Aero Highwayman Brown FQHH and Lost Worlds Suburban Russet HH

[Timsum]

I've been a fan of re-pro leather jackets for a long time and glad to have signed up recently to the Fedora Lounge to admire fellow hobbyists' jacket collections. Recently acquired the Highwayman in Brown FQHH from the Aero Sale page and the Suburban in 3.5 oz Russett HH from LW.

I've always owned LW jackets and the Highwayman is my first Aero. IMHO, I feel the overall workmanship and finish weigh heavily in LW's favour.

The stitching from the LW is more refined compared to the Aero.

Lost Worlds (Jacket base)
Aero (Jacket base)

Aero side seams
Lost Worlds side seams


For the jackets' interior, the Highwayman's based is finished with Corduroy and the Suburban is finished with 2 strips of HH. From my other LW Ryder and Stuart's assurance, the colour will not rub onto my clothing .

Fit wise, the HWM is a 36. It's snug with room for a t-shirt or flannel shirt but no layering. I guess I could have sized up to 38 but it's a sale item so I'll have to accept that. The Suburban is a 38 special order so it is made to the measurements I provided with room for light layering like a sweater.

For my Aero, I love the CXL HH but feel that the stitching could be better. Maybe this is due to the hide? Being a pull-up leather, the CXL HH has the variation of red tones and patina as seen in the outdoor direct sunlight photos.

For the Suburban, I love the dense feel of the Russet Chrome Tanned HH. I am guessing the density of the hide allows for the closer stitches per inch. Surprisingly, this new batch of Russet HH at 3.5 oz. feels more supple compared to my older LW HH jackets (A2 and Ryder).

Overall, I am happy with both. But despite the limited HH and colour choices from LW, I guess I'm still hooked on their jackets. Maybe the Navy HH from LW could be the next one to aim for.

Thanks fellow Loungers!

 

[Bunyip]

Very interesting. I'm very interested in the LW line up, but have not handled one or bought one as yet. I've heard nothing but good things about them. Either way, those two beautiful jackets should last you a lifetime and then some.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Both are premium and very nice...but I much prefer the look and eventual wear characteristics of Aero's CXL FQHH. Just a personal choosing.
HD

 

[nick123]

There's something really pleasing about that shade of brown LW uses. But the same goes for the Aero. The LW leather looks flatter and less dynamic, but there's a hell of a lot of cool in it. The Aero just grabs the soul and runs with it.

 

[Timsum]

Thanks. It's a little too warm downunder and can't wait for the temperature to drop

 

[AdeeC]

Aero jackets from my examples and on observation compared to other makers tend to use thicker thread and run about 7 stitches to the inch compared to finer thread at 8 or more stitches to the inch as seen in many other makers. This may appear as less refined or cruder but not so. Just a heavier gauge of finishing and in the long run perhaps more tougher and durable. Your excellent comparison photos clearly show this.

 

[Jwag]

very nice jackets. I have yet to own an Aero, but I know LW is premier.

 

[Monitor]

Both are premium and very nice...but I much prefer the look and eventual wear characteristics of Aero's CXL FQHH. Just a personal choosing.
HD

+1

 

[Plumbline]

Having had several ( 7 ) Highwayman jackets and 2 Suburbans I'd offer the following ...... while they "look" similar ... they are very different in how they fit and wear. The Suburban feels looser on .. but both are substantially larger than their equiv. sized halfbelt ( the modern Aero Highwayman post 2012 I can't comment on as I haven't owned one yet). You have to say Stu's construction and materials are (as always) outstanding, there is nothing wrong with Aero's but it's not quite as good at Stu's ( again pre 2012 Aero)

In terms of hide the CXL HH and LW HH are very differenr beasts ... Stu's has grain and character from the get go ... CXL isn't like that ... it takes time and wear to get there and in reallity will NEVER age like LW HH. If you want heavy graining on CXL hide you need to use steer which IMHO grains beautifully. CXL HH is a smooth hide by design to start with .. it does crease and grain with time and usage but not to the extent of LW HH (it also has a firnmwer hand than LW HH which gives it that bullet proof feel .... LW HH is substantial but more pliant ... still mighty thick but not as stiff when first worn or cold unlike CXL because of the oils and fats stuffed into CXL. As I said they ar5e VERY different beasts - both superb hides - just different.

The Aero Highwayman is such an iconic jacket .... it has change little from the early 80's and carries over many of the features prevailant in that period ( wider upper arms, boxy body fit, relatively low chest - waist ratio). The Suburban in true LW sytle is more of a larger patterned replica of a 1940's / 1950's M/C jackets particularly the collar cut and the sleeve design .... in truth if you wanted to compare like with like you'd compare the zip sleeve Highwayman with the Suburban.

IMHO the Suburban is at least one position above the Highwayman in the league of jackets as follows :

Fit :

Both prettyy much similar - both built for the "modern body" and 1-2 sizes larger than "suit size" .... I wear a 42 suit and a 40" in both vs a 44" in a i930's Aero HB

Features :

Suburban has it as a result of no added "waistband", cuff finishing (zips and over-clasp - I elected to omit this on mine which was a mistake on my part ), collar finishing, single lipped pockets at slightly shallower angle, pocket linings, zip, internal finishing at the bottom, internal pocket design in the facing better finished, heavy satin lining which is GREAT.

Hide:

Nothing much to give here ( horses for courses - no pun intended) .. CXL HH is great .... LW HH is great .. different but both great.



The Highwayman is a bit heavier weight wise (on mine at least) .... great review though ... mine for comparison




The Suburban is 9 years old

 

[Plumbline]

The Highwayman is closer to 11 years old ( the leather trim at the bottom and the light "Stuart" lining were extras .... but they do allow a direct comparison with the Suburban)

 

[Sloan1874]

Both are premium and very nice...but I much prefer the look and eventual wear characteristics of Aero's CXL FQHH. Just a personal choosing.
HD

+1 plain chromed HH just doesn't do it for me.

 

[Timsum]

Aero jackets from my examples and on observation compared to other makers tend to use thicker thread and run about 7 stitches to the inch compared to finer thread at 8 or more stitches to the inch as seen in many other makers. This may appear as less refined or cruder but not so. Just a heavier gauge of finishing and in the long run perhaps more tougher and durable. Your excellent comparison photos clearly show this.

Thanks AdeeC. That explains the difference between the stitches. I suppose this is also due to the use of different sewing machines ?
In any case it's only me the fanatic that will notice such fine details. I doubt the average bloke will even care save the price tag

 

[Timsum]

Both are premium and very nice...but I much prefer the look and eventual wear characteristics of Aero's CXL FQHH. Just a personal choosing.
HD

I suppose plain chrome tanned HH works better for Black HH where the variation in tone is harder to see. Whereas CXL HH works better for browns as it gives more depth and shading effect of the leather.

 

[Timsum]

Very interesting. I'm very interested in the LW line up, but have not handled one or bought one as yet. I've heard nothing but good things about them. Either way, those two beautiful jackets should last you a lifetime and then some.

Bunyip, you should seriously consider a LW jacket for your next purchase

 

[Grayland]

I've owned both. The build quality on each is outstanding, overbuilt in fact. I would say the LW was just perfect in every way - every stitch line was perfectly straight. The Aero's I've had weren't as perfect in that way, but only someone looking closely for perfection would notice and it wouldn't be noticeable from more than 12 inches away. The LW was more grainy. My Aero's and most I've seen just aren't as grainy as some of the other leathers.

IMO, the big difference in LW and Aero is the color and color variation of the hides. The LW Russet is perfectly russet all the way through and around. There is zero variation in color. Stu seems to aim for perfection in every way and his leather is perfectly russet. The Aero brown CXL has an incredible variation in color and gets substantially better with age. Many here can explain the nuances of tanning and color much better than me, but I can offer a simple comparison. Think of quality leather as a piece of wood. LW paints their wood with russet paint. Aero rubs theirs with stain.

 

[Fanch]

Congratulations Timsum; you now have the best of two worlds.

 

[mendelboaz]

Fit pics please !

 

[Jägernaut]

Lost worlds has some great looking cuts. His obsession with using god-awful thick hides has me scared off. Most of his work I see selling on eBay used looks new still. I like his buck but not with 4oz hide.

Upon closer inspection I see they use 3oz for their j100. Still too thick for that style.

 

[bbq]

This thread has been really helpful in understanding the differences between Aero and LW. I have a newer Aero Hercules (my first Aero) which is breaking in nicely and is developing many of the characteristics mentioned. But I've been looking at the LW jackets and wondering how they compare to mine. All your experiences has helped me start to figure this out.

My son lives in NYC. Does LW have a storefront? Might be time for a visit.

 

[Fanch]

My son lives in NYC. Does LW have a storefront? Might be time for a visit.

It is my understanding that LW has no storefront and will not allow visitation. [huh] LW does appear to make a great product though.