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Advice on lining needed

JumpBoot

One of the Regulars
Messages
140
Location
Alaska
Greetings, everyone. I hope you had a great Thanksgiving, for those of us who celebrate it.
I have a question and I'm hoping you all might be able to help. I've decided to replace and upgrade the US Wings Indy jacket I bought when I joined the military years ago. Bill Kelso has one available, but the options for linings leave me wondering.
I live in Alaska, but I travel frequently and this jacket (like its predecessor) will go with me all over the world. I'm looking at the tartan wool or silk linings because I think they're kind of snazzy, but I'm hoping someone might be able to give me the best option for a lining material that won't cook me out in the warmer months and won't cause me to freeze to death in our winters.

What do you fine folks suggest?
 

coloradorider

One of the Regulars
Messages
182
Location
Denver, CO
What do you fine folks suggest?

I really like the rayon lining I have in a few jackets. It's very slick so it's easy to layer under and it's quite comfortable when you layer under it. I imagine silk would behave similarly.

I've got tartans and cotton drill in most of my jackets and sometimes I'll wear a sweater or shirt that wants to stick to the fabric and it's a PITA as your shirt crawl up inside your jacket or sweater sleeves walk up your arms as you move around. I can't wear some of my sweaters with tartans or cotton drill for this reason.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
Cotton drill (such as used by Aero Leather Clothing) is probably the most versatile lining and will outlast any other. I have never had any issues with drill over 35 years of buying leather jackets. Warmth is best achieved by what you wear under the jacket through layering.

Getting a robust leather will be important. The standard Kelso lamb is not all that strong and remember they are copying a movie costume made of light materials for a reason. If you must get an Indy why not have it made in goat?
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,459
Location
South of Nashville
Greetings, everyone. I hope you had a great Thanksgiving, for those of us who celebrate it.
I have a question and I'm hoping you all might be able to help. I've decided to replace and upgrade the US Wings Indy jacket I bought when I joined the military years ago. Bill Kelso has one available, but the options for linings leave me wondering.
I live in Alaska, but I travel frequently and this jacket (like its predecessor) will go with me all over the world. I'm looking at the tartan wool or silk linings because I think they're kind of snazzy, but I'm hoping someone might be able to give me the best option for a lining material that won't cook me out in the warmer months and won't cause me to freeze to death in our winters.

What do you fine folks suggest?
You won't find one lining that will satisfy your variable temperature needs. The tartans aren't that warm (for Alaska and other cold climates), and the silk is like no lining at all. I have a tartan in my Aero Sheene, and it is OK for temps in the 40s and above. You could try a tartan, and as Seb says, layer under it for warmth. Even so, that combination wouldn't keep me warm in Alaska. You guys have B-3 weather up there. And I agree that goat is the way for you to go. Leave the lamb alone.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,601
Location
California
Happy Thanksgiving JumpBoot!
If I had to choose between silk and wool I think I would probably choose the wool. I have a wool tartan lining in my Aero Bootlegger and I do not find it to be too warm on mild days. Silk lining feels great but I'd be afraid it would not be warm enough for cooler weather.
 

coloradorider

One of the Regulars
Messages
182
Location
Denver, CO
Cotton drill (such as used by Aero Leather Clothing) is probably the most versatile lining and will outlast any other. I have never had any issues with drill over 35 years of buying leather jackets.

You're luckier than me. Both linings I have an issue with are textured like a fine corduroy (one drill and one heavy tartan). If I wear a light sweater under them the sweater cuffs end up over my elbows eventually...

Great advice all around to go with the goatskin.
 

JumpBoot

One of the Regulars
Messages
140
Location
Alaska
I appreciate all of the feedback very much. Thanks, gents. I was thinking either goatskin or horse.
 

BobJ

Practically Family
Messages
609
Location
Coos Bay, OR
If you're going to do a lot of travelling with this jacket, don't get a warm lining. It will make the jacket less versatile for wearing on airplanes, walking through airports, and using in more temperate climates.

Think of your jacket as a shell, under which you can layer. With just a fleece vest under my jacket - which is lined with cotton drill - I can easily be comfortable down into the forties. And, without a vest, I can be comfortable wearing it while watching a movie or walking around in a mall.

I often wear it over wool sweaters and flannel shirts, and have never had the problem of 'sleeve creep'. Maybe that has to do with how narrow the sleeves are cut - mine are fairly loose.
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
I've found there not to be a massive amount of difference in warmth between wool and cotton linings, the former is slightly warmer but that's all. It's down to the jumper you layer under it. The great thing about a heavy leather jacket is the wind/water protection it gives you.
 

Stand By

One Too Many
Messages
1,741
Location
Canada
When I ordered an ANJ-3 from Aero, it came with their standard A2 cotton lining - which I'll admit didn't impress me as much as the rest of the other elements of the jacket. The jacket was too small, so I asked for the replacement to be made with a lining of something else. I considered satin/rayon (as some original ANJ-3s had them) but I wanted something more durable and more breathable. They sent me cotton swatches to look at and feel; and then they said that they'd just taken delivery of a brand new cotton that was on the heavier side and in a great Chestnut colour - and if memory serves, it was for their Indy jacket. They sent me a swatch and I opted for that.
And I'm so glad that I did! The heavy cotton twill is perfect for my jacket. It's slightly warmer than the cotton, durable, feels pleasant on my skin if I'm wearing a T- or polo shirt and is totally in keeping with an A2 colour (which varied) for a military jacket.
As your jacket has a pseudo/quasi military look, JumpBoot, that's what I'd recommend for you as a consideration.
Best of luck with the hunt!
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
I love the look and feel of Aero's lightweight wool tartans but would recommend cotton drill for function and durability. The cotton drill described by @Stand By in the post above sounds like the ticket. I doubt there would be any noticeable difference in warmth between lightweight wool tartan and cotton drill, and I would choose the latter because of the durability factor if nothing else.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Cotton drill for durability, Moleskin or corduroy for durability and some warmth, tartan if you really must have the look, blanket wool or shearlng for ultimate warmth.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
I've found there not to be a massive amount of difference in warmth between wool and cotton linings, the former is slightly warmer but that's all. It's down to the jumper you layer under it. The great thing about a heavy leather jacket is the wind/water protection it gives you.

I agree that there is very little difference in warmth between even the thickest wool tartan (strome) and the cotton drill when the weather is cold.
But once the weather warms up, the wool tartan becomes very sweaty much faster than cotton.
IMO other than looks, there is very little gain from tartan. It's not really warm enough for winter, but is too warm for spring/autumn.

If i only had one Aero it would be lined in cotton drill. Luckily i have two!


Edit: i briefly had a corduroy lined jacket and didn't like it, it wasn't warm and was super heavy. The Moleskin in the arms did feel great and actually felt warmer than the cord in the body or the Tartan. Full moleskin lining must be super warm and feel like heaven!
 

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