Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

A barf worthy rip off of an appropriated pattern

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,826
Location
China
Shiniki as a tannery produces different types of leather. But there were not that many makers using Shinik back then. So when I referred to Shiniki, I am only thinking about the Shiniki RM, RC and FW use which I like very much. I have never handled any Himel or Goodwear or Fields. Also being the Outerwear section, we don't talk much about shell cordovan. Admittedly, Shiniki's shell is not that impressive. Other forums however do have groups of Shiniki fans (who would buy any leather from Shiniki) and Shell Cordovan fans (who would buy only shell cordavan shoes) but not here especially not in this section.
There would be bad batches of Shiniki just as we have seen that there have been bad batches of CXL (I remember a fellow member has complained about his Aero CXL fading after a few wear a few years back). QC of Shiniki IMO is still quite acceptable.
Anyway, I prefer "Shiniki" (those used by RM, RC and FW) to leather used by say LW because "Shiniki" does age quickly to look like vintage leather. The Shiniki of my RM J-24 would look like my vintage Buco J-24L after some wear but the leather LW J-23 (which I sold) would never turn out like vintage Buco. For one thing, LW has a blueish core. I can understand why LW uses chrome tanned leather but I often wonder why LW does not overdye their russet brown with black to create a more vintage shade that would fade like vintage leather.
 
Last edited:

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,955
Location
London
The above-comments about "Shinki" leather are well taken. Referring to "Shinki" leather is arguably no different than referring to "Horween" or "Victoria" leather. Moreover, my observation about weight and pliability is not consistently accurate. My first few jackets made from Shinki HH (from Himel and RMC) were all similar in weight and pliability, and this was the predicate for my exaltation of Shinki HH. However, my RMC Steinbeck and FW Mulholland have a substantially different Shinki HH that is much heavier. My FCL Tyler also uses a different Shinki HH that is different finish/color-wise. Thus, it is absolutely true that Shinki produces many different HHs of varying characteristics. I favor a certain subset of the Shinki hides more than the others.

@red devil I am not aware of anyone here on TFL that purchases jackets based on the cache associated with the brand. It is certainly possible, but my impression is that people here purchase jackets based on factors other than brand cache. Ironically, the brands we discuss here are completely unknown to the general public (with the possible exception of Schott) and, therefore, the pursuit of brand cache is a rather futile exercise in relationship to these brands (at least beyond the walls of TFL). I suspect brand cache may be a more common consideration for those purchasing mainstream designer brands.

@red devil I tried on an extraordinarily good fitting TFL cross-zip. Ain't happening. I do not like the extra material across the chest when the jacket is unzipped. Moreover, it projects an image that I cannot otherwise fulfil -- in other words, I am not nearly cool enough to wear a cross-zip as intended -- me wearing a cross-zip is the functional equivalent of a morbidly obese woman wearing a bikini.

Yes, of course, brand cachet is much more prevalent outside of the forum. We tend to be more pragmatic overall in this forum. Nevertheless, I had felt there was a trend to look for brands even here. Hence why I have been harping on just choosing a top end leather that is the best fit for oneself instead of just looking at name.

Which crosszip did you try? If you were looking at OTR, I would have imagined a Lewis Leather Lightning in their veg tan cowhide would look great on you - they should be able to adjust the fit to your requirements. You do not need to look cool, the jacket does it for you, that is the secret :D
 

barnabus

One Too Many
Messages
1,493
Location
Britain's oldest recorded town
Yes, of course, brand cachet is much more prevalent outside of the forum. We tend to be more pragmatic overall in this forum. Nevertheless, I had felt there was a trend to look for brands even here.

I agree with this.

I feel like there is cachet to certain brands within TFL itself. I've seen posts from people buying and importing hugely expensive (to my eyes!) foreign-made jackets that they've never even seen in person, never mind tried on.

"I've ordered such and such from xyz maker! Very nervous about how it will fit!" reads to me like someone who's buying for what they believe that brand represents*. Which is absolutely fine of course and I'm very pleased for members who get the result they're hoping for in those instances.

But I feel that there are plenty of jackets bought by members here because they're by TFL-fêted makers.


*of course, that "brand" can represent perceived pattern fit, quality, stitch count, grade of hide, wev - just as much as it can be about saying to people "I've got an xyz jacket".

(Nervous about posting this tbh, as this thread in particular feels like throwaway musings might be picked over word by word and interrogated for unintended meanings)
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,955
Location
London
I agree with this.

I feel like there is cachet to certain brands within TFL itself. I've seen posts from people buying and importing hugely expensive (to my eyes!) foreign-made jackets that they've never even seen in person, never mind tried on.

"I've ordered such and such from xyz maker! Very nervous about how it will fit!" reads to me like someone who's buying for what they believe that brand represents*. Which is absolutely fine of course and I'm very pleased for members who get the result they're hoping for in those instances.

But I feel that there are plenty of jackets bought by members here because they're by TFL-fêted makers.


*of course, that "brand" can represent perceived pattern fit, quality, stitch count, grade of hide, wev - just as much as it can be about saying to people "I've got an xyz jacket".

(Nervous about posting this tbh, as this thread in particular feels like throwaway musings might be picked over word by word and interrogated for unintended meanings)

Good point :)

No need to be nervous, we are just sharing thoughts here :)
 

Finn Vigorous

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Other forums however do have groups of Shiniki fans (who would buy any leather from Shiniki) and Shell Cordovan fans (who would buy only shell cordavan shoes).

These groups are not easily mixed as Shinki shell is not known for high quality. Horse(hide)s for courses.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,826
Location
China
I agree with this.

I feel like there is cachet to certain brands within TFL itself. I've seen posts from people buying and importing hugely expensive (to my eyes!) foreign-made jackets that they've never even seen in person, never mind tried on.

"I've ordered such and such from xyz maker! Very nervous about how it will fit!" reads to me like someone who's buying for what they believe that brand represents*. Which is absolutely fine of course and I'm very pleased for members who get the result they're hoping for in those instances.

But I feel that there are plenty of jackets bought by members here because they're by TFL-fêted makers.


*of course, that "brand" can represent perceived pattern fit, quality, stitch count, grade of hide, wev - just as much as it can be about saying to people "I've got an xyz jacket".

(Nervous about posting this tbh, as this thread in particular feels like throwaway musings might be picked over word by word and interrogated for unintended meanings)
I think it has to do with the expanding e-commerce. Brands previously not available in your country becomes easily accessible these days online. I was nervous about the fit of my Aero and LW. I ended up selling the LW and keeping the Aero but even the Aero is not my desired fit.
We also should not overlook the fact that people do return those expensive jackets. It is the selling technique that has changed the shopping habit. Customers are encouraged to take the clothes home to try cause you can always return it.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,826
Location
China
These groups are not easily mixed as Shinki shell is not known for high quality. Horse(hide)s for courses.
No I am not saying that they are mixed. We have the Shiniki fans who would even buy Shiniki shell and we have the Shell Cordovan fans who would buy tons of Alden sometimes every single model because of the Hoween Shell. Then there is also the craze for rare shell. It is not like we see those fans saying oh I like the #4 colour better therefore chose the #4 because they also have bought the #8 and the black as well. To me it is like saying a black Ferrari is more desirable than a red one because it is rarer.
 
Last edited:

Finn Vigorous

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Yup, my point was exactly that these do not mix easily as some tanneries are better in some leathers than others.

Fans do what fans do, but I would never take Shinki shell before Horween and even Comipel. Yet the Shinki my FW Brakeman is made of is way nicer than many Horween and European veg tanned offerings.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,345
Posted today by instagram account 'reb_bel'

904D1FD9-1CD7-4499-A922-C2304C983C7F.jpeg


Same jacket on Fine Creek Leathers' Instagram account:

AD8DFC22-9EB1-481D-9F43-74BD2F6D1FE4.jpeg



A case of 'ads vs. reality'?
2ADB6F11-9954-4F56-92AD-0372C683BEB4.jpeg
 

willyto

One Too Many
Messages
1,616
Location
Barcelona
They're just showing you a heavilyt used, burnished and patina'd jacket vs the one you get from the hanger . Could be done with any maker but they really post their pictures with a lot of shine and I say that's because of the photography and lighting used.
 
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
They're just showing you a heavilyt used, burnished and patina'd jacket vs the one you get from the hanger . Could be done with any maker but they really post their pictures with a lot of shine and I say that's because of the photography and lighting used.
The water torture treatment and brown zipper tape make it more interesting too.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,345
They're just showing you a heavilyt used, burnished and patina'd jacket vs the one you get from the hanger . Could be done with any maker but they really post their pictures with a lot of shine and I say that's because of the photography and lighting used.
I purposefully not picked a photo of a heavily used Leon as an example.

Heavily used from Fine Creek's Instagram :

D6853276-68A6-4DB0-B133-1419C1E4C72B.jpeg
 
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
The chopped bits are a strange design element that diminishes the jacket.
Really does. Aside from that I just can’t see any reason to pursue this pattern over the 118 perfecto from Schott, which I think is a superior jacket in terms of fit and overall design. Particularly when you remove the Instagram treatment.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,602
Location
California
I feel like there is cachet to certain brands within TFL itself. I've seen posts from people buying and importing hugely expensive (to my eyes!) foreign-made jackets that they've never even seen in person, never mind tried on.
I have absolutely bought jackets because of the makers cachet here on the lounge. I had never heard of Aero, Eastman, Langlitz, Lost Worlds, Good Wear, ThedI, etc. before I found this place, nor had I ever spent more than $500.00 on jacket. Within a year here I was spending twice (and even three times) that much money on jackets that I had never seen from people I had never met.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,345
These are some sick fadez. Good job on the teacore coating, the wear looks natural.
They're not for everyone I guess but I can understand why people appreciate wear / teacore like this. Has anyone seen a FCL that shows age like this anywhere but on FCL's Instagram?
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,991
Really does. Aside from that I just can’t see any reason to pursue this pattern over the 118 perfecto from Schott, which I think is a superior jacket in terms of fit and overall design. Particularly when you remove the Instagram treatment.

Or the Chromexcel Perfecto if you’re really into brown core like the above photo.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,295
Messages
3,078,182
Members
54,244
Latest member
seeldoger47
Top