About tweed suits...

[Dirk Wainscotting]

Maybe your colleagues have dumped it in the wardrobe still wet one too many times? Wool does have a particular smell when wet, but it's worse if the cloth is particularly grubby.

My raincoat breathes and it has grommets under the arms. It's still possible to wear a raincoat and look stylish....rather than like one shops for clothing at an outfitter for skateboarders.

 

[Hal]

Thanks Hal. Is there any spray on fabric (? teflon??) which can waterproof a tweed jacket better than it already is?

The wool gabardine raincoats of the mid-20th century, and some cotton outdoor-pursuits wear of more recent years, claim(ed) to be "showerproof". There still are spray-on preparatons for this purpose, but I don't know how effective they are and whether they would damage tweed.

 

[Hal]

Maybe your colleagues have dumped it in the wardrobe still wet one too many times? Wool does have a particular smell when wet, but it's worse if the cloth is particularly grubby.
My raincoat breathes and it has grommets under the arms. It's still possible to wear a raincoat and look stylish....rather than like one shops for clothing at an outfitter for skateboarders.

I agree with both Dirk's points:
(a) if any woollen garment has been rained on, hang it to dry in an open space.
(b) both the classic types of raincoat - the true trench-coat and the simple single-breasted raglan-sleeve fly-front type - look stylish, and (being breathable) should not aggravate perspiration problems. Don't wear outdoor-pursuits raingear over suits or sports jackets - not stylish and usually doesn't breathe.

 

[MisterCairo]

it's just not specifically Tweed, which is a particular cloth, made in a particular way, from particular regions:Outer Hebrides, Ireland and North of England; with the Scottish tweeds being closely associated with the name.

Only the Outer Hebrides is Harris tweed; anything else, however good the quality is a copy. This is in fact mandated by an Act of Parliament, the only fabric so controlled in the world:

http://www.harristweed.org/about-us/guardians-of-the-orb/

The generic term "tweed" could be applied to the type of woven fabric generally, but the risk is the association with the type's origins - it was created in the Outer Hebrides and originally sourced there. Hence the need for protection.

It's like champagne - only that from the Champagne region of France made to the proper methods may call itself that. Anything else is merely sparkling white wine.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

Only the Outer Hebrides is Harris tweed; anything else, however good the quality is a copy. This is in fact mandated by an Act of Parliament, the only fabric so controlled in the world:

http://www.harristweed.org/about-us/guardians-of-the-orb/

The generic term "tweed" could be applied to the type of woven fabric generally, but the risk is the association with the type's origins - it was created in the Outer Hebrides and originally sourced there. Hence the need for protection.

It's like champagne - only that from the Champagne region of France made to the proper methods may call itself that. Anything else is merely sparkling white wine.

You're right. Isn't that what I already wrote? Tweed is a cloth woven particularly in Scotland, Ireland and the West of England, with the Scottish tweeds (The Harris and Lewis) being the most associated with the name.

 

[Benproof]

I agree with both Dirk's points:
(a) if any woollen garment has been rained on, hang it to dry in an open space.
(b) both the classic types of raincoat - the true trench-coat and the simple single-breasted raglan-sleeve fly-front type - look stylish, and (being breathable) should not aggravate perspiration problems. Don't wear outdoor-pursuits raingear over suits or sports jackets - not stylish and usually doesn't breathe.

Thanks Hal & Dirk for the reassurance.

In our British climate, it rains unpredictably almost all the time (wettest month ever in February?!!). Even today, standing in queues into proximity of wool coats, or in public transport, the unpleasant smell of damp wool lingers around. You might be right and the wearers just don't ever wash their coats year in year. After all, sheep don't go for baths and wear their wool all year round!

I do wear rain proof gear over everything - time to stop!

 

[Hal]

...In our British climate, it rains unpredictably almost all the time (wettest month ever in February?!!).

No! It was November, December and January that were truly awful, with land waterlogged that had never been so in living memory; with February there came a distinct improvement, with a drop in temperatire, FAR less rain, much bright sunshine, and dramatically lengthening days. I'm enjoying the change!
February is not one of the wetter months in Britain; the phrase "February fill-dyke" refers to melting snow, not to rain.

Even today, standing in queues into proximity of wool coats, or in public transport, the unpleasant smell of damp wool lingers around.

Particularly noticeable if in a crowd.

 

[Benproof]

November - January were indeed awful. I only remember how awful it was this month probably because I wasn't interested in tweed last year

Maybe in London, the pollution being washed down with the rain into wool makes it more rank, than the countryside?

Would this work on wool jackets in the British weather. It works for carpets

rug-carpet-cleaner-with-scotchgard-protector.jpg
or
image1_13_en-gb.jpg

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

November - January were indeed awful. I only remember how awful it was this month probably because I wasn't interested in tweed last year

Maybe in London, the pollution being washed down with the rain into wool makes it more rank, than the countryside?

Would this work on wool jackets in the British weather. It works for carpets

rug-carpet-cleaner-with-scotchgard-protector.jpg
or
image1_13_en-gb.jpg

Not sure why, but the images you've posted in several posts are all broken links for me.

I'm starting to think you might have a hypersensitive nose because none of my tweed coats smell offensive when wet. If you don't like the smell of damp wool here may be a problem. It rains a lot here in the Netherlands too; in fact Amsterdam is the wettest city in Northern Europe (contrary to popular belief).

 

[Benproof]

Don't know about hypersensitive nose.....just hypersensitive will do

You probably don't notice the smell because you're used to it, a bit like dog owners and their dogs. I still believe in having a vestibulaire - or hallway, where outdoor clothing and footwear stay out of living space. Unfortunately in workspaces, colleagues bring their wet shanigans right in proximity and try and use perfumes to mask it, doubling up the assault on airspace.

Sorry to hear of Amsterdam's bad weather. I thought that was reserved for the Welsh in Snowdonia or Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. Anyhow, that is probably why I never owned tweed ... the thought of getting it wet is appalling for me, even though it was designed for outdoor rainwear.

Not sure why the links all break - they don't show up for me either. Possibly my browser is badly outdated and can't cope with the terminology required for hyperlinking.

 

[Hal]

I still believe in having a vestibulaire - or hallway, where outdoor clothing and footwear stay out of living space.

I agree a thousand times!

Snowdonia is indeed very wet, but the Lake District, the Scottish Highlands (on the western side) and parts of Ireland are wetter, not to mention the Norwegian fjordland! (You spelt the Anglesey place-name correctly except for a missing hyphen; it's not an historic name, but one made up for local publicity not long after the railway arrived.)

What do others think about tweed in the rain? Surely it's not "outdoor rainwear" but simply a fabric that can take a small amount of wetting?

I have had some problems with my browser when looking at FL; the box about a running script seems to appear every time I view these fora.

 

[Trenchfriend]

What would you prefer? 100% wool or 70%wool/30%poly-mix?

 

[Fading Fast]

^^^ 100% wool. Tweed doesn't benefit, IMHO, from the addition of poly. Sometimes, in some items, like socks for example, the addition of a small percentage of poly can improve the elasticity without making the item feel synthetic. The same can go for other items where a 10% or so addition can help to prevent wrinkling / maintaining shape with the percentage low enough to not impact the hand, breathability or flow of the fabric. But 30% is a pretty high percentage and, at least for tweed, would only detract from it.

As to the rain thing - tweed or any well-woven wool seem fine for a mist or even very light sprinkle, but the wool will give off a musty wool scent when wet. That usually goes away when it dries. However, for real rain, wool is not the answer. What I do love about tweed is that it can take that mist or drizzle without missing a beat - you don't have to baby it at all.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

In light showers a tweed jacket without a coat can manage admirably for short exposures. In drizzle I'd wear a mac or take an umbrella. In full-on rain, well only a fool walks around in that without a coat or brolly.

 

[Benproof]

Hmm. I think I'm responsible for all those empty icon boxes...some incompatibility with browsers...

I (purist) prefer 100% wool although the polyamide mix does offer something of a structuring for the tweed jacket. I notice that 100% estate wool jackets tend to carry a premium - probably a reflection of the care put into the making.

How many tweed jackets do you all have by the way? Do you wear them for special occasions or rotate them during the week/year? Generally in the city it makes sense to carry an umbrella...but hill walking can be a bit challenging. I think a tweed jacket looks better than a puffa jacket or parka. Would just like the same kind of practicality. I had a Michelin man jacket once and it was very disconcerting becoming twice as wide. When I took it off it was such a sigh of relief. I'm hoping with a tweed jacket I feel comfortable enough to wear it in and out and not feel like I am taking up too much space or irritating others with a bad wool smell or crzy paviNg h0undsto0th patterns...

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

I only have two actual Harris Tweed coats. One brown herringbone, one greenish/brown. Another is a sort of moss green Donegal tweed with coloured flecks which you can only see close up. All these are quite solid 14-16 oz cloth.

The other "tweed" coats are of varying weights, but lighter in comparison: a dark grey and a brown/black herringbone that looks like dark brown.

I have another checked one 'under construction'...

The denser tweeds are good for cold weather (obviously) and can withstand a sprinkle or two, though they're not raincoats. They are without doubt (and I'm sure all tweed aficionados agree) amongst the most comfortable tailored clothing you can wear. They don't take up any more space than you would take up with no clothes on.

The thing is, if you don't want it to get wet at all, you'll have to carry an umbrella or wear a light mac (which you can nonchalantly drape over one arm or your shoulder). When it's not raining, you're fine.

 

[stratcat]

The real beauty of a pure wool garment is that is retains a lot of it's insulating properties until it is practically saturated, I believe that is what made tweed so popular in the first place

Now, no one in their right mind is going to go out in a rainstorm in a tweed suit. These days there are better fabrics that are more waterproof, but there are downsides. Not least of which is appearance.

I have three Harris tweed garments. I have two sports jackets and a longer, just-above-the-knee length overcoat.
The overcoat gets worn when it's raining but not if I intend to be out in the rain for any length of time. When it's got a bit damp it is hung on a hanger to dry naturally away from any radiators. It has never given off any smells at all.
I am a keen cyclist and most of my cycling gear is man made fibre, great at wicking away the sweat and drying really quickly. But oh boy does it smell. In my experience most natural fabrics are better at stopping odours than their man made equivalents. The merino/synthetic mix cycle jerseys I have don't smell at all.
Benproof, when you say you are smelling other people it could be that you are smelling their wet synthetic fabric clothing that will do nothing to help hold/mask their own smell. Also when people are wet the smell carries much more easily. It wasn't a terribly pleasant experience teaching a room full of teenage boys who had just been running around playing football during a wet breaktime, but that's another story.

When it's really throwing it down I use an old Burberry trench coat that I bought off ebay, it's breathable so I don't get the boil in the bag effect.

 

[Benproof]

It's really hard to tell but I notice (after the rain, hail, thunderstorms catching us out) that a lot of people with wool looking clothes all seem to evaporate stale odours from the jackets in tight spaces with poor ventilation like buses, offices like broom cupboards. You could be right - knowing my colleagues they won't care if it is 100% wool. They are only concerned that their wet clothing says "Orla Kiely" or some awfully decadent pattern driven nutcase designer making attractive communist era frumpy dresses and coats which smell awful. But it might be improper of me to peek at the inner label to find out if it is wool, viscose or some synth fabric.

Sorry i have to whinge. I've been coughing all day from. Realised I was holding a whiteboard marker in my mouth, cap open and getting high from the fumes to ward off musty tweed/fake/synthetic whwtever it is. Working with teenage boys isn't so bad as long as they are not your own. I don't know why they all go for cheap Lynx aftershave in fumigation doses.

Embarrassingly I saw a glorious green checkered tweed jacket which was a must have made by some fowl label... Canada Goose which I never heard of. Did some searches and not very nice mentions of the pricey this year's label made me think I had better hold of!

I'd be happy with 2 or 3 tweed coats. I already wear flannel so trying to dress down a notch is easier with tweed. Anyone wearing British tweeds like Dugdale or Crombie. Sizing is hell off the internet so I might have to get w similwr jacket and measure so that I don't end up with q tweed jacket with an internal kangaroo for a baby elephant.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

Anyone wearing British tweeds like Dugdale or Crombie.

Crombie no longer produces cloth (for sale at least) and I don't think they ever produced tweed. The cloth they produced for their well-known coats was a thick melton. Dugdale sells to the trade.

Are you considering buying a top-quality tweed in RTW? They always turn out to be expensive and for the same or a little more you can get one made up so it really fits. At a place like Cad & the Dandy or similar. Going that route you can also style it to your tastes.

I think unless this relates to vintage styles and tastes this may be a topic more suited to Styleforum than here.

 

[Benproof]

Yes I think the vintage styles seem to be more interesting than the modern stuff. The Crombie and Dugdale names just cropped up when I was searching. Good to know. Will probably skip Crombie then since I already have one of their coats and another in medium melton (so I don't look like a coal miner). I think Harris Tweed seems a safe bet but I have been put off a bit about the difficulty of trying to wear tweed with jeans (haha) so I'm trying to figure out how a tweed jacket would fit.

What is RTW? I only get a few things tailored like suits and a coat. I guess I'm just after something that fits with my understated taste but probably not Cad & Dandy. For their handmade tailoring prices, you'd think they would at least try to take some better fitting images in their gallery to make it look like it's worth it. I liked their Fox Flannels too. Beautiful fabrics.