Aero 1930s Halfbelt Slim Fit / Luftwaffe clone planned

[Rudie]

Hi everybody, this is my first post on this board.

I'm planning to commission a 1930s Halfbelt / Luftwaffe clone. I'd appreciate your suggestions to make this the best leather jacket ever.

Initially I wanted to buy an Eastman Luftwaffe jacket. Unfortunately, they are not willing to lengthen sleeves more than 4 cm compared to their regular sizes. As I am slim with pretty long arms this wouldn't have worked for me. A 42 would be okay in the chest and shoulders, but too wide in the waist and even with a 42XL the sleeves would have been too short by a mile or so.

As I love halfbelted jackets (had one made bespoke this summer from vintage 1940s wool gabardine) I am now counting on Aero to adjust their 1930s halfbelt a little bit. Or maybe not just a little bit.

I have the following in mind:

- 1930s Halfbelt Slim Fit pattern in brown horsehide. Softest skins available. I haven't made up my mind yet if I should go for FQHH or their medium weight. I don't drive a motorcycle and want to be able to wear it in spring and fall, not only in winter.
- Front and back must have the same length.
- I'd like to have high armholes for better movement (if they aren't by default).
- A more dynamic collar curve than their standard collar. Similar to Goodwear's Ventura jacket:

- Collar strap with press studs like the Eastman Lufwaffe jacket has:

- Buckle front closure with press studs similar to the Luftwaffe jacket. A buckle like Aero use for their Trail Rider jacket minus the pin should also work.

- Lining in olive gabardine
- Sleeves lined in satin
- Sleeves narrow and tapered (if they aren't by default).
- Leather lined cuffs with cuff straps instead of standard button closure, similar to the Goodwear Ventura:

- Two zippered horizontal chest pockets
- Two slanted handwarmer pockets
- One or two vertical inside pockets in the facing with stud closure
- 2 inch leather facing on the inside bottom hem
- All zippers and buckles nickel

What do you think? Thanks for your feedback, especially if you have previous order experience with Aero.

 

[Edward]

Sounds good - actually, pretty close to what I'm planning for when I have the cash to go for a black Thirties Halfbelt. As a point of reference, you might want to point them to their Route 66 model, as it has a number of these features that you (and I!) would like to add to the Thirties Halfbelt.

Throat latch on the 66 is a button, but you could have that changed I'm sure:

Route 66 cuffs:

If you're looking a lighter weight hide, I'd give serious consideration to the goat Aero use in their goatskin A2. Really tough stuff, but much more supple than FQHH.

 

[JanSolo]

Tach, Rudie and welcome to this place!

You jacket sounds very doable to me. The little throat tab you mentioned is also to be found on Aero's Cossack. But I have to disagree on the buckle. A buckle on the hem only makes sense if the side adjuster buckles are on the same level. (See Highwayman, or Eastman's Luftwaffe jacket) On the 1930s HB pattern the side adjusters are on the same level as the false halfbelt on the back i.e higher on the waist. This is were the jacket's circumference is most narrow! Below that line the jacket slightly flares (even with front and back having the same length). If I were you I would stay away from that buckle as it really doesn't make any sense on this pattern. It might even look silly.
If the buckle is a must I would create your jacket on a different stock pattern...maybe a Cafe Racer or HG-5.

Anyway, just my two cents...

Allet jute aus Ostwestfalen.

 

[Rudie]

Hm, das hatte ich nicht bedacht. Good point, Jan. I'll have to reconsider this. Too bad, I really dig these buckles...

The biggest problem I see is if Aero are willing to change the collar pattern, as this is a little more complex, I believe.

Thanks, Edward, I didn't realize the Route 66 had these features already. Should make everything much easier.

Concerning goatskin. Is it true that goatskin doesn't develop a patina? Even if it's tough yet supple I wouldn't want my jacket to look like new after years of use...

 

[JanSolo]

I don't see why the collar should be a problem. The all-leather version of the M422a collar already looks like the one you posted. It's basically slightly longer and more pointed and has a better drape.

Goatskin and Goatskin, eh?! It's true: Goatskin is very abrasion resistant due to a very dense collagen top layer of the skin. But you simply cannot compare current milspec chrome tanned pigment dyed goat (which is used in various mid price jackets) to Aero's super thick veg tanned goatskin which does only have a very thin seal pray finish over milk coffee base. It will show lighter spots and it will develop patina, creases and folds... but it will take a little longer.
If I were you I would either go with the real deal (brown FQHH) or veg tanned seal goat. Their mid weight horse isn't really that much lighter but it slightly lacks the beautiful aging characteristics and it isn't water-proof at all. FQHH is and goat doesn't mind if it gets wet as long as you use a good conditioner afterwards (Elephant leather preserver or Pecard's).

 

[Cooperson]

Hello Rudie and welcome to the forum. Your jacket sounds good but I would be very interested to hear what Aero say about changing the arm design. Most Aero patterns tend to have low armholes and quite full upper arms and I was always under the impression they couldn't change that. Could you report back when you get your reply?

 

[Rudie]

Hello Cooperson, I'll post their reply here. I am sure they could change the armholes, but the big question is if they are willing to do it. It would be a major change in the pattern. On the other hand, when ordering from Magnoli you can specify your armhole size and they adjust the patterns accordingly. So maybe Aero offer the same service when you ask for it.

Jan, thanks for the info about leather qualities and the collar design.

 

[Edward]

I don't know, it seems to me that Aero's 'low armhole' reputation in some quarters may be a touch overstated. On my 30s halfbelt especially, I don't know that it would be comfortable to have it any higher. [huh]

BTW.... does anyone know offhand whether seal is the only colour Aero do their goatskin in?

 

[JanSolo]

BTW.... does anyone know offhand whether seal is the only colour Aero do their goatskin in?

They offer a really redish russet as well.

As for the armholes...Edward is right. The 1930s HB already has quite high armholes and the sleeves on my jacket are tight as well. If you really want extra tight sleeves you could mention that on your spec sheet. You could write something like: "Slimmed down upper sleeve portion (Japanese configuration)"

 

[Rudie]

Glad to hear the armholes are high already. It makes sense, as armholes used to be high by default back in the 30s.

On the pictures I have seen so far the sleeves indeed look pretty roomy, especially the upper part. What do you mean by Japanese configuration, Jan? Is it a special Japanese custom to make trim upper sleeves?

 

[JanSolo]

Some Japanese vendors have ordered Aeros with slimmer sleeves to accomodate the slender built of their customers. Just mention that you want really trim upper sleeves. It could also help to order a true two piece sleeve like on the HG-5. Most civilian Aeros do have two piece back sleeve config. with a small extra panel just below the shoulder joint.

 

[l'oreille]

I just wanted to chime in by saying that Jan's suggestion for slimmed-down sleeves is a splendid idea. I selected that option on my bootlegger, and it works like a treat to prevent the "sagging arms"-problem. I'm not built like the average Japanese customer - I *am* short, but I have a gym-problem and look like I work on the waterfront rather than in medical science - and the slimmed-down sleeves still look "right". I think the normal cut for the sleeves is a little too generous for anyone who doesn't compete in professional-league body-building contests.

 

[Edward]

They offer a really redish russet as well.

So no black? Bum. Guess my next halfbelt will be steer, then. Nothing wrong with the horse, I just fancy something different the next time.

 

[Rudie]

Great, I'll ask for those Japanese sleeves, then.

Another question. I emailed Aero a week ago and still haven't got a response. Is this normal for Aero or likely due to everybody and their neighbour ordering Christmas presents? Or maybe my email was classified as spam?

 

[l'oreille]

Great, I'll ask for those Japanese sleeves, then.

Another question. I emailed Aero a week ago and still haven't got a response. Is this normal for Aero or likely due to everybody and their neighbour ordering Christmas presents? Or maybe my email was classified as spam?

In my experience with Aero, Amanda always replied to my e-mails within 48 hours. I placed an order last Monday, and got the confirmational e-mail on Tuesday. You might want to check back with them, just to make sure that your e-mail didn't get "lost" in cyberspace...

 

[Rudie]

Thanks, I thought so. I'll try again.

I am wondering if small patch pockets (like Eastman's Hartmann jacket has) instead of the slanted handwarmer pockets would be a good idea.

 

[Bonneville]

Route 66 cuffs:

.

Have to admit that is a splendid looking jacket in cordovan. I think I would have the cuff straps lowered a little though, they always look a little high to me.

 

[Rudie]

I emailed them again on Saturday and still no answer. Strange. Guess I'll call Aero tomorrow or I'll never get my jacket made...

 

[Rudie]

Today I called Aero and ordered the jacket in brown FQHH with true two piece sleeves, trim upper sleeves and without the front buckle, as suggested by Jan. I opted for the Hartmann style flapped lower front pockets instead of the standard handwarmer pockets. Will suggested to have gabardine under the satin sleeves lining, too, to make it more durable. Collar design and armholes are no problem he said.

 

[Edward]

Excellent, look forward to seeing that. With the Aero Thirties halfbelt as popular as it is, when yours arrive we really should get all Loungers who have a variant on this jacket to post photos - I think it would be really interesting to see the variation of features and alterations across the one model.