Addict Clothes AD-10 in Horsehide

[Winthorpe]

I visited Addict Clothes earlier this summer at their Tokyo store (initial post here) and ordered an AD-10 in horsehide in size 46 with added sleeve length.

It took a little bit less than 4 months for my jacket to be made. Once it it was done Satoshi shipped it out to Seattle via EMS the day after he received it. To my surprise, and delight, it only took 3 days for the jacket to make the trip from Tokyo to Seattle.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

I visited Addict Clothes earlier this summer at their Tokyo store (initial post here) and ordered an AD-10 in horsehide in size 46 with added sleeve length.

It took a little bit less than 4 month for my jacket to be made. Once it it was done Satoshi shipped it out to Seattle via EMS the day after he received it. To my surprise, and delight, it only took 3 days for the jacket to make the trip from Tokyo to Seattle.

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Outstanding!!
How much does this beauty weigh?
Love the pockets. Reminds me of a M-65 Field Jacket.

 

[Winthorpe]

More pictures.

A fit picture too.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Can we see some pics of the back please?
Thanks. Bowen

 

[Winthorpe]

Outstanding!!
How much does this beauty weigh?
Love the pockets.

Thank you. It weighs 3KG (about 6.6LB).

It feels like the pockets contribute to that quite a bit. All the outside pocket flaps are doubled up. They are so thick that I can mold them into wavy shapes... The outside pockets are also all backed by a thick leather strip (those end where you can see the second row of stitching).

I'll try to take pictures of the back tomorrow (hope Seattle can provide one more day of sunshine before the rain moves in).

 

[dudewuttheheck]

That looks awesome! Would love to see shots of the back

 

[barnabus]

What a brute! Looks amazing. I well love that four-pocket International / Trialmaster style.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

That's a hell of a coat Winthorpe.
Good fit.
Congrats
HD

 

[Edward]

Very nice indeed. I've long been a fan of this style of early British motorcycle jacket in the original wax cotton, but as time goes on I'm also increasingly liking it in leather. I have half an eye on the Gold Top rendition in mid-brown, myself. This is beautifully executed; I particularly like the detailing on the inside pocket.

Reminds me of a M-65 Field Jacket.

They're not a million miles away in style, though I'd have said this was closer to the M65's predecessor, the M42 jump jacket. The original of thisstyle of motorcycle jacket was, I believe, the first Barbour International in 1936; Belstaff also produced them. Waxcotton was the first textile used; leather came later. Not sure who did leather first - either Belstaff or Lewis, I should think. Wodnerfully practical jackets. Oddly enough, I haveoccasionally toyed with the idea of an M42 as a sort of warmer-weather equivalent.

 

[Monitor]

Reminds me of a M-65 Field Jacket.

This is actually a straight copy of the iconic Belstaff Trialmaster jacket. Possibly the most famous field/racing jacket in the UK and certainly the jacket that defines Belstaff, regardless of what we may think of them nowadays.

It's a good copy, too. Looks very nice. Probably a lot nicer than what they're producing today. A lot of companies have had their take on this legendary style.

 

[Edward]

Everybody has made a version of this jacket; it is, arguably, the British Perfecto.

 

[barnabus]

And it's a design that I love more than pretty much any other jacket style. Which explains why I've got three *different* Barbour Internationals.

 

[Mich486]

And it's a design that I love more than pretty much any other jacket style. Which explains why I've got three *different* Barbour Internationals.

I like a lot the International and owned one for a while (along several other Barbour). Trouble for me is that waxed cotton ends up stinking after a while. Fine if you use it for outdoor activities (which is of course what they are meant for) but not so much commuting to the office. I gave up on them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Edward]

I never had a problem with it going smelly (though you do need to keep it aired), though it can be more work than some alternative to get cleaned. The Roadskin motorcycle clothing people were doing a take on this jacket made from some sort of goretex-type wonder fabric that didn't look too 'modern'. Was tempted, but they had modernised the pattern a bit too much for my tastes, in particular things like just a stud in the neck in place of the proper buckle. (No demon velcro, to be fair, though). If they'd stayed true to the original pattern, I'd have been inclined to try one.

 

[Winthorpe]

I’m a huge fan of this style, aka the old 1950s Belstaff Trialmaster, as well. I almost got a Vintage one at Camden Lock market a long time ago (with the same Blue/Grey plaid lining as my AD-10), but being 6’5” sleeve length was an issue. I might give it another shot next time I’m in London. If anyone has recommendations on where to look that would be great.

More about the jacket…

The horsehide is not from Shinki. It’s from a smaller tannery that Satoshi is working with to gain the particular characteristics that he is looking for in terms of appearance and aging. I’m familiar with the Shinki hides that RMC is using as well as Horween’s FQHH (I owned an Aero Sheene in Black FQHH that I sold a little bit ago). It feels similar to the RMC Shinki hides, but has a more defined grain. It’s quite stunning to look at and touch. I cannot wait to see how it ages once worn and exposed to the elements.

While the actual jacket is already rather pliable (especially when compared to jackets made with Horween’s FQHH) the pocket flaps and backing are quite stiff due to the them being doubled up. You essentially have 5 layers of horsehide (jacket body, pocket flap x 2, pocket and backing) that need to break in… Once they do break in and age I think they will look amazing.

The zippers, buttons and arm pit vents (if that is what you call them…) are custom made for Addict Clothes. For the AD-10 they are antiqued Brass. They have an aged appearance without looking corny. I usually don’t like Brass, especially when new, but these look great.

The jacket also came with a Melton wool liner vest that is easily removed. It’s attached by a set of buttons that are well integrated into the jacket. Just like the rest of the jacket the wool liner is very well made. One thing I don’t like is that with the wool liner vest in place you can no longer access the interior pocket.

The interior pocket itself is lined with Brown corduroy (as are the cuffs and the collar) and backed by a strip of black horsehide just like the exterior pockets. There are also 2 small leather patches on the outside of the interior pocket to avoid any tearing. The two outer rows of the stitched belt are padded giving it a bit more substantial feel. Really love the attention to all these details.

 

[Winthorpe]

Here's a link to a short PDF on the history of the Belstaff Trialmaster.

 

[Winthorpe]

Can we see some pics of the back please?
Thanks. Bowen

Here you go.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

See in my mind..this isn't really a jacket but more of a coat...
HD

 

[robrinay]

It’s close in design to the Lewis made UK motorcycle police jacket that was seen in the days before health and safety led to armoured jackets.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Interesting info about the leather. It does look very nice and I can't wait to see it aged!