Aero CHiPs jacket custom order question

[Cyber Lip]

Question for the peeps here who have ordered one of these custom from Aero/Thurston...I used to have one and stupidly sold it which I now regret, so I'm thinking about getting another one. One small thing that bothered me about it though was that it fit me perfectly with the lace side adjustors adjusted almost all the way out, and I'm a slim guy, which bugged me.

I believe the reason for this is because the sizing on this style runs big. I normally wear a 42, but had to size down to a 38. I have no idea who on earth would be able to fit into one of these with the laces cinched all the way up. and who they are made for lol. Someone with an insane wide shoulder to impossibly skinny waist ratio? On my reasonably narrow frame a jacket like this, that fits properly, should need to be cinched in a good amount, and that's how I'd like to wear it as it looks best and most proper like that, cinched in with room for expansion. The idea being that someone can expand outwards to accommodate a girthy belly if needed. That's the purpose of a design like this. As it stands, these jackets oddly aren't made for that. Not that I'm planning on getting fat, I just think that's how they're supposed to look.

Ideally that's what I'd like to shoot for on the new CHiPs I'm planning on ordering. Is it possible? Has anyone here ordered one of these and had this addressed? I'm thinking probably not, because if they simply increased the side panels you'd still have that open pretty far look, but just with more material stuffed in there. To do it properly they'd have to widen the front and rear sections which seems like a pattern alteration. Am I correct?

BTW - the above has been true of all the Aeros I've had with side adjustors...they've looked best on me with the adjustors all the way, or most of the way out. Premiere slim fits in size 42, Highwayman and Chips both in a 38, etc. And once again, I don't have a girthy belly

 

[El Marro]

I know that @JMax ordered an Aero CHP a few years ago. He might be able to help you out on this one.
I agree with your point about the size laces, I like my jackets to fit with the laces pretty close all the way cinched up. Receiving a custom jacket and having to wear it with the laces all the way out feels like somebody made a mistake…

 

[Aloysius]

I know that @JMax ordered an Aero CHP a few years ago. He might be able to help you out on this one.
I agree with your point about the size laces, I like my jackets to fit with the laces pretty close all the way cinched up. Receiving a custom jacket and having to wear it with the laces all the way out feels like somebody made a mistake…

The “Holiday Allowance” cinch.

 

[JMax]

I didn’t have this issue. I did need to size down from my normal 44. I went 40 with a taper to a 38 bottom hem and deleted the sidelaces. Nice and easy.

 

[Mich486]

The problem is that you are a 42 and went with a 38 (to achieve a trim upper body I assume) that’s why you need to let out the side laces all the way.

The typical size down 2 on the 50s block brings up all sorts of problems (tight neck, etc etc). I guess for some people it works out but it’s a risky game in my experience.

Imho you’ve got to embrace the 50s block pattern and buy your usual size. Yes, the chest ease is more than in patterns based on other decades. Yes, the bicep area is going to be roomy.

 

[Psant25]

I got a 38 normally wear a 42. Compared to my columbia the style they use for the side adjusters i think best to not cinch it much. Fit like my 38 highwaymans with a trimmer body kinda like my new highwaymans size 38 tapered to 36 torso/hem.

Found some pics looks like I did cinch it some. Sold it too shoulda kept it… black cxl fqhh

 

[Marc mndt]

I wondered whether stiff / thick CXL would actually be suitable for cinching. The example above shows it is.

 

[Psant25]

Heres my columbia 1/2 the material just a single layer of leather

 

[jonbuilder]

If you have $1,800 o spend you could contact Cal Leathers: the following is included "Each LAPD comes with a removable fur-lined collar and face flap for cold weather riding, fur-lined sleeve cuffs provide protection against wind and insects, and a hand-tooled belt with your name stamped on the inside."
Johnson Leathers is another option if you are looking for a bespoke fit, they stock numerous hide selections.

 

[JMax]

IMO, The size down in this jacket is necessary unless you want the jacket to double as a parachute. Good for pilots or those dudes who clean windows on high rises. The taper depends on how you want it to fit. Doesn’t have to be two sizes I guess but a 44 was rather large on me with not enough side lace to cinch it tight.

 

[Cyber Lip]

The problem is that you are a 42 and went with a 38 (to achieve a trim upper body I assume) that’s why you need to let out the side laces all the way.

The typical size down 2 on the 50s block brings up all sorts of problems (tight neck, etc etc). I guess for some people it works out but it’s a risky game in my experience.

Imho you’ve got to embrace the 50s block pattern and buy your usual size. Yes, the chest ease is more than in patterns based on other decades. Yes, the bicep area is going to be roomy.

a 38 in the chips or highwayman fits like a 42. so going with a 42 would be like wearing a 46 or 48. It's weird sizing for sure, I don't know why Aero does it this way

 

[Wildhorses]

I own the same jacket sizes as yours. A 42 premier highwayman, a 38 regular highwayman and a regular 38 CHIPS. All are in FQHH, and fit perfectly with a light sweater or a shirt. With a tee only there is a bit of room. All of them are cinched half-way, exactly like shown on Psant25 CHIPS picture, for a closer fit. The regular HWMN and the CHIPS are baggy jackets, almost bombers jackets, they have to be cinched enough at the waist.
In your case, either you did size down too far with your CHIPS, or you have very narrow shoulders and chest.

 

[Mich486]

a 38 in the chips or highwayman fits like a 42. so going with a 42 would be like wearing a 46 or 48. It's weird sizing for sure, I don't know why Aero does it this way

Yeah I don’t think so anymore but I see where you are coming from. I tried to explain that in my previous post. The reason why a 38 is not a 42 in a highwayman/50s based jacket it’s why your side laces on a 38 need to be let all out. The problem is not with Aero’s sizing but imho with your projection of today’s sizing standards onto historical patterns. Compare a size S/38 t-shirt from the 90s to a size S/38 from 2010. Likely the measurements aren’t the same.