5 Star Californian/Campus Halfbelt red russet goat!

[Monitor]

Really fantastic work on this jacket but I just gotta say, that black jacket totally surprised me as I was scrolling down the thread, how freaking nice it is. That's a top work and those guys really nailed what makes these vtg jackets what they are.

 

[jeo]

Yep, that’s how the original was config’d and I thought it looked cool and a bit less predictable!

It was a great choice! definitely more interesting than what you usually see.

I remember you made a comment one time about my rainbow country jacket cuffs looking like gauntlets...well you got an ancient warrior gauntlet thing going on there man, so cool!

 

[ton312]

5 Stars ability to accurately copy a jacket from photos, turn around quickly, while listening to the customer fit issues are impressive. I'm not sure of the cost, but understand it is quite reasonable.

Bill Kelso has an archive of jackets they will make. They ask about patterning one of my jackets. It did not work out. They did require having the jacket in hand. No idea how this worked for them.

I have thought about having someone make some of my vintage jackets that are too small for me. These are jacket styles that no one is making. I may have been contacted by 5 Star through my youtube channel, but thought it was not legit and did not follow through.

The original pictured above I owned was the jacket John Chapman used to create his Arcadia.

This is a Goodwear Arcadia I owned in Shinki horsehide. So what is the difference?

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I can assure you that shinki is a much nicer leather! But I’ve wanted this model for ages. Opportunities did arise but I couldn’t get the timing right. For me this 5 star scratches the itch. Certainly this isn’t a GW BUT....if I could get Shawn the materials I have absolutely no doubt he would produce one that would be indistinguishable.

 

[Claybertrand]

I can assure you that shinki is a much nicer leather! But I’ve wanted this model for ages. Opportunities did arise but I couldn’t get the timing right. For me this 5 star scratches the itch. Certainly this isn’t a GW BUT....if I could get Shawn the materials I have absolutely no doubt he would produce one that would be indistinguishable.

I wondered about if someone has contacted Horween or someone else to try to source some A Grade Horse or Steer to try to get to Shawn. I know some may have concern about the durability over time of the stitching etc. but assuming it is all as sound as it appears, the only major upgrade would be to source your own HH or Steer for them to use. That seems like the one thing that would instantly kick up the quality multiple levels.

How many square feet of hide does a typical jacket require??? Say, a jacket in Ton's size for example?? Does anyone know?? Maybe we can ask Shawn??? This may be helpful if someone wanted to source their own hides. A whole new level of customization.

 

[tmitchell59]

Certainly this isn’t a GW BUT....if I could get Shawn the materials I have absolutely no doubt he would produce one that would be indistinguishable.

That would be a game changer for me. As it is I'm impressed. You next jacket will tell more of a story. When do you anticipate it?

 

[ton312]

That would be a game changer for me. As it is I'm impressed. You next jacket will tell more of a story. When do you anticipate it?

Haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I’m not sure what I want to do in terms of the hide. That one really ramps up the degree of difficulty but I feel it’s equally important to have the right hide. I wish Shawn still had his HH. Then the decision would be made!

 

[tmitchell59]

How many square feet of hide does a typical jacket require??? Say, a jacket in Ton's size for example?? Does anyone know?? Maybe we can ask Shawn??? This may be helpful if someone wanted to source their own hides. A whole new level of customization.

Quality leather is expensive. This would be worth it to me if they can accurately reproduce what I want. I know no other maker who would attempt to do what they are doing. I could send them the jackets I wanted made.

I may contact them about such a project.

 

[tmitchell59]

Haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I’m not sure what I want to do in terms of the hide. That one really ramps up the degree of difficulty but I feel it’s equally important to have the right hide. I wish Shawn still had his HH. Then the decision would be made!

Yes, the proper hide will be important. This jacket will be a bit more complicated. It will tell a story for sure.

 

[Claybertrand]

Haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I’m not sure what I want to do in terms of the hide. That one really ramps up the degree of difficulty but I feel it’s equally important to have the right hide. I wish Shawn still had his HH. Then the decision would be made!

Quality leather is expensive. This would be worth it to me if they can accurately reproduce what I want. I know no other maker who would attempt to do what they are doing. I could send them the jackets I wanted made.

I may contact them about such a project.

You said it Terry. I started browsing hides in earnest and they are pricey. I wonder if we all could go in on a Bulk Purchase..... like, we could buy a mini HERD of hides and get a better price.

The world leather market is a whole 'nother new thing to navigate. Hard to do it accurately from behind a desk and thru a computer screen.

I know you have truly grail items that you have kept even when they don't fit you. You could have those remade to size. Its a game changer for that aspect of design---when you actually have the jackets in your collection and you want a custom take off from one of those. Look what Ton is doing with drawings and instructions and going off of photos for details. You would have less uncertainty having actual jackets in hand. If you wanted to do a full custom with mixed elements from your favorite jackets that baby would be LOADED!!!!!!

Honestly, you should try to buy half of 5* then have all of your jackets made!!!!!!!! That would be a hell of a line up. I hope you do throw your hat into the 5* ring Terry at least to try them out on a custom remake. Seems like it'd be right up your alley and give you some new adventures in this great hobby.

 

[handymike]

That’s the only caveat- if I were to really design a jacket, I’d want to be able to profit from the sales too. I know most makers claim customers designs as their own, but there should be some kind of commission/ split.

 

[Bahabp100]

Haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I’m not sure what I want to do in terms of the hide. That one really ramps up the degree of difficulty but I feel it’s equally important to have the right hide. I wish Shawn still had his HH. Then the decision would be made!

There is a large swatch collection of hides and shearling, wools and more floating around another thread . That should definitely help you decide. Shawn will also mail you one for $25 if pictures are not enough

 

[Bahabp100]

That’s the only caveat- if I were to really design a jacket, I’d want to be able to profit from the sales too. I know most makers claim customers designs as their own, but there should be some kind of commission/ split.

I’m pretty sure he is operating on razor thin margins. At $250 - 280 includinging shipping plus material and labor seems thin to me

 

[Seb Lucas]

Nice work Ton- you are quite literally an inspiration. With an eye for fit detail you have helped 5 Star transcend the blocky, made in Pakistan look to being a maker of quality repops. I wonder if they can take these learnings and apply them to their patterning in general or if there will always be a need to stipulate evey measurement.

I think they need to make a line of 3 or 4 'Tony of the Fedora Lounge' jackets in period fittings as a part of their range, with all patterns articulated from size 36 to 48.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I’m pretty sure he is operating on razor thin margins. At $250 - 280 includinging shipping plus material and labor seems thin to me

It's Pakistan - if they were making these for locals they would cost far less.

 

[ton312]

I’m pretty sure he is operating on razor thin margins. At $250 - 280 includinging shipping plus material and labor seems thin to me

I would not be surprised to see 5 star prices creep up. Anyone who wants one of the patterns I sent can have it in their size for $50-100 less than I paid. I’m paying for the pattern work, as is everyone else who has sent a pattern. The key for me would be a larger variety of hides, some small but nevertheless important QC improvements and for the love of GOD, better presentation when shipped. I have absolutely zero doubt about skill and craftsmanship or the final product. Some tiny tweaks could go a very long way in advancing his profit margin. Increasing the purchase price=exponentially increased expectation. With that said Shawn might be content to occupy his current marketplace slot. Which is certainly unique. I have purchased an Aero’s worth of 5 stars while waiting for my next Aero. So there’s that too.

 

[tmitchell59]

You said it Terry. I started browsing hides in earnest and they are pricey. I wonder if we all could go in on a Bulk Purchase..... like, we could buy a mini HERD of hides and get a better price.

The world leather market is a whole 'nother new thing to navigate. Hard to do it accurately from behind a desk and thru a computer screen.

I know you have truly grail items that you have kept even when they don't fit you. You could have those remade to size. Its a game changer for that aspect of design---when you actually have the jackets in your collection and you want a custom take off from one of those. Look what Ton is doing with drawings and instructions and going off of photos for details. You would have less uncertainty having actual jackets in hand. If you wanted to do a full custom with mixed elements from your favorite jackets that baby would be LOADED!!!!!!

Honestly, you should try to buy half of 5* then have all of your jackets made!!!!!!!! That would be a hell of a line up. I hope you do throw your hat into the 5* ring Terry at least to try them out on a custom remake. Seems like it'd be right up your alley and give you some new adventures in this great hobby.

Sounds like I need you for an agent! I've thought about several projects with my jacket collection, including having my own line based on my collection. Bill Kelso offering to make from their achieve is an interesting idea. I have no idea how successful that is.

Creating jackets from vintage originals is nothing new. Many jackets today are based on old jackets. I have the original jackets but not the resources to have them made. Perhaps there is an avenue.

 

[ton312]

Nice work Ton- you are quite literally an inspiration. With an eye for fit detail you have helped 5 Star transcend the blocky, made in Pakistan look to being a maker of quality repops. I wonder if they can take these learnings and apply them to their patterning in general or if there will always be a need to stipulate evey measurement.

I think they need to make a line of 3 or 4 'Tony of the Fedora Lounge' jackets in period fittings as a part of their range, with all patterns articulated from size 36 to 48.

Thanks for the kind words Seb! I have certainly enjoyed the process as it allows me to be a bit creative and find some really great jackets to wear!

 

[tmitchell59]

With that said Shawn might be content to occupy his current marketplace slot. Which is certainly unique. I have purchased an Aero’s worth of 5 stars while waiting for my next Aero. So there’s that too.

Yep

 

[Seb Lucas]

That’s the only caveat- if I were to really design a jacket, I’d want to be able to profit from the sales too. I know most makers claim customers designs as their own, but there should be some kind of commission/ split.

I think that could only apply if you actually made up and sent them the pattern templates for cutting.

 

[El Marro]

How many square feet of hide does a typical jacket require??? Say, a jacket in Ton's size for example??

I sourced the leather from Horween for a jacket that JL made me about five years ago. I purchased two “sides” of steerhide and each side was approximately 20 square feet. Once the jacket was complete and there was probably about four or five square feet left over. FYI the jacket was a size 46 with a 27 inch back length.