A couple of technical questions...

[Grimstar]

I'm working up a pattern for a '20's style suit, and I was wondering...those of you who have actual vintage ones...what is the average width of the lapels (measured along the gorge line) and how does it compare to, say, suits from the 40's? Also, on the front side seam (the one that runs from the armscye to the top of the waist pocket ) on suits from the '20's, does it run all the way to the bottom hem of the coat (like it does on most modern suits) or does it stop at the top of the waist pockets...i.e. is there smooth fabric with no seam below the pocket openings? I know suits were cut with the seam stopping at the top of the pocket in 1903 (I have a copy of a cutting manual from that time)...but I was wondering if it was still common in the '20's. Unfortunately, these two details aren't so easy to see in fashion illustrations of the period. And thanks in advance to anyone who takes the trouble to measure lapels. lol

More obscure questions to follow... J/K

Oooops...perhaps I should mention, I'm looking for data on SB suits, though DB info would be appreciated as well, since I'm sure I'll be working up a pattern for those too at some point.

 

[RevWarTaylor]

Let me look at the couple of 20s suits that I have, ill get back to you when i look at them.

On another note...do you have any info on tailors manuels from the 30s?

Neal Hurst

 

[Marc Chevalier]

This question will take months to answer here, Grimstar. As you know, measurements changed subtly (and sometimes not so subtly) every three years or so. The best thing might be to focus on the beginning, middle or end of the 1920s. Perhaps you could tell us which chunk of that decade you'd prefer to reproduce: 1920-'23, '24-'26, or '27-'29?

 

[Grimstar]

Well, to narrow it down a bit, I'd say mid-20's. Maybe 1926-27, when the captains of industry were at their peak, right before it all came crashing down.
In my opinion men have never dressed better than they did then, although the very beginning of the century (20th) runs a close second.

RevWarTaylor, actually, I don't know if I've seen any tailoring manuals from the 30's. Everyone interested in such things seems to be fascinated by the earlier times (everyone but those here, that is ) and the publishers only print what will sell. I'm sure there are some out there somewhere. I would really love to get my hands on an original, maybe someday I will. I missed out on a truly excellent one from the 40's on ebay a few months back. If I run into one, I'll certainly let you know.