Advice on new A-2

[thedebonair]

Hello all

This summer I'll be buying (or placing the order) of an A-2, it'll be my first. I already own an Easman G-1 which I absolutely love. I'm currently doubting between Eastman and Goodwear (BK might be possible too, but I heard mixed things about them).
I know Goodwear is highly regarded and ideally I'd like one of his jackets, but if waiting times are still quite high that might not be the best decision. With Eastman I'm doubting between the Werber 1729, HLB, Monarch or RW 1401p contracts. I'm quite tall (185 cm) so I guess a 42 HLB corp would fit me best, but I do love the Werber's design.

Any advice/thoughts is appreciated!

 

[Psant25]

Check out mark at norshor

https://www.norshorleatherjackets.com/jackets/cable-a-2

has other contracts too he said not listed. I Was just emailing him about a MC jacket. He said about 2-3 month lead time now. He has made jackets for John / GW

 

[Psant25]

I had a eastman rw 1401p 2-3 years ago. It was very nice. I 5 ft 10 in tall. Was a little short on me so I sold it.

 

[thedebonair]

I fear for it being too small as well, I think I'll need a Long in every ELC jacket besides the HLB, which would render it unreturnable. The Cable from Norshor looks great, I'm just not that big a fan of that specific contract (collar).

 

[Psant25]

He has patterns for other contracts as well
https://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/sale_cable_0007.html

 

[thedebonair]

That's great, I'll ask him what patterns he also does. Is quality on par with GW/ELC?

 

[Psant25]

I have not owned one. I did reach out to him about a build and thus think he is good or I would not consider. You can do a search on here other members have jackets by Norshor and pretty good praise I think. Pics and leather he uses look good.

 

[Bfd70]

Goodwear is made from unobtainium. Get in the list in the event your grandchild wants one.

 

[El Marro]

Goodwear is made from unobtainium. Get in the list in the event your grandchild wants one.

It’s not quite that bad but if the OP is looking to get a jacket this summer then Good Wear is not an option, unless he finds a used one.
I own a couple of Eastman jackets and I think their quality is top notch. As long as the length is good then Eastman is a great choice.

 

[nick123]

I think the Norshor would be a welcome sight here, and would be interested in seeing one of those.

As far as lengths go, maybe my preferences have changed or my eyes have gone bad but I no longer get tall sizes, rather, size up one size and it seems to work just fine. I’m 6’2”. Sleeves and lengths of my size 44 Werber are perfect. Though I asked Charles to choose the longest of the 44s he had in stock.

 

[thedebonair]

It’s not quite that bad but if the OP is looking to get a jacket this summer then Good Wear is not an option, unless he finds a used one.
I own a couple of Eastman jackets and I think their quality is top notch. As long as the length is good then Eastman is a great choice.

I would go for a GW even if I had to wait half a year up to a year, but I heard waiting times of 3-4 years and that’s not something I’m willing to do

 

[thedebonair]

I think the Norshor would be a welcome sight here, and would be interested in seeing one of those.

As far as lengths go, maybe my preferences have changed or my eyes have gone bad but I no longer get tall sizes, rather, size up one size and it seems to work just fine. I’m 6’2”. Sleeves and lengths of my size 44 Werber are perfect. Though I asked Charles to choose the longest of the 44s he had in stock.

That could work! I’m a 41 inch chest (even though my shoulders are about 20 inches) so that’s why I’d like to stay with a 42… a 44 might be too baggy?

 

[Superfluous]

Real McCoys make some stellar A-2s.

 

[thedebonair]

Real McCoys make some stellar A-2s.

Very true, but slightly out of my pricerange

 

[nick123]

That could work! I’m a 41 inch chest (even though my shoulders are about 20 inches) so that’s why I’d like to stay with a 42… a 44 might be too baggy?

It’s your call. Going up a size falls within the wide variety of WWII fits and it’s certainly my preference, but it may not be your style. Someone mentioned the Werber having slender sleeve ends; I’m noticing that now.
And pay little attention to comments about the Werber having a lighter/thinner horsehide. The recent batches are stiff and not at all thin. Probably more to do with the vegetable tanning. They redid their leather on the Werber some time ago. It still photographs light but it’s not the really light russet color some of the older ones were. Personally I’d prefer thinner to get that authentic drape but not complaining. They look killer once worn in. Keep in mind the Werber collar is huge. If you zip up a lot for that reason I’d opt for a non-Hookless zip contract. I wear mine open.

I love ELC and everyone needs at least one, but a Mark jacket would be special.if you aren’t choosy, see what cowhides Mark has around. Starting to really believe cowhide kills horsehide in most ways. The jackets tend to be less stiff and normally cost a bit less.

 

[thedebonair]

I do like a trim fit, but not that much that I can't properly move my arms. I intend to wear it open for most of the time, so a Werber would also work. The HLB contract looks amazing as well, and has the added length. Problem for me is that I live in Europe and can't get a wide variety of ELC jackets anywhere except from ELC themselves or HPA, which means added customs and VAT taxes. I know of one seller in Paris but they don't have a whole lot and don't do Longs. I also care about pattern accuracy and don't know if Norshor also deliver on that front (they probably do given the great reviews, but I haven't read or heard a lot from them).

 

[Carlos840]

I think the Norshor would be a welcome sight here, and would be interested in seeing one of those.

As far as lengths go, maybe my preferences have changed or my eyes have gone bad but I no longer get tall sizes, rather, size up one size and it seems to work just fine. I’m 6’2”. Sleeves and lengths of my size 44 Werber are perfect. Though I asked Charles to choose the longest of the 44s he had in stock.

I had a disapointing experience with Norshor.
Mark was great to deal with from start to finish, the jacket wasn't great.
He made me a Tweedy Cossack, tried a new way of stitching the collar and he was not happy with the result.
He offered me the jacket at cost, but it had really messy stitching on the collar so i refused and asked for a remake.
He did so, sent me the new jacket, it was at least one size too large, the sleeves had a really weird curvature that twisted around my arms, and one of the sleeves had pretty bad puckering on the inner arm stitch line.
Overall the jacket felt like a shapeless bag, construction was ok but not great.
More disappointing, none of the measurements he gave me before shipping where accurate...

At that point after paying around 300$ in shipping and import taxes i decided to cut my losses and send the jacket back for a refund, i was not convinced a remake would have sorted out the issues i had with the jacket, and i didn't want to ask for a third remake and risk not being happy with it whilst paying import taxes a second time.

I still think his jackets are pretty good value for money, but if you are paying international shipping and import taxes you are IMO taking a risk.

Edit:

Just saw the jacket i sent back on his Facebook, you can see the puckering on the left sleeve, like the two pieces of leather where not held tight when the sleeve was stitched.

The jacket fits this dude much better than it fit me, it looked huge on me, literally hung shapelessly.

 

[thedebonair]

I had a disapointing experience with Norshor.
Mark was great to deal with from start to finish, the jacket wasn't great.
He made me a Tweedy Cossack, tried a new way of stitching the collar and he was not happy with the result.
He offered me the jacket at cost, but it had really messy stitching on the collar so i refused and asked for a remake.
He did so, sent me the new jacket, it was at least one size too large, the sleeves had a really weird curvature that twisted around my arms, and one of the sleeves had pretty bad puckering on the inner arm stitch line.
Overall the jacket felt like a shapeless bag, construction was ok but not great.
More disappointing, none of the measurements he gave me before shipping where accurate...

At that point after paying around 300$ in shipping and import taxes i decided to cut my losses and send the jacket back for a refund, i was not convinced a remake would have sorted out the issues i had with the jacket, and i didn't want to ask for a third remake and risk not being happy with it whilst paying import taxes a second time.

I still think his jackets are pretty good value for money, but if you are paying international shipping and import taxes you are IMO taking a risk.

Edit:

Just saw the jacket i sent back on his Facebook, you can see the puckering on the left sleeve, like the two pieces of leather where not held tight when the sleeve was stitched.

Wow okay, a lot to unpack here, thanks for answering extensively! I indeed do not want to take a risk with VAT, I'd like it to be perfect from the start (then again, doesn't everyone haha).
I'll happily pay a little more for great stitching/accuracy so maybe Eastman/BK might be better after all. Do you have any thoughts on who you esteem to be the best in continental Europe and UK?
I just had a look at BK's site and the fact that no 'surplus' VAT is charged (no double taxes as some UK makers do) means that I could order a Dubow 27798/RW 23380 in Shinki for 200 euros less than Eastman...

 

[Tom71]

Wow okay, a lot to unpack here, thanks for answering extensively! I indeed do not want to take a risk with VAT, I'd like it to be perfect from the start (then again, doesn't everyone haha).
I'll happily pay a little more for great stitching/accuracy so maybe Eastman/BK might be better after all. Do you have any thoughts on who you esteem to be the best in continental Europe and UK?
I just had a look at BK's site and the fact that no 'surplus' VAT is charged (no double taxes as some UK makers do) means that I could order a Dubow 27798/RW 23380 in Shinki for 200 euros less than Eastman...

I don´t have any experience with BK, but I do re Eastman (an A2 in their "house" version slender). Despite more recent price raises I would like to echo what @nick123 has said: You will certainly not make a mistake going with Eastman. I find their leather (in my case horsehide; the non-"timeworn" variant) especially nice. As concerns size and fit, the "size-calculator" on the website is a sound departure point, and the team is very helpful and generally very fast in answering detailed questions.

 

[breezer]

Aero are able to add an inch to body & sleeves.......no problem.