A2 or Half Belf, which one first?

[Seb Lucas]

I just found these two pictures from another forum, and I understand DT's point now. The jacket looks perfect in front, but ridiculous from the back, how does this happen?
View attachment 11869
View attachment 11870

No wonder it looks pox, that jacket's too short out front too. But that may be some hipster Gen Y thing. Rule of thumb for me, it should be long enough to end (in mid rise jeans) two inches past the bottom of your belt line at front and cover the top inch of your back pockets. A too short jacket will make you look shorter and poorly dressed. Establish the length measurements for yourself as well as you can before you order and use any old short jacket to determine the length that works so you can request what you want in inches.

Generally no one is happy with their first jacket and there will be another to follow. In my case it took 7 or 8 jackets before I was satisfied. I have bought dozens by now and I'm still looking for my favorite.

 

[Vespizzare]

(I'll admit up front that I'm only responding to the question and haven't read all the replies)

I say A2. More dashing. Half belts IMHO vibe "older."

 

[Seb Lucas]

(I'll admit up front that I'm only responding to the question and haven't read all the replies)

I say A2. More dashing. Half belts IMHO vibe "older."

Interesting. Can you explain what you mean by dashing and older in these two cases?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Some always suggest that..'It is supposed to be a short jacket'..as if it should then ride above the belt or be borderline in going that direction...when actually the manufacturer will add an inch or two to the length without feeling they have compromised their design. A certain fit can allow one to wear a leather jacket with practically any pant beltline rather than constantly adjusting the wardrobe to a jacket that some insist must remain so short.
HD

 

[schitzo]

The aero original hercules is a type of half belt and now that I have one I can tell you it is a short jacket that isn't supposed to cover the belt. Finally, in my case I understand that length should not be dictated by belt positioning, at all, and I actually now prefer beltless to wearing one. Indeed, wearing this herc out a lot lately has made me realise that jackets in this length are good on slimmer people like me - and I'd imagine that probably they are less good for more portly chaps. When I see Insurrection adding so much length to their aeros IMHO i think they over do it. But fine, clearly that is what their customers want although that said I am sure that if the same customers were fitted in person by Ken he'd have a different opinion. For me, the aero 30s HB, cossack, and original herc and the AL dakota, arkansas and Oakland should all be short jackets that don't need to cover the belt at the front

 

[Worf]

^^^^ if you're wearing it open, no biggie but what if you have to zip er up? Then you're stuck with the unenviable position of looking like a slice of Neopolitan Ice Cream... pant then shirt and finally jacket. That look doesn't work for me in ANY iteration. Sorry....

Worf

 

[HoosierDaddy]

^^^^ if you're wearing it open, no biggie but what if you have to zip er up? Then you're stuck with the unenviable position of looking like a slice of Neopolitan Ice Cream... pant then shirt and finally jacket. That look doesn't work for me in ANY iteration. Sorry....

Worf

HA...me either Worf...!! lol

 

[Rudie]

The aero original hercules is a type of half belt and now that I have one I can tell you it is a short jacket that isn't supposed to cover the belt. Finally, in my case I understand that length should not be dictated by belt positioning, at all, and I actually now prefer beltless to wearing one. Indeed, wearing this herc out a lot lately has made me realise that jackets in this length are good on slimmer people like me - and I'd imagine that probably they are less good for more portly chaps. When I see Insurrection adding so much length to their aeros IMHO i think they over do it. But fine, clearly that is what their customers want although that said I am sure that if the same customers were fitted in person by Ken he'd have a different opinion. For me, the aero 30s HB, cossack, and original herc and the AL dakota, arkansas and Oakland should all be short jackets that don't need to cover the belt at the front

I think they should cover the belt but are meant to be short jackets, so they call for high rise trousers. I agree with Worf that it's not a good look when you have a low rise and show some shirt between jacket and trousers.

schitzo, do you have a thread with fit pics of your Hercules?

 

[schitzo]

schitzo, do you have a thread with fit pics of your Hercules?

sorry not yet Rudie I've been lax. But I promise I will get some pics of it posted inside the first fortnight of April. Then you can all have your say on the length. Personally I think this is the best aero I've ever had. It covers the belt at the back but if I stand straight then I think some belt (were I wearing one) could be seen at the front, definitely at least some of the buckle would show

 

[Grayland]

I think they should cover the belt but are meant to be short jackets, so they call for high rise trousers.

I would imagine that many of the HB's (even those in a vintage style) are cut a bit longer to accommodate lower rise trousers. I'm no fan of low-rise trousers, but I'm also no fan of the type of rise my grandfather's trousers exhibited. I do realize that there are people who like that vintage look, but most do not.

 

[nick123]

I think it takes a certain charisma to get away with short jackets. 1970s punk rockers yes, Rakuten models yes. Me, no.

 

[zhz]

Change the topic a bit, Aero 30HB and BK west fall, which one do you think better?

Some always suggest that..'It is supposed to be a short jacket'..as if it should then ride above the belt or be borderline in going that direction...when actually the manufacturer will add an inch or two to the length without feeling they have compromised their design. A certain fit can allow one to wear a leather jacket with practically any pant beltline rather than constantly adjusting the wardrobe to a jacket that some insist must remain so short.
HD

 

[Seb Lucas]

I think it takes a certain charisma to get away with short jackets. 1970s punk rockers yes, Rakuten models yes. Me, no.

Charisma or not, I have never seen anyone look good in a short short jacket. Below the belt or forget it.

 

[zhz]

OK， here comes the new problem, I decide to go for an HB, but which one?
Aero 1930HB? Aero 1920s Hercules , BK Westfall.

I think the Westfall has a better fit. Not sure about the Aero, the old pattern has a funny back, seems they re-working on their pattern now.

 

[handymike]

The Westfall is very nice, and doesn't have the pleats above the belt that make the back poof out.
But the secret to the Aero jackets is the FQHH! if you're ready for it.
The BK hides aren't as burly. They are more like the vintage stuff.

 

[Grayland]

Goodwear Ventura, baby!

 

[handymike]

ooooooooh yeah, baby!

 

[thor]

Not too keen on that 20 month GW wait time (I'd probably change my mind on details/mods a dozen times while waiting).

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Change the topic a bit, Aero 30HB and BK west fall, which one do you think better?

Better..? I have no idea. I know nothing about the actual West Fall fit. Either one should be a nice premium jacket.
HD

 

[Seb Lucas]

Why not think about goat - the Aero goat is terrific stuff wears like iron and not as stiff as FQHH