first saw this thread, I wanted to make a compare to show the stiffness of the different leathers, especially the CXLs. Got some time this morning to make this compare photo.
Dude that's awesome! I never thought of doing that.

I tried the Canuck Panda test with my Vicenza (Aeron30s Highwayman). It was stiff as a board at first like your CXL FQHH then folded over a little like CXL SH Aero.

I'm OK having a stiff jacket at first and think I'll break it in rather quickly on my bike. Part of me wants the experience too. I can always change it when I confirm specs but I went ahead and ordered an Aero J-106 CXL FQHH.
 

MickeyPunch

One of the Regulars
Messages
143
I added Badalassi below,
View attachment 654972

The Badalassi jacket in the compare pics above is actually the same pattern as the FQHH jacket, CR/Sheene, same size, same lining, almost same thickness, FQHH do feel just slightly thicker. Badalassi obvious drapes softer out of the box. And squeakier than the other leathers. The Aero's CXL SH I have is heavier (thicker), but I believe in the same thickness as the Badalassi they will drape about the same.
Thanks for this.
 

AeroFan_07

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5,704
Location
Iowa
How is soft or stiff is Vicenza horsehide?
As @Canuck Panda accurately stated toward the end of Page 1 of this thread -

Even Vicenza I've had deerskin soft ones and almost CXL FQHH stiff ones.

As leather is a natural product, coming through various means of tanning and finishing, no two hides will ever be exactly the same (and arguably you don't want that either). So there is no "every" in this business. There can be an "average" or "normative range" but I have personally handled Vicenza that is super soft and smooth, soft and extremely grainy, as well as rather stiff and smooth as well. That's just in 3-jackets, the only three Vicenza ones I have had. But my experience is just that - I've had the jackets in-hand and on my back. These are documented in this forum. Others have also documented their experiences as @Canuck Panda has done.
 

Canuck Panda

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4,681
How is soft or stiff is Vicenza horsehide?
It depends.

I had some Vicenza (Victoria SRL) Horsehide jackets come through my hands. From three different brands, but mostly Aero. About a third of them were really stiff, a third is normal, and a third is really soft. The ones that stayed will get broken in if they haven't yet.

Softest to Stiffest, left to right,
aero horsehide.jpg


Stiff horsehides isn't for everyone. I have realized this. This is why I would suggest steerhides alternatives now whenever this question comes up. Most horsehide tannage has the same tannage but in steerhides, so you get the similar look and finish but not as stiff out of the box and easier to break in.

However, horsehides jackets are worth the journey. The journey is the point for hosehide jacket imo. If the fit and style works, just go with it. It's a very rewarding process when it's fully broken in and make it your own. The grains is amazing. If the style and fit is good, then give it time.
 

Marc mndt

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7,314
Whats funny about that?? You know what he meant
No I do not know what he meant. Steerhide is more consistent than horsehide in general? That's nonsense.

And what does stable mean in the context of leather? If he meant temper (how pliable the leather is) then generalizing differences between horsehide and steerhide is nonsense as well because temper largely depends on the way a hide was tanned.

Panda is talking gibberish yet he presents it like it's the absolute truth, which made me laugh.
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
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1,177
Location
Tartu, Estonia
It depends.

I had some Vicenza (Victoria SRL) Horsehide jackets come through my hands. From three different brands, but mostly Aero. About a third of them were really stiff, a third is normal, and a third is really soft. The ones that stayed will get broken in if they haven't yet.

Softest to Stiffest, left to right

Stiff horsehides isn't for everyone. I have realized this. This is why I would suggest steerhides alternatives now whenever this question comes up. Most horsehide tannage has the same tannage but in steerhides, so you get the similar look and finish but not as stiff out of the box and easier to break in.

However, horsehides jackets are worth the journey. The journey is the point for hosehide jacket imo. If the fit and style works, just go with it. It's a very rewarding process when it's fully broken in and make it your own. The grains is amazing. If the style and fit is good, then give it time.
Damn, that's a lovely looking N1 jacket, do you have a thread about it or more photos?
 

Dbrn

One of the Regulars
Messages
154
No I do not know what he meant. Steerhide is more consistent than horsehide in general? That's nonsense.

And what does stable mean in the context of leather? If he meant temper (how pliable the leather is) then generalizing differences between horsehide and steerhide is nonsense as well because temper largely depends on the way a hide was tanned.

Panda is talking gibberish yet he presents it like it's the absolute truth, which made me laugh.
I can't speak for Panda, but in the context of this thread I understood him to mean CXL steer vs. horse (though he didn't say that). I've never handled CXL steer but a few others on here have also said the steer is more pliable than the horse.
 

NamoAmituofo

One of the Regulars
Messages
143
It depends.

However, horsehides jackets are worth the journey. The journey is the point for hosehide jacket imo. If the fit and style works, just go with it. It's a very rewarding process when it's fully broken in and make it your own. The grains is amazing. If the style and fit is good, then give it time.
Well said about HH jackets - it's a journey I'd compare to Japanese martial arts black belts. I've seen the belts on a 3rd dan (or 3rd degree black belt) or higher grade start to wear out and the white core becomes visible on the edges where the knot is tied hundreds or even thousands of times. I've also seen a 7th dan black belt what is almost shredded to half white half black, and this sensei will not accept a new belt - call it his journey of 40 years of training.

If I can keep only 1 jacket, it will be CXL HH
 

Aloysius

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Well said about HH jackets - it's a journey I'd compare to Japanese martial arts black belts. I've seen the belts on a 3rd dan (or 3rd degree black belt) or higher grade start to wear out and the white core becomes visible on the edges where the knot is tied hundreds or even thousands of times. I've also seen a 7th dan black belt what is almost shredded to half white half black, and this sensei will not accept a new belt - call it his journey of 40 years of training.

If I can keep only 1 jacket, it will be CXL HH

They actually make and sell fast-fading black belts designed for this to happen, haha. They have a satin/silk exterior that quickly wears off of the white core although this is often combined with the "traditional" method of rubbing the belt on rocks or wood to wear down the outer fibres!

Of the arts that use the modern grading (kyu/dan belt) system, this is most common in karate (and its offshoots) because the belt doesn't have to support anything. In styles that use a judogi, you need a stiff and sturdy belt because it's what keeps your jacket fastened.
 

bigmanbigtruck

A-List Customer
Messages
351
I've seen the belts on a 3rd dan (or 3rd degree black belt) or higher grade start to wear out and the white core becomes visible on the edges where the knot is tied hundreds or even thousands of times. I've also seen a 7th dan black belt what is almost shredded to half white half black, and this sensei will not accept a new belt - call it his journey of 40 years of training.
Didn't expect to learn about Gi-core
 

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