A Noob's First Fedora / A Little Guidance Please

[Trouser Bark]

I've read the first 20 pages of threads in the Hat forum and searched around for a sort of general noob tutorial and haven't found one. I see bits of helpful info buried in monstrous threads but nothing intended to show generally how to make the transition for a heretofore non fedora wearer.

I see comments on pairing, color, etc. but I'm looking for a specific thread for those of us that have no prior experience and would like to benefit from the mistakes you all have already made.

A pile of questions...

- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
- I see where one poster passed another wearer and said the other guy's hat was wool... how would he know?
- Why are there seemingly more than 100 different fedoras at some mfg's and nearly all look identical?
- Is there a suggested first hat for a guy that wears button down L/S shirts and leather jackets?
- I see a combination of four letters that some use when talking about their head shape. How do I learn more about that?
- There's something recognizable about an Indiana Jones but it looks like it may be the functional equivalent of a baseball cap.
- Is there a step up model that doesn't carry the connotation of a wearer attempting to emulate his fave movie star's costume?
- Why are there differences in available stiffness?
- Is there a brim width that generally doesn't require you to remove the hat when you get in a vehicle?
- Why do vintage fedoras often have odd creases in the brim and uneven shapes? Is that just mistreatment and poor storage?


A zillion questions and I'm ready for the next step.

I've been the baseball cap guy and for the last ten years have worn flat hats. I still like the flats but there's something captivating about a nice fedora.

Things I know I like are brims that don't have a taped edge, something that's not too dressy, and a color that's easy to pair.

Things I know I don't have what it takes to wear are stingy brims and trilby styles.

 

[belfastboy]

I've read the first 20 pages of threads in the Hat forum and searched around for a sort of general noob tutorial and haven't found one. I see bits of helpful info buried in monstrous threads but nothing intended to show generally how to make the transition for a heretofore non fedora wearer.

I see comments on pairing, color, etc. but I'm looking for a specific thread for those of us that have no prior experience and would like to benefit from the mistakes you all have already made.

A pile of questions...

- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
- I see where one poster passed another wearer and said the other guy's hat was wool... how would he know?
- Why are there seemingly more than 100 different fedoras at some mfg's and nearly all look identical?
- Is there a suggested first hat for a guy that wears button down L/S shirts and leather jackets?
- I see a combination of four letters that some use when talking about their head shape. How do I learn more about that?
- There's something recognizable about an Indiana Jones but it looks like it may be the functional equivalent of a baseball cap.
- Is there a step up model that doesn't carry the connotation of a wearer attempting to emulate his fave movie star's costume?
- Why are there differences in available stiffness?
- Is there a brim width that generally doesn't require you to remove the hat when you get in a vehicle?
- Why do vintage fedoras often have odd creases in the brim and uneven shapes? Is that just mistreatment and poor storage?


A zillion questions and I'm ready for the next step.

I've been the baseball cap guy and for the last ten years have worn flat hats. I still like the flats but there's something captivating about a nice fedora.

Things I know I like are brims that don't have a taped edge, something that's not too dressy, and a color that's easy to pair.

Things I know I don't have what it takes to wear are stingy brims and trilby styles.

It would take a book to fully answer your questions so I don't know where to start. Perhaps pick your top 5 questions and ask them. Then we might be less in overwhelm with the volume.

 

[belfastboy]

It would take a book to fully answer your questions so I don't know where to start. Perhaps pick your top 5 questions and ask them. Then we might be less in overwhelm with the volume.

The "Ask a Question" thread is probably your best bet. Sit down with a beer or a other libation and start scrolling and reading. Every question you ask has been addressed in the thread somewhere. Or alternatively use the Google search, plus Fedora Lounge and the topic/question you want answered. The Google search is far more effective than the search engine within the Lounge.

 

[ILB Frank]

I wear western hats but I can help with some insight...

- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
Crushable fedoras are most always (if not always) wool. Crushable hats just don't look as "dressy."

- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
Likely all the same. A wool fedora might be less warm ( or not).

- I see where one poster passed another wearer and said the other guy's hat was wool... how would he know?
I am by no means an expert, but having handled enough fur felts and seen enough wool felts - after awhile you can just tell the difference with a reasonable accuracy.

- Why are there seemingly more than 100 different fedoras at some mfg's and nearly all look identical?
The more you dive into a hobby the better you get at identifying the different nuances of hats.

- Is there a suggested first hat for a guy that wears button down L/S shirts and leather jackets?
Really, it's personal taste a hybrid western/fedora like an open road might work if you are self-concious about evoking "Indiana Jones" comments.

- I see a combination of four letters that some use when talking about their head shape. How do I learn more about that?
There is regular oval; long oval and, rarely, extra long oval. I'm not sure about the 4 letters though.

- There's something recognizable about an Indiana Jones but it looks like it may be the functional equivalent of a baseball cap.
Yes, there is. Aside from the "dimensional brim" I will let someone else break-down the finer details that make a hat more or less a Raiders hat.

- Is there a step up model that doesn't carry the connotation of a wearer attempting to emulate his fave movie star's costume?
Wear what you like and what you are most comfortable in and don't worry about the comments. Trust me, most people don't take the time to do more than give a passing notice. There is always a one in a hundred that will make a "Walker, Texas Ranger" comment to me (or similar) but all other comments are, "nice hat."

- Why are there differences in available stiffness?
That's a long story and one that changes based on vintage vs. new hats. Generally though, western weight hats are stiffer than dress (fedora) hats.

- Is there a brim width that generally doesn't require you to remove the hat when you get in a vehicle?
You are asking the question the wrong way... Is there a vehicle that doesn't require you to remove your hat? The answer is, a vintage car or truck without headrests (or small headrests).

- Why do vintage fedoras often have odd creases in the brim and uneven shapes? Is that just mistreatment and poor storage?
Again, I've only handled one, and it molds and shapes without steam and it's like working with clay. It's awesome. Modern hats need steam/water. Either one takes some work to get a good professional crease. Some of us that crease our own hats don't mind that hand creased/off-center/"wonkie" look.

Good luck as you step-off into the world of hats. There is a wealth of knowledge here so take some time to read and learn. I got into wearing hats in 2020. I started off with a rabbit felt Stetson. The rest were custom built by small hatmakers and are terrific hats that include beaver fur and nutria fur.

Final advice: wear the hell out of your hat(s) with confidence. Really. No one is noticing. No one is caring. Really.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

I've read the first 20 pages of threads in the Hat forum and searched around for a sort of general noob tutorial and haven't found one. I see bits of helpful info buried in monstrous threads but nothing intended to show generally how to make the transition for a heretofore non fedora wearer.

I see comments on pairing, color, etc. but I'm looking for a specific thread for those of us that have no prior experience and would like to benefit from the mistakes you all have already made.

A pile of questions...

- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
- I see where one poster passed another wearer and said the other guy's hat was wool... how would he know?
- Why are there seemingly more than 100 different fedoras at some mfg's and nearly all look identical?
- Is there a suggested first hat for a guy that wears button down L/S shirts and leather jackets?
- I see a combination of four letters that some use when talking about their head shape. How do I learn more about that?
- There's something recognizable about an Indiana Jones but it looks like it may be the functional equivalent of a baseball cap.
- Is there a step up model that doesn't carry the connotation of a wearer attempting to emulate his fave movie star's costume?
- Why are there differences in available stiffness?
- Is there a brim width that generally doesn't require you to remove the hat when you get in a vehicle?
- Why do vintage fedoras often have odd creases in the brim and uneven shapes? Is that just mistreatment and poor storage?


A zillion questions and I'm ready for the next step.

I've been the baseball cap guy and for the last ten years have worn flat hats. I still like the flats but there's something captivating about a nice fedora.

Things I know I like are brims that don't have a taped edge, something that's not too dressy, and a color that's easy to pair.

Things I know I don't have what it takes to wear are stingy brims and trilby styles.

Hey TB:
Being a leather jacket and hat guy i’ll give you a couple tips.
Important….don’t overthink it!!
You don’t have to know it all before you start.
Also…just look at the WHAYWT thread and when you see a hat that grabs your attention take a screen shot of it. After you look at a bunch of screenshots you’ll be seeing yourself what you didn’t know you liked. You can go to the specific brand hat threads and see more of those type hats.
Brim width…i think this is a big part of feeling weird wearing a fedora.
They all look/feel big in the beginning and feel bigger. 2 1/2” brim is a good medium width without feeling like you are wearing an umbrella.
Color….light to med grey goes with everything. Including all those leather jackets “over there”.
Lastly….get one, plop it on and wear it with whatever the heck you want. Nobody out there even notices and if they do…good for them.
Keep it simple and wear it.
Won’t take long then you can refine.
That’s it…one hat/jacket guy to another and welcome.
B

 

[GHT]

There's many a good point made above, no point me repeating them. There is one important tip that I can offer you though. British Hat Sizes, utilize the imperial system to measure the diameter of the head in inches, with sizes usually ranging from 6 1/2 to 8.
North American Hat Sizes are also based on the imperial system but are an eighth of an inch larger than British sizes for the equivalent hat size.

Buying online can result in a hat that's not a good fit. To avoid such ambiguity find out what your hat size is in metric. Then you can quote both when ordering. There's no ambiguity with metric. It's much the same with shoes.

 

[jlee562]

- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
Don't buy a wool hat.
- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
Negligible. But again, skip the wool.
- I see where one poster passed another wearer and said the other guy's hat was wool... how would he know?
You see enough hats and you can tell at a reasonable distance. The brim shape is sometimes a giveaway with ones that are wired. An underwelt brim is common on many modern wool hats too. But the texture of wool looks different than fur felt and you can surely feel the difference in hand.
- Why are there seemingly more than 100 different fedoras at some mfg's and nearly all look identical?
A hat's shape is the product of the combination between the block and the flange. Back in the day when folks were a bit more exacting about face shapes and hats, the differences that appear less obvious today (e.g. the shape of the top of the crown's dome), were a bit more appreciated. A lot of mid century western hats had similar shapes, but slightly different proportions, and slightly different ribbons. That's why so many hats get labled as an Open Road that are actually not. It might have the same height and width, but with a 2ply band.
- Is there a suggested first hat for a guy that wears button down L/S shirts and leather jackets?
Vintage OR is an easy enough get. Campdraft if you're impatient. I prefer vintage hats generally, and vintage Silverbelly dyes specifically over the modern Campdraft. But as far as bang for your buck, it's hard to beat.
- There's something recognizable about an Indiana Jones but it looks like it may be the functional equivalent of a baseball cap.
The Indy hat has a dimensional brim with the front and back slightly wider, so you get a tiny bit more coverage than the average fedora. I like the style, but it is relatively recognizable, and some folks can initially feel overwhelmed by the crown height.
- Is there a step up model that doesn't carry the connotation of a wearer attempting to emulate his fave movie star's costume?
Not sure I get your drift. A bound edge can denote a bit more dressy-ness over a non bound edge, but that's not a standard model per se. The other "step up" would be beaver over rabbit. If you can track one down, I happen to like the Stetson Fortune and Glory. It's not a "screen accurate" Indy hat, but it has a nice look to it because the brim has a deeper flange than the average Indy hat. And they were made in really good beaver felt.
- Why are there differences in available stiffness?
Different makers, different uses. The Stetson Playboy, for example, was offered as a lightweight hat that could be shaped multiple ways. So you want less stiffener. Hats with curled brims need relatively more stiffener to hold shape. Riding hats like the Derby were originally more or less a helmet, so very stiff. With modern hats, I have this hypothesis that the average consumer thinks a stiffer hat means better quality comparing say a wool crushable to a "nice" 10x cowboy hat. But that's just my half baked hypothesis.
- Is there a brim width that generally doesn't require you to remove the hat when you get in a vehicle?
More depends on the car methinks.
- Why do vintage fedoras often have odd creases in the brim and uneven shapes? Is that just mistreatment and poor storage?
The average ebay hat probably has not been stored in an archival quality situation, no. There are a million variables, but as a generalization, vintage hats typically have thinner felt and are less stiff. Part of the stiffness is just due to being older and have been worn. The thickness of the felt is because older felts seem to be denser. They are more malleable because they were intended to be sold open crown and shaped individually to the wearer's preference. So one might be able to buy a modern hat carrying the name of the Stetson Stratoliner, and that means you're getting a c-crown hat that was hydraulically pressed in by a machine. Whereas a vintage Strat can be shaped any number of ways because that's how hats used to be sold.

 

[Trouser Bark]

Nice! Thank you all!

Tonight I'll be much better informed as I float through different milliner sites looking to understand a little more. If there's one thing that seems interesting to me but not so easy to articulate it would be that there's a significant transition in this step. A man can wear one of a couple three different hat types and nothing about that decision will raise an eyebrow that day.

Not with a fedora though. The interesting part to me is that I dress for me and don't have any particular need to conform with the tastes of others however...

this next one is not a small step.

Thank you for the hand. Any and all add'l comments welcome!

 

[Trouser Bark]

There's many a good point made above, no point me repeating them.

I've read a ton of your posts and marveled at your lovely wife's skill. Unless it's an old comment I ran across as I was mining the Hat forum I understand she may be recuperating. Please let her know that some guy with an objectionable logon name on the other side of the world has had her in his thoughts on multiple occasions and I genuinely hope you both are doing well.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

I've read the first 20 pages of threads in the Hat forum and searched around for a sort of general noob tutorial and haven't found one. I see bits of helpful info buried in monstrous threads but nothing intended to show generally how to make the transition for a heretofore non fedora wearer.

I see comments on pairing, color, etc. but I'm looking for a specific thread for those of us that have no prior experience and would like to benefit from the mistakes you all have already made.

A pile of questions...

- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
- I see where one poster passed another wearer and said the other guy's hat was wool... how would he know?
- Why are there seemingly more than 100 different fedoras at some mfg's and nearly all look identical?
- Is there a suggested first hat for a guy that wears button down L/S shirts and leather jackets?
- I see a combination of four letters that some use when talking about their head shape. How do I learn more about that?
- There's something recognizable about an Indiana Jones but it looks like it may be the functional equivalent of a baseball cap.
- Is there a step up model that doesn't carry the connotation of a wearer attempting to emulate his fave movie star's costume?
- Why are there differences in available stiffness?
- Is there a brim width that generally doesn't require you to remove the hat when you get in a vehicle?
- Why do vintage fedoras often have odd creases in the brim and uneven shapes? Is that just mistreatment and poor storage?


A zillion questions and I'm ready for the next step.

I've been the baseball cap guy and for the last ten years have worn flat hats. I still like the flats but there's something captivating about a nice fedora.

Things I know I like are brims that don't have a taped edge, something that's not too dressy, and a color that's easy to pair.

Things I know I don't have what it takes to wear are stingy brims and trilby styles.

A common place where many of us made the transition from thin ribbon/western styles to fedoras (with wide ribbons and bows) is the Akubra Federation IV. They pop up used on eBay now and then but the only place to get a new one is from The Hattery in Katoomba, Australia. Here is the webpage:
https://hatsdirect.com/pages/the-fe...kiaEWnB-HUMeUzaEzjYnGFIaTeoCQjdzBDyzcnZQC85dF

These hats are great bang for the buck (though the prices did recently increase) and will keep your head dry and warm (warm to a degree - I can wear mine down to about zero degrees Fahrenheit); however, they are specifically meant to emulate Indiana Jones. But it does not matter what fedora you wear, you are going to get someone who will make an Indy reference, so if that bothers you then maybe a thin ribbon brimmed hat is a better choice for you.

There is a dedicated Fed IV thread on TFL.

So far as thin ribbons go, a Stetson Open Road is one of the easiest access points. I can recommend a 1970s Stetson Open Road 4x (or any Stetson 4X thin ribbon from the 1970s/80s time - you can find websites dedicated to explaining how to date a Stetson hat).

The reasons I recommend the 4x are:
1) they are inexpensive on the used market but still reasonable quality (some might beg to differ, but they stand up to hard wear)
2) the fur on a 70s/80s 4X is usually thick and dense and good for cold weather

If you have a bit more money and time, I can recommend getting together with Mike at Northwest Hats to order a bespoke hat. Tell him what style you're interested in and why you want it and he will be able to advise you. I don't know his current prices but he makes a damn fine product (particularly for beginners, in my opinion) for a really good price. For example, you could order a fedora that is exactly like a Raiders of the Lost Ark fedora but has a wide brim binding thus drastically changing the feel of the hat (that's just an example - you can literally order just about anything).

https://www.northwesthats.com/

Finally, one reason there is not a "beginner thread" is because the world of brimmed hats is huge. It's far too big for anybody to sit down and do a write up. Maybe a 300 page book, but even then....

This entire site is the "beginner thread." I recommend you use eBay to find hats that excite you, then utilize TFL's search function and learn about that brand/model/style. I've been at this hobby for 10 years this year (bought my first Akubra in 2014 from the Hattery) and this site has been my best friend. I am now going through the same process with leather (and also wishing there was a "beginner thread"!).

Hope this helps or maybe triggers some more specific questions.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

I've read the first 20 pages of threads in the Hat forum and searched around for a sort of general noob tutorial and haven't found one. I see bits of helpful info buried in monstrous threads but nothing intended to show generally how to make the transition for a heretofore non fedora wearer.

I see comments on pairing, color, etc. but I'm looking for a specific thread for those of us that have no prior experience and would like to benefit from the mistakes you all have already made.

A pile of questions...

- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
- I see where one poster passed another wearer and said the other guy's hat was wool... how would he know?
- Why are there seemingly more than 100 different fedoras at some mfg's and nearly all look identical?
- Is there a suggested first hat for a guy that wears button down L/S shirts and leather jackets?
- I see a combination of four letters that some use when talking about their head shape. How do I learn more about that?
- There's something recognizable about an Indiana Jones but it looks like it may be the functional equivalent of a baseball cap.
- Is there a step up model that doesn't carry the connotation of a wearer attempting to emulate his fave movie star's costume?
- Why are there differences in available stiffness?
- Is there a brim width that generally doesn't require you to remove the hat when you get in a vehicle?
- Why do vintage fedoras often have odd creases in the brim and uneven shapes? Is that just mistreatment and poor storage?


A zillion questions and I'm ready for the next step.

I've been the baseball cap guy and for the last ten years have worn flat hats. I still like the flats but there's something captivating about a nice fedora.

Things I know I like are brims that don't have a taped edge, something that's not too dressy, and a color that's easy to pair.

Things I know I don't have what it takes to wear are stingy brims and trilby styles.

Sorry, rereading your list of questions makes me think that maybe you don't realize the role that steam plays in felt hats. All felt hats over time will get a bit out of shape - the crown creases will shift a bit and the brims will sag or get screwy. When that happens, you just hit them with steam which makes the felt like butter: it can be molded like clay and then when it dries in a few minutes it will be rigid again.

Using steam, you can also radically change the shape of a fur felt hat - lower the crown, give it a new bash, curve the brim up on the sides - whatever.

Sorry if this is obvious to you but it was not to me when I was a newbie. I literally wore my first fur felt hat for two years before I realized I could change the crown on it. The questions you are asking makes me think that maybe you don't realize this either.

You can't do this with most wool hats, and that's just one reason why folks here are advising you to just avoid wool hats altogether (there are other reasons as well).

 

[Trouser Bark]

Sorry if this is obvious to you but it was not to me when I was a newbie.

Not much has been obvious to me so far. Fairly baffling, really.

Forty five years ago I had a leather cowboy hat. It fit like a frying pan and I never did like it. Somewhere around 25 years ago I bought a VERY thick wool cowboy looking hat; I think it was made by Filson. When I bought it it was ever so slightly tight and I thought it would stretch. I brought it up to the counter and the guy waved it around above a steamer and said 'oh yeah, pull 'er down snug and let it dry on your head. Should be good to go'.

By the time I took it off that thing had my head in a vice and it never did become comfortable. I wore it in the rain, snow, working outdoor... nothing fazed it and it remained a cementitious block until I eventually tapped out and gave it away.

Now I hope to make an informed choice and maybe this next one will be perfect!

Thanks again!

 

[Rmccamey]

Welcome to the hat side of the Lounge.

I can't add much more than what has been said. Definitely dress for yourself, but don't be surprised if your tastes ebb and flow over time. I always get compliments wearing hats, but I get compliments 10 to 1 wearing bowlers more than with any other style of hat. Be yourself but be open to new ideas and new looks.





I never imagined wearing a silly pork pie. But then I figured, what the hell. Turns out, they are fun little hats. Now days, it's hard to imagine not having a few around the house just to break up the monotony!

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Not much has been obvious to me so far. Fairly baffling, really.

Forty five years ago I had a leather cowboy hat. It fit like a frying pan and I never did like it. Somewhere around 25 years ago I bought a VERY thick wool cowboy looking hat; I think it was made by Filson. When I bought it it was ever so slightly tight and I thought it would stretch. I brought it up to the counter and the guy waved it around above a steamer and said 'oh yeah, pull 'er down snug and let it dry on your head. Should be good to go'.

By the time I took it off that thing had my head in a vice and it never did become comfortable. I wore it in the rain, snow, working outdoor... nothing fazed it and it remained a cementitious block until I eventually tapped out and gave it away.

Now I hope to make an informed choice and maybe this next one will be perfect!

Thanks again!

Okay, super beginner's notes:
-Fur felt is better than wool. You can do more with it and it won't shrink in the rain.
-Not all fur felt is the same. Mostly anything made before the 1960s will beat anything made anything made after the 1960s in terms of sheer pleasure to wear and handle. However, there are some hats made after the 1960s that I prefer for durability.
-Fur felt is particularly fun because of it's susceptibility to steam. You can mold the crown and brim and bring an old mangy looking felt back to life using steam.
-The rise of the automobile coincided with the decline of the brimmed hat. Hay brims became increasingly stingy (smaller) until finally brimmed hats kind of disappeared altegether.
-Hats are measured by brim size and crown height. Most collectors today want larger brims and larger crowns. This is a similar style as the 1930s and 1940s. Those hats are generally more expensive on the used market.
-eBay is the place to shop for used hats. There are other places, but that's the main one. You have to know your hats size. To do that, literally measure your head.

Just some quick notes. There's tons more - tons and tons more - but I have other things to do. Sorry again if some of that is obvious!