Advice for N1 deck jacket, vintage or repro?

[Oakbark]

They do seem to be adding one extra, larger, size a year in some of the products I've noticed

Yes, I ordered a Bronson as I have a Pike Bros jacket, it was great when I ordred it and we had a month of snow but in Autumn and less wintery conditions it can get a bit too warm at times. Plus I went for an XL in the Pike Bros which means mine is pretty roomy and I figured a Bronson would make a slightly trimmer, lighter jacket I might get more wear out of in between times.

The Bronson is a trimer fitting jacket all round and the materials throughout are a not quite as nice as the Pike Bros I would say. It is half the price of the Pike version of course but comparing the two you can see why.

Very happy with it at the price it is but the Pike Bros jacket feels like something that would be up to military issue whilst the Bronson definitely feels closer to a fashion jacket, for want of a better term.


And wow @4444Design - I thought I was getting carried away ordering a 2nd N1 jacket

I agree again about the 2 different target for Bronson and Pike

 

[Oakbark]

Seein this thread has some readers, I try to ask here if anyone can ID the brand of this jacket.
I guess it's a fashion brand, so it's a mess track it down online.
During my long research the unique brand with some similar features I found was Spiewak for Brook Brothers but I do not think is the same jacket:
Some features I noticed:
-the bottom button is quite high compared to the well know repro we usually talk about.
-same thing for the zip, it's placed quite high.
-it has not the horizontal seam at the bottom of the jacket below the last button
-the kind of patch on the lower part might be a fixing, don't know

Spiewak Brook Brothers version in a different colour

 

[Blackadder]

@4444Design Pike Bros would be the easiest option regarding shipping and returns as they are Europe based: I appreciate the accuracy and quality of their items and of their N1, but I see those sleeves extra wide and I also read several comments on this point.
If I'm not wrong, when I was reading here on the lounge or somewhere else about the n1 jacket, I also read some posts from you and you said you're around 6 ft tall, I repeat I may be wrong, I should check again, but anyway even looking at your pics you look very tall: my legs are not that long for sure I'm 5 8,5 with wide shoulders, so if based of my height I should wear something around size 36/38, most of the times the only jackets that fit me proper are size 40....even 42 sometimes, so they are ok on my chest and shoulders but damn long. Those size jackets are for guyz 2 or 3 inches taller than me so the aesthetic of the same size on them and on me is completely different: same thing for the sleeves.

Pike Bros would be perfect cause are roomy on the chest and short in lenght, while the sleeves are very long an wide even if the width can not be noticed by their size chart:
66 cm for the size S with 58 cm for the chest would be just fine. ( 26 in x 22,5 in ): 66 cm for the sleeves ( long )

View attachment 199000
View attachment 199001


I've to underline I'm too picky and not just for this kind of jacket, but they overly bulky, fuller, out of proportions compared to the lean body part.

Here some pics of a period jacket worn by a tall person View attachment 199002
View attachment 199003

View attachment 199005

Maybe it's even too trim for the way we see historical photos of people wearing a N1, but this jacket it comes from that era, alpaca lining and maybe it got wasted and make the sleeves look slimmer: anyway for a short guy would be a plus.
I would not wear a N1 if looking at the mirror I would resemble like some japanese guyz with their small build wearing their N1 repro.

It looks like a sad story....mine ... I'm used to this issue, but I enjoy hunting for the perfect garment that fit me well.

Looking at those "tall" person photos, I think at least two of those guys are not able to zip up their jackets. They went way down on their sizes to achieve the look. It is sometimes almost impossible to achieve those photo looks unless you are willing to forgo practicality.
Take for example Gosling was wearing only a white tee underneath. I have seen celebs wearing short sleeves tees underneath all kind of heavy jackets even a shearling B-3 type jackets. I don't think that is how most of us normal people dress.

 

[Oakbark]

Looking at those "tall" person photos, I think at least two of those guys are not able to zip up their jackets. They went way down on their sizes to achieve the look. It is sometimes almost impossible to achieve those photo looks unless you are willing to forgo practicality.
Take for example Gosling was wearing only a white tee underneath. I have seen celebs wearing short sleeves tees underneath all kind of heavy jackets even a shearling B-3 type jackets. I don't think that is how most of us normal people dress.

Yes, I got what you mean and it's especially true about celebs wearing leather jackets that never zip up.
In this case the Gosling's jacket seems quite roomy and the weather not so cold, plus he's wearing a backpack in most of the pics and the bag pull back and up; maybe it's for this reason that it may looks too small on him; just my impressions.
From what I read online, the N1 lining both alpaca/ wool or synthetic is very warm so that it would needed some extra layer just if it get freezing.
Where I live rarely goes below 32 F, maybe just 2 weeks, otherwise are winters between 45 / 50 F . I need an N1 no to wear many layers

 

[Bfd70]

thanks @l0fielectronic for comparing the 2 jackets. I have not any of them, but I did some homeworks studying different brands fit and also Pike Bros was on my radar. I noticed it's on the "short side league" both from the size chart and from the outfit pics of people wearing it. My concern about Pike is that I believe they make the widest sleeves among all the n1 repro on the market.
I mean, are very wide and even long I guess. I noticed that even on tall guyz where it should be easier to have an harmonic proportion, but those sleeves mess up the silhouette a bit in my opinion. For short guyz it's a disaster

Disagree with this observation. My PB sleeves are proportional in both length and width. Bare in mind these are patterns from 80 year old military jackets meant to accomodate different body types in the fewest sizes possible. These are not designed to be modern slim fit jackets. Any modern pictures you see that make them look so are likely models wearing one size too small. Cool for pictures. Bad for life.

 

[Bfd70]

Fwiw, I’m 5’10 36 or 37” chest, 33” sleeve length. PB size small fits perfectly. Acc to their chart I’m an xs. Tried one on. Sleeves too small, armpits too tight.

 

[Bfd70]

Here is my favorite pic of that phenomenon. I wish i lived somewhere I’d never have to zipper a jacket or had so much money I could afford to buy one that I couldn’t.
I really wish this was a fashion brand and not an Eastman.
It’s also too dark for sunglasses but what ever.

Looking at those "tall" person photos, I think at least two of those guys are not able to zip up their jackets. They went way down on their sizes to achieve the look. It is sometimes almost impossible to achieve those photo looks unless you are willing to forgo practicality.
Take for example Gosling was wearing only a white tee underneath. I have seen celebs wearing short sleeves tees underneath all kind of heavy jackets even a shearling B-3 type jackets. I don't think that is how most of us normal people dress.

 

[Blackadder]

View attachment 199044
Here is my favorite pic of that phenomenon. I wish i lived somewhere I’d never have to zipper a jacket or had so much money I could afford to buy one that I couldn’t.
I really wish this was a fashion brand and not an Eastman.
It’s also too dark for sunglasses but what ever.

Sunglasses are always on for the camera flashes. LOL.

 

[l0fielectronic]

View attachment 199044
Here is my favorite pic of that phenomenon....

Aw hes just like one of us. Can't even wait for the UPS guy to get back to his van before he's trying on his latest jacket

 

[Oakbark]

View attachment 199044
Here is my favorite pic of that phenomenon. I wish i lived somewhere I’d never have to zipper a jacket or had so much money I could afford to buy one that I couldn’t.
I really wish this was a fashion brand and not an Eastman.
It’s also too dark for sunglasses but what ever.

Being so slim and tall ....I guess he could even size up and zip up the jacket and still looking cool, but I see he knows well the game. Not many people would look cool zipping up a double rider jacket: the proper ingredients in my opionions would be: long legs, slim build, top quality double rider jacket. I remember also Adam Levine often wear that kind of jacket: not Eastman

 

[Bfd70]

I respectfully submit these TFL pictures in disagreement

 

[Oakbark]

5.75 in. Celeb wearing N1 jacket: I guess he's shorter than 5.75 ....

I feel there's something not working: jeans too skinny paired with bulky jacket maybe / skinny and short legs and massive jacket / jacket 1 size bigger / zipped up jacket that by force make it bulker.
The jacket itself has a short cut also considering how wide is it: many other n1 have a longer cut: a longer jacket on his build and with those skinny jeans/short legs would have worsened the aesthetic even more.

like this:

I'm aware the proper cut of a N1 jacket is not a slim fit one

but I think it's not the easiest jacket to wear if one care about the way he looks: it's confy, warm and a great historical garment, that's the reason I'd prefer a period jacket, but for those not very tall, there are some kind of jackets that would be better to avoid in order no to look shorter.
I'd love to find the right n1 jacket for my build, but if I should not, I wont buy one just cause I like it....evene if sometimes I ve bought some pieces of clothing just to own them and keep them in my closet to admire them ( but it's a kind of illness).

Anyway, the proper cut even on a not tall guy....may work very fine:

Also the pants are not as skinny as Theroux jeans

On half body photos anyway it looks better

zipped up period jacket:

 

[Mich486]

No surprises there. Squarzi does it right with whatever clothes he throws on. Theroux should really ditch those skinnies but he dresses cool too.

Imho don’t sweat it too much if you like the style. I don’t think tall/short makes much of a difference with an n1.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Blackadder]

I just remember this jacket that may meet your requirement in terms of sleeves width, length etc. It is way less bulky cos it just has the grosgrain shell, it does not have the lining. Trouble is they don't make them anymore.
https://picclick.co.uk/Ralph-Lauren-Denim-Supply-Rockdale-Vintage-Style-264489614181.html
https://www.letao.com.tw/yahoojp/auctions/item.php?aID=v526632504

 

[l0fielectronic]

I just remember this jacket that may meet your requirement in terms of sleeves width, length etc. It is way less bulky cos it just has the grosgrain shell, it does not have the lining. Trouble is they don't make them anymore.
https://picclick.co.uk/Ralph-Lauren-Denim-Supply-Rockdale-Vintage-Style-264489614181.html

I had one of those unlined Rockdale Denim and Supply jackets. The material of it was first rate and the distressing looked 'realistic' but I just never wore it, it was just a bit too distressed looking for me I think.

Sleeves were quite long from what I recall.

 

[Oakbark]

I just remember this jacket that may meet your requirement in terms of sleeves width, length etc. It is way less bulky cos it just has the grosgrain shell, it does not have the lining. Trouble is they don't make them anymore.
https://picclick.co.uk/Ralph-Lauren-Denim-Supply-Rockdale-Vintage-Style-264489614181.html
https://www.letao.com.tw/yahoojp/auctions/item.php?aID=v526632504

Very nice cut this jacket, Thanks @Blackadder. It looks short on the model, so it should hit the right area in my case as I m shorter than that model.
I guess I will probably end up buying a vintage one first of all cause I m a collector of war era clothing and cafe racer jackets and I need a N1 in order to dress light, with no many layers underneath the jacket. After many online listings I understood that authentic N1 of those times came in different cuts. 2 jackets sizes 38 for instance made by different companies or in different period may be shorter or longer even of 2 inches of difference.
The short versione matches perfectly for my build (chest, Sleeves and back lenght) like made on measure as often happen with some vintage leather cafe racer jackets.
Nowdays most of jackets have a longer cut due to current average height, but also cause it s better for makers to make longer garments as it cover most of the no-picky population. A longer garment is a matter of aestethic, tall guyz look good on those garments, short guyz look less good. But a short garment risk to leave a tall guy half bare back, so it s no longer a matter of pure aestethic, but functionality.
Unfortunately I m too picky so I ve to check well every garment to see if fit well on me otherwise I d have a nice jacket that fit me awfully.
Beside getting a vintage N1 I ll look also for a repro or a variant as that denim & supply type but not distressed as that one

 

[Oakbark]

hitting the right area in terms of lenght in my opinion for an authentic N1 jacket in contemporary style

And yes... He can zip it up

 

[joe mcqueen]

I have been on same quest as Oakbark for over year ... I am 5,9 175 ( 40-42s jackets) so most deck jackets that fit in shoulders and chest are to long .... Oakbark we seem to be looking for the same animal ; did you ever find one ?
Thank you

 

[Vaquero357]

...love my Iron Heart N1!

 

[Bfd70]

...love my Iron Heart N1!

View attachment 311797

I’ve got the same one. Love it. Leaves room to layer and I’m wearingnit own to 20f.
Ps gonna guess ih634 but what about the boots?