A2 Maker/Contract With Biggest Collar?

[pipvh]

A quick question for the human A2 encyclopedias here at the Lounge...

I'm edging towards an A2, but it's early days yet. I particularly like those jackets with a large, non-tapered collar. This may well mean a Rough Wear 27752 but what are my other options? Does the collar stand make a dramatic difference to the appearance?

Thanks, all.

 

[Dr H]

Anything by Roughwear looks pretty large to me (not a big fan as a result)...

Yes, the collar stand makes a significant to the appearance of the pattern IMO - as the collar sits much higher as a result.

Of the collar stand contracts I prefer Perry (small collar, rounded points), but I've moved towards later contracts (e.g. Doniger) with the simpler collar attachment for comfort.

 

[pipvh]

I've moved towards later contracts (e.g. Doniger) with the simpler collar attachment for comfort.

Is the collar stand a comfort issue, then?

 

[Dr H]

Not primarily, but the collar sits higher on the neck when folded down and while it can be neat and trim when fastened/snapped/latched, it does gape somewhat when partially unzipped.
It's purely a matter of personal preference of course (and most of the jackets that I have owned have had collar stands), but if you're wearing it unfastened then it's less neat in appearance than a collar with a lower/V shaped fastening.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Collar stand or not is entirely a mater of aesthetics. You can't tell from wearing.

 

[pipvh]

My theoretical choice, at the moment, is a toss-up between the BK RW 27752 or Arco 18775, or the new Eastman H.L.B. Corp (if they ever make it without the Tiger Sharks insignia) - the latter is very nice indeed. Not being an A2 purist by the remotest stretch of the imagination, my main interest is in the leather and things like contrast stitching and colour of knits, but the new BKs look very nice indeed. I now have to persuade the knit-waist-hating missus, and the bank...

 

[Interbak]

I'd have to disagree with Seb on being able to feel the difference. I've had several collar stand A2's and always find that when sporting a beard I would always snag it in the neck hook. This is one of the reasons I went with a Dubow on my last GW order, the smaller, slanted collar sits well below my chin, no snags. This won't be an issue for all you clean shaven guys.

B

 

[aswatland]

Original Cooper (collar stand) and Knopf (no collar stand) A2s have the largest collars judging from the originals that I owned/own. GW make excellent repros of both.

 

[pipvh]

Original Cooper (collar stand) and Knopf (no collar stand) A2s have the largest collars judging from the originals that I owned/own. GW make excellent repros of both.

I didn't know that GW made a Cooper... I fear, though, that a GW jacket will always be beyond my reach.

 

[andyfalzon]

I can propose a Werber from BK. It's a nice jacket with nice collar similar to Rough Wear.

 

[aswatland]

The BK Werber is an excellent reproduction and I would recommend it.

 

[Dr H]

I'd have to disagree with Seb on being able to feel the difference. I've had several collar stand A2's and always find that when sporting a beard I would always snag it in the neck hook. This is one of the reasons I went with a Dubow on my last GW order, the smaller, slanted collar sits well below my chin, no snags. This won't be an issue for all you clean shaven guys.

B

Have to agree with that comment - I'm not wearing a beard at the moment, but when I was sporting one you could put money on a snagged beard...

 

[Brettafett]

I recently asked John Chapman a similar question. Here in part, are his (Vickie's) answers...

"He says the Werber, Cable Raincoat, and Star Sportswear jackets all have a larger collar. He says you should take a look at the Cooper. It has a big collar but is also trim-fitting.
Also he says his RW pattern is different now than what you got before, so you might want to take another look at that. The Knopf and Dubow 20960 also have bigger collars. The Werber collar is big, but the collar/neck hole for it is not.
Monarch is probably the most trim of the bunch. It also is the only one of these that has an inset sleeve, which increases the comfort factor. For the Monarch, John took apart an original so his pattern is spot on."

 

[Seb Lucas]

Have to agree with that comment - I'm not wearing a beard at the moment, but when I was sporting one you could put money on a snagged beard...

I've never had a beard so there you go. But if you guys didn't have one my comment would still be correct.

 

[pipvh]

I can't find the Cooper on GW's site. Or am I being dense?

 

[winterland1]

Lost Worlds seem on the bigger side. 2 versions of collar also.
http://lostworldsinc.com/A-2_Flight_Jacket.htm
http://lostworldsinc.com/A-2_Horsehide_Leather_Flight_Jacket_Stand.htm

 

[aswatland]

I can't find the Cooper on GW's site. Or am I being dense?

http://www.goodwearleather.com/photos/Cooper_No03_46_Steer/

 

[pipvh]

http://www.goodwearleather.com/photos/Cooper_No03_46_Steer/

Thanks, Andrew. Annoyingly, that is pretty much what I'm after. Well, I'll have to aspire to it, I suppose...

Andy, do BK have any plans for a Cooper? It would look incredible in your Badalassi steer.

 

[andyfalzon]

Andy, do BK have any plans for a Cooper? It would look incredible in your Badalassi steer.

Sorry, no plan for Cooper. No plan for Doniger nor Spiewak. All other contracts possible.
Next releases will be Perry and Cable.

 

[Jeff M]

I can't find the Cooper on GW's site. Or am I being dense?

A not so good photo of a GW Cooper...




The collars of both the GW Cooper and Werber lean towards the large end of the spectrum.

a GW '36 Werber;