Aero Bootlegger fit advice for new buy

[Wardo1974]

Good evening,

I'm in the process of finalizing an Aero buy on a new Bootlegger. I am wondering if I can get some advice on the sizing.

I've bought and sold several used Aeros over the last few years. The sizing was always wrong. Sleeves (too short, too tight) and shoulders (too tight).

Now that I'm going new and can get any size I want, I'm at a loss for what the shoulders should measure. I think I've got the rest dialed in.

I want a jacket I can put a light to medium sweater under. Aero has gone back and forth with me on the jacket and we've decided on a 42 tagged Bootlegger with sleeves from the 44 (wider)

The P2P is supposed to be 24.5 - 24.75. my expanded chest is 46".

Bottom hem, 20.5".
Sleeve, 27 to 27.5 depending on what my shoulder width will be.

My shoulders measure 50", with the tape around me like a chest measurement, and at the widest point of my delt, arms hanging loosely.

In the attached pics, this is me in a brown Hooch Hauler (that I'm selling in the classifieds) with 19" shoulders. It feels way too snug for me. The arms are very tight as well incidentally.

The black Hooch Hauler I'm wearing has 19.5" shoulders. It's...not bad in a t shirt but it always feels a tad narrow to me. I feel my shoulders stretching the jacket there. But this is the closest to a good fit I've found in a used Aero.

Aero suggested 20" shoulders. Is this enough to make a difference? I'm wondering about 20.5 or even 21, in FQHH.

If you guys can help me out, I'd really appreciate it.

 

[El Marro]

you and I have very similar chest and shoulder measurements and I usually like a jacket that has a 20.5” shoulder width. .
This can be a tricky measurement, though, because depending on how the arms attach to the jacket, you may be able to get by with a smaller shoulder seam measurement and still have plenty of room.

 

[Wardo1974]

Yes...I know. Some jacket designs have measurements a lot different.

 

[MrProper]

The shoulder width looks appropriate in the pictures. If they still feel too tight, I would ask myself if the aero patterns are suitable for my physique.
If you don't understand the reason matching shoulders feel too tight, could it be that an extra inch doesn't necessarily solve the problem?

 

[Tom71]

Hm, pure guesswork, here.

I also think the shoulders LOOK good in the picture. The restrictive feeling may have a differnet reson then. If you take a close-up of your first picture (hands in pockets) it appears that there´s some strain where the armhole attaches to the body of the jacket. Could well be that the source of the binding feeling comes from the armholes just being to narrow. I do have that issue in a Board Racer which otherwise fits perfectly.

Personally I find that if I have the P2P dialed in, shouler is less of an issue, but I know that others see it differently.

 

[Carlos840]

Good evening,

I'm in the process of finalizing an Aero buy on a new Bootlegger. I am wondering if I can get some advice on the sizing.

I've bought and sold several used Aeros over the last few years. The sizing was always wrong. Sleeves (too short, too tight) and shoulders (too tight).

Now that I'm going new and can get any size I want, I'm at a loss for what the shoulders should measure. I think I've got the rest dialed in.

I want a jacket I can put a light to medium sweater under. Aero has gone back and forth with me on the jacket and we've decided on a 42 tagged Bootlegger with sleeves from the 44 (wider)

The P2P is supposed to be 24.5 - 24.75. my expanded chest is 46".

Bottom hem, 20.5".
Sleeve, 27 to 27.5 depending on what my shoulder width will be.

My shoulders measure 50", with the tape around me like a chest measurement, and at the widest point of my delt, arms hanging loosely.

In the attached pics, this is me in a brown Hooch Hauler (that I'm selling in the classifieds) with 19" shoulders. It feels way too snug for me. The arms are very tight as well incidentally.

The black Hooch Hauler I'm wearing has 19.5" shoulders. It's...not bad in a t shirt but it always feels a tad narrow to me. I feel my shoulders stretching the jacket there. But this is the closest to a good fit I've found in a used Aero.

Aero suggested 20" shoulders. Is this enough to make a difference? I'm wondering about 20.5 or even 21, in FQHH.

If you guys can help me out, I'd really appreciate it.

All i can say is Aero sizing is confusing at best...

My chest is 41", my Bootleggers are size 40 with a 24.5" pit to pit and they fit me well.
Here are the measurements of both my Bootleggers, size 40, stock other than using the STF sleeves (thinner sleeves):

Pit to pit: 24.5”
Back length: 26”
Front length: 22”
Bottom hem: 20”
Shoulders: 19.5"
Arms length:26.5”

I don't understand how now a size 44 Bootlegger is so similar to a 40 Bootlegger...

 

[Wardo1974]

Hm, pure guesswork, here.

I also think the shoulders LOOK good in the picture. The restrictive feeling may have a differnet reson then. If you take a close-up of your first picture (hands in pockets) it appears that there´s some strain where the armhole attaches to the body of the jacket. Could well be that the source of the binding feeling comes from the armholes just being to narrow. I do have that issue in a Board Racer which otherwise fits perfectly.

Personally I find that if I have the P2P dialed in, shouler is less of an issue, but I know that others see it differently.

Well, these are Hooch Hauler jackets. They have higher armholes and narrower sleeves, so there is indeed strain where you mention for me. The bicep of the jacket is 8" across. My flexed bicep is about 17", so the arms are very tight and inappropriate for me. The small arm hole means my shoulder is tight too.

Which is why I'm getting a Bootlegger. A size 44 BL has a 8.75" bicep, and the armhole would then be larger. The black jacket in the pic has a 8.5" bicep which feels pretty good, so I think the 44 sleeve will be even better.

It's just that shoulder I need right.

 

[ton312]

A size 42” bootlegger is a large jacket. A size 44” is enormous. The bootlegger is a 50’s HB with a crosszip front. I’ve had (ahem) a few of them. All size 40” I’m 5’11” between 195-210lbs over the years. I’m general I would say you can expect what Carlos posted above for a size 40”. That said I did own one that measure considerably smaller. Like a true 40”.

A size 42” I would expect 20” shoulder, 25.5” p2p. Size 44” J would expect 21” shoulder and 26.5” P2P. I just guessing based on experience with a size 40” in Aero’s 50’s pattern black.

Bootleggers(40”)
With 1/2” trimmed from waist:

Standard, no deviation except for length:

With 1/2” added to side panels:

From top to bottom the chest measured:
24”
23.5”
25”
The bottom jacket felt slightly too big for my preference. I ordered it after receiving a used bootlegger that was tagged and felt like a true size 40”.

 

[Wardo1974]

All i can say is Aero sizing is confusing at best...

My chest is 41", my Bootleggers are size 40 with a 24.5" pit to pit and they fit me well.
Here are the measurements of both my Bootleggers, size 40, stock other than using the STF sleeves (thinner sleeves):

Pit to pit: 24.5”
Back length: 26”
Front length: 22”
Bottom hem: 20”
Shoulders: 19.5"
Arms length:26.5”

I don't understand how now a size 44 Bootlegger is so similar to a 40 Bootlegger...

Your BL is the same size as my black size 44 Hooch Hauler, identical. Except my sleeves are 27.5 on the black one.

 

[Wardo1974]

A size 42” bootlegger is a large jacket. A size 44” is enormous. The bootlegger is a 50’s HB with a crosszip front. I’ve had (ahem) a few of them. All size 40” I’m 5’11” between 195-210lbs over the years. I’m general I would say you can expect what Carlos posted above for a size 40”. That said I did own one that measure considerably smaller. Like a true 40”.

A size 42” I would expect 20” shoulder, 25.5” p2p. Size 44” J would expect 21” shoulder and 26.5” P2P. I just guessing based on experience with a size 40” in Aero’s 50’s pattern black.

Bootleggers(40”)
With 1/2” trimmed from waist:
View attachment 476285
Standard, no deviation except for length:
View attachment 476286
With 1/2” added to side panels:
View attachment 476287
From top to bottom the chest measured:
24”
23.5”
25”
The bottom jacket felt slightly too big for my preference. I ordered it after receiving a used bootlegger that was tagged and felt like a true size 40”.

Aero sent me your pics when asking about desired fit. Ha ha! World famous in obscure jacket circles.

The 44 BL will be far too large, yep. The P2P I was told is 25.5, which is 5 inches bigger than my expanded chest.

The 42 I was told to expect 24.5-24.75. I can request a custom shoulder without changing the pattern...my black HH is 19.5, so I wasn't sure what to do with here.

 

[ton312]

Aero sent me your pics when asking about desired fit. Ha ha! World famous in obscure jacket circles.

The 44 BL will be far too large, yep. The P2P I was told is 25.5, which is 5 inches bigger than my expanded chest.

The 42 I was told to expect 24.5-24.75. I can request a custom shoulder without changing the pattern...my black HH is 19.5, so I wasn't sure what to do with here.

That’s interesting. The 42” that I have seen all measured larger. I would leave the 19.5” shoulder. The width (1/2” anyway) is not as important as the armhole diameter, which is far larger on the 50’s block vs the premier. I had a 44” PHWM and the sleeves were very trim. Too trim for CXL and that made the jacket a drag to wear. I d say stick 42” and worry about the lengths and hem diameter (if you want it to taper vs flare). The Halfbelt Aero makes does provide for a nice range of fit in the torso.

 

[Wardo1974]

That’s interesting. The 42” that I have seen all measured larger. I would leave the 19.5” shoulder. The width (1/2” anyway) is not as important as the armhole diameter, which is far larger on the 50’s block vs the premier. I had a 44” PHWM and the sleeves were very trim. Too trim for CXL and that made the jacket a drag to wear. I d say stick 42” and worry about the lengths and hem diameter (if you want it to taper vs flare). The Halfbelt Aero makes does provide for a nice range of fit in the torso.

I'm confused a bit about the armhole. Is it directly related to the bicep or is it something else?

Like, would a Hooch Hauler sleeve with 8.5-8.75 bicep have a smaller armhole than a Bootlegger with the same bicep measurement?

 

[jacketjunkie]

My size 38 BL had 23+“ pit to pit, just in line with Tonys and Charles sizing observations. Unless they changed the sizing, a 42 should have 25.5“ ptp.

I also agree with MrProper, if you feel restricted in the shoulders even though they are sufficiently wide in pictures, maybe just going wider won‘t solve the issue, tailoring is more complex than that, it‘s not just two dimensional measuring. You may want to consider alternatives.

 

[Wardo1974]

My size 38 BL had 23+“ pit to pit, just in line with Tonys and Charles sizing observations. Unless they changed the sizing, a 42 should have 25.5“ ptp.

I also agree with MrProper, if you feel restricted in the shoulders even though they are sufficiently wide in pictures, maybe just going wider won‘t solve the issue, tailoring is more complex than that, it‘s not just two dimensional measuring. You may want to consider alternatives.

Well, I have. My original Aero order was going to be another Hooch Hauler, but because of the shoulder and arm issues they suggested the BL.

So now I'm wondering if the BL has a larger arm hole than the HH even if the bicep/sleeve is the same...which might solve my problem if so.

 

[ton312]

I'm confused a bit about the armhole. Is it directly related to the bicep or is it something else?

Like, would a Hooch Hauler sleeve with 8.5-8.75 bicep have a smaller armhole than a Bootlegger with the same bicep measurement?

The bootlegger has significantly larger armholes. They are cut lower. I’m assuming of course the Hooch Hauler is like the premier line of jackets.

 

[Wardo1974]

The bootlegger has significantly larger armholes. They are cut lower. I’m assuming of course the Hooch Hauler is like the premier line of jackets.

Maybe then I should stick with 19.5 shoulders or perhaps 20 then.

Aero explained to me that the Hooch Hauler is yes, like the premier. Thinner sleeves and higher arm holes.

Well, I hope it works...I'm tired of getting Aeros in the mail and learning after 10 seconds that it doesn't fit!

 

[Wardo1974]

Well, it came and I'm happy.

The collar folded or something in transit, so it won't lay flat just yet. The rest is loosening quickly; break in is much harder with selvedge jeans.

I wanted a fit that could give me a bit of room for a light sweater, but still get away with a t-shirt. I wasn't going to ever get the "ton312 fit", because I live in Canada and I simply have to have the ability to layer. Besides, I have a couple others for the Tony fit if I want.

So this one is:

20" shoulder
24" P2P
21" hem
27.5" sleeve.

Antique brass, delete epaulets, cotton drill.

 

[Wardo1974]

I forgot to mention, it's tagged a 42, and I asked for the sleeves from a 44 Bootlegger. They have 8.75" biceps. If you look at my pic in the first post, those sleeves are 8.25 and too tight.

 

[IrishStu]

Well, it came and I'm happy.

The collar folded or something in transit, so it won't lay flat just yet. The rest is loosening quickly; break in is much harder with selvedge jeans.

I wanted a fit that could give me a bit of room for a light sweater, but still get away with a t-shirt. I wasn't going to ever get the "ton312 fit", because I live in Canada and I simply have to have the ability to layer. Besides, I have a couple others for the Tony fit if I want.

So this one is:

20" shoulder
24" P2P
21" hem
27.5" sleeve.

Antique brass, delete epaulets, cotton drill.

The style and colour are fantastic. Enjoy the jacket.

 

[TartuWolf]

@Wardo1974
Looks amazing on you, more pics please!