Aero Buco J-100 fit jacket: your feedback is greatly appreciated!

[SklounstDraxxer]

I wonder if a Cafe Racer pattern one size smaller might be a better fit for your frame. The Cafe Racer pattern might be easier to fine tune with its side panels than the Board Racer. Or maybe the Board Racer with a split back might alleviate the fullness in the back, keeping what Aero has to say about this very issue in their descriptionof the BR on their website:

"The back has a double kidney panel and is cut to fit close to the torso, to achieve this we've had to use a centre back seam, quadruple stitched for extra strength, which follows the contours of the wearers backbone. We are aware that a centre back seam isn't to everyone's liking so we are offering the option of a one piece upper back but one should be aware that this will compromise the close fit of the jacket."

Those are good thoughts. Aesthetically I prefer the Buco J-100 style back, but not enough to compromise the correct fit.

At this point, I'm thinking to try on a J-100 fit jacket in one size smaller and get some pictures of that...

 

[Seb Lucas]

I don't mind the fit. It's loose but not stupidly so and will break in and look ok. But if you are into a trim fit it's not quite right.

 

[ProteinNerd]

I'm sure you could customise a cafe racer to look more like the J-100....it's something I'm considering atm.

Cafe racer base, add length to the body and have the zip start a few inches higher, ask if they can put the sleeve zips on the front. Curved back yoke. Might be a good compromise?

 

[dudewuttheheck]

The back especially is far too baggy. Not a great fit.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Southern California, I imagine you rarely need to zip up there!

Yes, the sleeves are actually a little baggy, not to a huge degree, but larger in circumfrence than I would prefer. Unless you plan to often wear a heavy shirt or sweatshirt under it, given the So Cal reality, I tend to doubt that.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

I'm sure you could customise a cafe racer to look more like the J-100....it's something I'm considering atm.

Cafe racer base, add length to the body and have the zip start a few inches higher, ask if they can put the sleeve zips on the front. Curved back yoke. Might be a good compromise?

That's a good thought--but can't we go the reverse route and take a J-100, then customize that to fit more like a cafe racer? I understand that jackets are based on patterns, but maybe I overestimate the amount of deviation one can do from a stock pattern size.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

Southern California, I imagine you rarely need to zip up there!

Yes, the sleeves are actually a little baggy, not to a huge degree, but larger in circumfrence than I would prefer. Unless you plan to often wear a heavy shirt or sweatshirt under it, given the So Cal reality, I tend to doubt that.

Yes, exactly--I hardly ever need to zip up here. So I'm completely fine with a jacket that might be slightly uncomfortable when zipped up.

And now that I just tried on the jacket again, I agree that the sleeve circumference is a little larger than I'd like. Hopefully this is something that they can slim down??

Also, any comments on the sleeve length itself? I find them to be hair long, but nobody else has said as much.

 

[Insomnia]

Buco J100 on cafe racer pattern
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...nned-horsehide-for-aero-jackets.77738/page-58
#1154

 

[eugenesque]

That's a good thought--but can't we go the reverse route and take a J-100, then customize that to fit more like a cafe racer? I understand that jackets are based on patterns, but maybe I overestimate the amount of deviation one can do from a stock pattern size.

I think reverse engineering should be possible. I customised a BR to look some what like a CR by, amongst other things, reducing the back length. The exceess space at your waist might be resolved by tapered fit of the CR. Perhaps you should try adding length to the CR and altering the zipper location to get the BR feel. Do note that CRs' shoulder and chest sizes are slightly different from the BR, hence I suggest getting a CR fit jacket to try out the sizing before committing to a certain size. Usually most people would be able to go one size smaller in a CR.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

Buco J100 on cafe racer pattern
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...nned-horsehide-for-aero-jackets.77738/page-58
#1154

Thanks a lot for this!! This is great info--I would assume it's possible to do a Buco J-100 style based off a cafe racer pattern, but it's great to see a finished product.

Now, is the main difference between a cafe racer and a board racer that the cafe racer is tapered?

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

I think reverse engineering should be possible. I customised a BR to look some what like a CR by, amongst other things, reducing the back length. The exceess space at your waist might be resolved by tapered fit of the CR. Perhaps you should try adding length to the CR and altering the zipper location to get the BR feel. Do note that CRs' shoulder and chest sizes are slightly different from the BR, hence I suggest getting a CR fit jacket to try out the sizing before committing to a certain size. Usually most people would be able to go one size smaller in a CR.

This is a great suggestion. So what are the main differences between the cafe racer and board racer?

I think, as a starting point, I will try one size down on the J-100 board racer style. Upon closer inspection, I realized I have more room in the chest than I thought, so maybe sizing down will do the trick.

If that's not satisfactory, then I will consider switching over to the cafe racer pattern instead.

 

[RMF308]

The bi-swing back is one of the major differences. Also the taper from chest to waist in the CR seems a bit more than is typical of other Aeros. Make sure you confirm the waist size opening on an Aero CR size that you buy as it's narrow. I have a pretty thin build (5-11, 165pds, 40 chest, 34 waist) and the waist opening on a size 38 was about 37.5 inches, I could barely zip it up over jeans with a heavy belt. I've never had this problem with any other jackets. I ended up selling it and going with Aero BR in 40.

Here are the exact measurements of the CR that I sold http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-aero-cafe-racer-black-vicenza-horsehide-38.86871/

 

[eugenesque]

This is a great suggestion. So what are the main differences between the cafe racer and board racer?

I think, as a starting point, I will try one size down on the J-100 board racer style. Upon closer inspection, I realized I have more room in the chest than I thought, so maybe sizing down will do the trick.

If that's not satisfactory, then I will consider switching over to the cafe racer pattern instead.

The following are the main differences that I am aware of. Note that these are the differences for Aero's CR and BR. I would be grateful for fellow loungers to point out any errors.

Fit - CR is a lot more tapered than BR. BR is more of a straight fit.
Main zipper - Bottom of zipper ends slightly higher in the BR, hence there is some flaring. CR's zipper goes all the way to the bottom
Bi swing - CR has a bi-swing. BR's back is clean, save for the middle seam. J-100 doesn't have the middle seam.
Sleeve zippers - CR's sleeve zippers are covered by a piping. BR's sleeve zippers are some what more exposed.
Collar - CR's collar is symmetrical in that the snap is situated right in the middle. BR's snap is situated on one side. However, I believe the J-100's snap collar is also somewhat symmetrical.

Most of the differences, save for the fit, can be customized. Hence, you can essentially choose a CR with the BR's customisations and vice versa.

I personally like the look of the CR but preferred the fit of the BR. Hence, I ordered a BR and requested for a shorter length and customised the zippers to go all the way to the bottom so as to reduce flaring. The tapered fit of the CR really wasn't very flattering on me.

 

[devilish]

I don’t have an Aero J-100 but a GW one. I think the problem may be the basic jacket pattern when new? I have found it completely went away after wearing the jacket for awhile. Especially sitting down. The back has now curved to my shape. I understand though that this is risk to take if not sure? Like Sloan said, talk to Carrie. Show her the photos and I’m sure it can get sorted. Just a bit of tailoring is needed.

 

[Fanch]

Although I have never even seen a Board Racer, as far as I can determine, one of the essential differences between the Cafe Racer and Board Racer is the lack of side panels on the Board Racer that can, in fact, be added to or subtracted from the Cafe Racer pattern to fine tune the fit in the torso/waist area. In my case I found the size 42 Cafe Racer was a perfect fit in the chest and shoulders but needed 2" added to the circumference of the waist (1" added to each side panel) for what turned out to be the best fitting jackets, both Sheenes, that I have ever worn. As I've said before, a size 44 Board Racer might be a great fit for me, but who knows?

 

[ProteinNerd]

Having owned a few of both, apart from the mentioned significant taper of the CR is the shoulder width. Even for a similar pit to pit measurement, the BR will have significantly narrower shoulders than the CR even if you size so they have the same pit to pit.

 

[Fanch]

Having owned a few of both, apart from the mentioned significant taper of the CR is the shoulder width. Even for a similar pit to pit measurement, the BR will have significantly narrower shoulders than the CR even if you size so they have the same pit to pit.

@ProteinNerd between the CR and BR jackets, which of the two is your preference? I have always wondered if the narrow shoulders with the BR would be a problem for me. When I tried on a friend's Premier HWM in size 42, I found both the shoulders and chest to be too tight for comfort, especially the shoulders. Theoretically an Aero size 42 should fit me no matter what the design, but I found the 1930's Slim Fit Half Belt and Cafe Racer in size 42 work best, a size 42 in the Premier Line is too tight, and I am swimming in a size 42 HWM and 1950's Half Belt.

 

[Rich22]

I'm trying to spec quite a similar jacket with Aero at the moment, making a Cafe Racer look more like a J-100. I think the Board Racer has an advantage for me in its chest to shoulder ratio- the shoulders aren't so wide, while the Cafe Racer tends towards extra wide shoulders. The BR does not taper nearly as much, and lacks the attractive shape the side panels afford with the CR.

Comparing the backs of the Aero J-100 and the original Buco, the yoke sits lower on the Aero, so I'd have them move it up so it doesn't meet at the same point the sleeve seam connects with the body. I'd curve it a tad too, but that's purely a personal preference.

@Fanch I think the board racer would fit you very very well, if you sized up to get the same pit to pit size as you currently enjoy with the Sheene's.

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

I don’t have an Aero J-100 but a GW one. I think the problem may be the basic jacket pattern when new? I have found it completely went away after wearing the jacket for awhile. Especially sitting down. The back has now curved to my shape. I understand though that this is risk to take if not sure? Like Sloan said, talk to Carrie. Show her the photos and I’m sure it can get sorted. Just a bit of tailoring is needed.

Thanks for the input--yes, I also theorized initially that some of that bagginess in the back was due to the initial stiffness of the leather, even though it's Vicenza. At any rate, I will try one size down, as I found that even though the front of the jacket looks like a pretty trim fit, I actually have a fair amount of room in the chest!

 

[SklounstDraxxer]

Having owned a few of both, apart from the mentioned significant taper of the CR is the shoulder width. Even for a similar pit to pit measurement, the BR will have significantly narrower shoulders than the CR even if you size so they have the same pit to pit.

Good point, and Carrie confirmed that. I'm not sure that would work for me in particular.