A Mystery USAF Cooper-- in Capeskin?

[armscye]

With warm weather in New England, the jacket hunting bug has bit again. Last week came my first score of the season, but with more than its share of mysteries.

In a rack of flea market treasures I found the dusty remnants of an A2, looking initially very non-milspec because of the obvious texture of the leather. Even from five yards away, the jacket had the striations and surface pebbling of lamb or cape. Still, as I approached I noted a mil-style throat latch and two piece sleeves.

My puzzlement began to deepen as I examined this dingy dog. It looked totally milspec in cut and details-- trim dimensions, one piece back, brown drill lining albeit without label, and a brass Ideal zipper. Still, no military flight jacket since 1931 has specified capeskin, and the leather was clearly that, not goat, cow, or horsehide. The broad one-piece back looked too wide to have come from even a lamb on steroids. There was a civilianish snap at the bottom of the windflap, but that could have been added by any local luggage repairman.

I asked the price, quick drew my wallet when I heard "five bucks", and headed for home to examine my treasure.

Regular readers will know I machine wash all my jackets, so I ran this one through my usual regimen of cold water front load wash with woolite, followed by leisurely air drying and hide reconditioning. Once cleaned up, the mystery intensified.

Based on the zipper, the pointed disco style collar, the leathercraft care label, the stitch holes outlining the missing label and two Velcro chest patches—one shield shaped, one rectangular--, and the pocket sew pattern, I concluded that I had found a first contract USAF Saddlery Cooper A2, probably in size 44, vintage circa 1988. Not only were civilian jackets not fitted with the Velcro, but the label residue indicates two stacked rectangles of similar size, characteristic of a Saddlery jacket, and definitely does not match the civilian orange label Coopers of that era.

All of which raises more questions than answers. Would any Air Force purchasing agent have authorized capeskin, even in the busy run-up to Desert Storm? Were USAF Saddlery jackets issued after inspection, or just sold at the PX, where violations of material specs might not be noticed? Could Cooper have delivered heavily pressed capeskin jackets, hoping they'd pass as goat? I invite commentary and speculation from Loungers.

 

[Atticus Finch]

That is an interesting jacket. Can you tell if the stitching that attached the Velcro receivers went through the lining? I ask because civilian jackets (usually orange label Coopers) were occasionally purchased and used by airmen. The airmen would attach the receivers themselves. An issued jacket has the receivers sewn onto the shell before the lining is installed so the stitching isn’t visible inside the lining.

Of course, I'm totally guessing, but I can't imagine that this is an issued jacket. There really wasn't a 1988 buildup before the 1990 Gulf War. Certainly nothing that would have required the Air Force to ignore specifications so existing aircrew could have enough leather jackets to wear. Not many airmen wear A-2s while they're flying, anyway. I think this is a civilian Cooper or a Saddlery that was privately purchased and adapted for military use by some airman who didn’t want to wait for an issued jacket.

AF

 

[armscye]

No velcro stitch marks in the lining, Atticus Finch. Plus the stitch marks for the two rectangular labels are not at all the same size as in my civilian orange-label Cooper. An orange Cooper label was about twice the size of a Saddlery milspec label, so the stitching would never match up. That's what's so odd about this jacket-- it is 100% milspec other than the hide and the bottom snap.

Re the 1988 date, I was just referencing the USAF first contract date. I'm guessing that the contract called for a series of deliveries over a period of years, and that these deliveries might have been accelerated once the build-up for Desert Storm began in 1990.

 

[GoodTimesGone]

The Velcro receivers on issued Saddlery Coopers are a grey color. What color are they on your jacket?
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Tom

 

[armscye]

No receivers are there-- only the stitching holes are there on my jacket.

 

[GoodTimesGone]

This jacket is a bit of a mystery. The zipper, lining details, and knits absolutely have the traits of a Cooper. The collar shape reminds me of lambskin Avirex jackets I have owned. This jacket could be one of the initial samples that Cooper presented to the DOD for approval. Perhaps more than one hide choice was offered for the potential contract.
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Tom

 

[Dr H]

Certainly has the look of cape with that grain.
My wartime Doniger A-2 - now sold but posted on FL - was identical to the goatskin issued jacket, but made in capeskin and sold through McGregor Sportswear.
Perhaps a similar situation with Cooper?