a quick question trying to decide between a G-1 from Johnson Leathers or GibsonBarnes

[tmak]

Hi,

quick question i am trying to decide between a custom G-1 from Johnson Leathers (i have a seen a version they have made that is really nice) or just ordering one from Gibson-Barnes. any thoughts? i have never ordered a custom jacket before.

Thanks

t

 

[Peacoat]

If you go with Johnson, Alan will send you a test jacket. Depending on the fit, you may not need any alterations. I have found that Johnson patterns are based on a slim model. So, if you are in fairly good shape, it is a flattering fit. I have two from Alan, and both are top notch with a good trim fit.

 

[Fanch]

I have been a long time G&B customer, but man have I heard some really great feedback from numerous guys on this forum who have been incredibly happy not only with his jackets but also his service. G&B has more or less restricted customization, or at least they had last time I was there. One of my favorite jackets is a G&B "historic" A-2 Model 43 in mahogany (medium brown) horsehide. For their lower end jackets, I believe they use synthetic rather than wool knits as JL does. Sizing can be a trial with G&B stuff as they label their jackets big. What exactly are you contemplating in terms of a custom G-1 from Johnson Leathers? I would be very intrigued with going that route, given what others have said on this forum.

 

[nick123]

They're both excellent companies. I prefer the G&B goatskin to Alan's, as it seems just a bit thicker, but I'm wearing one of his goat M-120s right now. I think you'll get a much better fit with the Johnson, but again, I like both.

 

[tmak]

i bought a used Johnson Leather G-1 style with leather collar in cowhide off of ebay - and i have to say i love the jacket - the leather is wonderful, feels and smells great. I got this jacket off of ebay at a amazing price - but the downside is it doesn't fit me that well - maybe later i will try and post a picture of me in the jacket and get some feedback from the forum on the fit - i think i need a little more length in the sleeves and body. So I emailed Alan and he said they could make a copy of it - but i have been looking at Gibson/Barnes G-1, the Johnson Leather jacket is slightly more but I am thinking that having a custom made and more importantly custom sized jacket might be worth it.

 

[Big J]

I heard good things about G&B, so when I mailed them to check the measurements of their 'Navy G-1', I was shocked to find that compared to issue G-1's, they were about 10 inches wider pit-to-pit, and baggy around the stomach. It seems to me that G&B are now only making jackets for fat people.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Your only but critical problem with G&B will be fit. I have owned several G&B's and if they fit they're excellent. You would need to talk to Alan at JL about goat hides to suit a GI, I have a goat by them, nice but not really G1 appropriate I suspect.

 

[Fanch]

I think the biggest problem with G&B is more the way their jackets are labeled than sized, and it's duck soup if you can ever make a trip to San Diego and visit the G&B factory at El Cajon as I did. Their various models all seem to fit differently though. Although I like the concept of their Expedition (Indy) jacket, none of their Indys fit me very well, including the one in my closet. Rather than choose a G&B G-1, I would tend to go with their Navy M-422A. I found I much prefer their historic A-2's over their standard A-2's with synthetic knits. I suspect that you are likely to have far greater success getting a proper fit with a JL jacket over G&B.

 

[bn1966]

As stated by others, G&B can come out BIG if you go by size label alone. I ordered a MA1 in XL REGULAR. Boy would have been at least a 2XL IN Alpha sizing.

 

[robrinay]

I usually take a 44" chest and I'm 6'1" tall but my G and B civilian G1 fits perfectly - its a size 40 R. As suggested above check the measurements of whichever G and B you order against a well fitting jacket you already own.

 

[Deacon211]

I have no experience with JL, but I have to wonder how a custom G-1 will turn out if the maker doesn't regularly make G-1s. Take, for example Pop's Leather in Turkey. It's a common and favorite spot for Air Force guys to get their A-2s customized or get "luxury" A-2s to replace their issues. Their G-1s, while nicely made no doubt, just don't look like G-1s. Pocket shapes, collar cuts...they are just different enough to make you go hmmm a bit.

I'd like to see some good shots of JL's G-1 to see how she fits.

As for G+B, it's a tough call and I think is the fit as much as the size. I ordered a G-1 from them in 46 and, while it fit in the shoulders, it was really broad in the waist. An attempt at a 44 yielded a somewhat trimmer waist, but was tight in the shoulders. I just think that the cut has been made more generous overall, it's not (in my limited experience) just that the whole jacket is bigger. For instance the arms on both of the jackets were roomier...more like a varsity jacket than a flight jacket.

Having said that, the G+B G-1 is very nicely made. Beautiful leather and mouton (or Dynel), and well put together.

I don't know what the general consensus is about US Wings. But I got the lowest grade A-2 for my wife as a beater and it's remarkably nice. I know that they have higher grade jackets as well....anyway, something to consider.

 

[nick123]

The JL military offerings share some of the basic offerings as the A-2/G-1, but they're not accurate. Either are the G&B for the most part. I'm sure you could specify some custom mods to get them a little closer. I've owned a JL A-2, and have seen their G-2/ANJ-3 in the store. Very nice jackets, but the G&B just has a bit more of a military feel, while the JL is more of a civilian copy.
*To be fair, maybe both are more accurate than I give them credit for. I don't know-but I think they're more loosely based on the military jackets.

 

[CBI]

tmak - are you an "odd" or a "hard to fit" size? Unless this is the case, I would suggest purchasing a real G-1 as they are in-expensive and you would be getting the real thing.

 

[bn1966]

Now if you are a regular 42 there are a wealth of original G1's out there for sale....wish I was a 42 :-D I've had a couple of repros made for me and 2 originals. My personal experience has been more satisfaction with the originals..but then that's me...I've a number of repros in other jackets that I wear to bits & love to bits.

 

[tmak]

Hi,

Thanks for all the comments. Actually i am not so concerned about getting a accurate G-1, i have a used avirex G-1 which is nice (although i think kind of the same problem in terms of fit - i need to have someone take measurements of me and find out what actual size i am - i think i might be like a 44/45 tall/long). I have the Johnson G-1 and i really like it except for the fit/size - i have seen the G&B G-1s and they are nice - so its come down to spend a little more on a custom Johnson Leather jacket (that i already love the style) or save a few bucks (money is a bit tight) and get a nice G&B jacket?

 

[Fanch]

This is a tutorial on TFL that describes exactly how a jacket should be measured in post #10 of the thread below:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?74921-Leather-jacket-question

You can measure a favorite jacket that fits well and start from there. There are numerous threads describing how you should be measured. If any question, go to a local tailor and have it done for you. Maybe measure the Avirex G-1 and see what exactly doesn't work for you. Your dilemma regarding sizing is an issue with which all of us have encountered and still do.

 

[nick123]

Uh oh-discount
http://www.gibson-barnes.com/dept-293832/Leather-Jackets.html

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I just can't get over G&B's jacket photos. The A2 jackets look puffy(oversized) in the sleeves and body yet with tight looking knits on waist and sleeves. Their M-422A does look nice,though.
HD

 

[Fanch]

HD, I think the puffy(oversized) look in the sleeves and body with tight looking knits on waist and sleeves is largely a photographic illusion, at least for the G&B "historic" A-2 jackets but perhaps less true for their "regular" jackets, which I do think have "blousy" fits. When Dave Marshall was with G&B, I recall his telling me that the historic A-2's were modeled after an "average" WW II contract A-2. Below you can see his full screen presentation of the historic Model 31 A-2 with veg tanned goatskin very similar, if not the same, as Aero's russet veg tanned goatskin used on my Pioneer. My only negative is the collar stand used on both G&B Models 31 and 41 which are uncomfortable. Hence my personal choice of the G&B historic Model 43 A-2 with mahogany (medium brown) horsehide, cotton lining, and no collar stand:

http://www.gibson-barnes.com/prod-296723/Type-A2-Mark-31.html

I have previously posted my two A-2 jackets: My G&B size 40T (long) historic Model 43 A-2 and my size 44 (long) Aero Bronco A-2. As I superimposed the two jackets, the essential difference that I noted was the way the two jackets were labeled, with the Aero Bronco A-2 about one size smaller than the G&B. If the Aero labeling were to apply to the G&B, my G&B should be labeled as a 46T. If the G&B labeling were to apply to the Aero, the Bronco would be labeled as 38T. Otherwise, there was very little difference other than the Aero seemed to run one size smaller than the G&B, disregarding the labeling.

Measurements of the G&B Model 43 A-2 labeled as size 40 (long):
pit to pit - 24.5"
back length bottom of knits - 27"
sleeve length bottom of knits - 27"
top of cargo pocket - 23.5"
bottom of jacket top of knits - 20"
widest point of sleeves - 8.5"
narrowist point of sleeves just above knits - 5.5"

Measurements of Aero Bronco A-2 labeled as size 44 (long):
pit to pit - 23.5"
back length bottom of knits - 27"
sleeve length bottom of knits - 27"
top of cargo pocket - 23"
bottom of jacket top of knits - 19.5"
widest point of sleeves - 8.5"
narrowist point of sleeves just above knits - 5.5"

Based on my empiric observation of superimposing the two jackets and then confirming with a tape measure, I see no essential difference between the two jackets other than the Aero being one actual size smaller. It would be interesting to compare a Good Wear Bronco A-2 repro or even an original Bronco A-2 contract to close the loop. The proof of the pudding is in the data.

 

[nick123]

I just purchased a size G&B 40 (about my chest size) G-1. It's very true that sizing down one or maybe two sizes from your chest size works with G&B. I've owned a Civil A-2 in a sizs 38, and even that was a more relaxed fit. But here's to hoping mine's not a tent. I think the G-1 runs a bit smaller than the A-2 with them. At least the size 40 G-1 is better than the size 44 I began this hobby with. lol.