5* 1950’s All Weather Half belt repro seal brown goat

[RILO]

Thanks for posing this question to Shawn. Looks like the non distressed Buffalo CAN be requested.................... assuming its a fairly clean hide I'd be interested in non-distressed Seal Buffalo.

 

[RILO]

 

[Claybertrand]

Great and helpful communication!!

 

[Hobbes1]

Interesting. I've asked him a couple of times about horsehide. He says unavailable but will let me know if any comes in.....maybe not enough demand.

 

[handymike]

I like the Veg Tan goat!

 

[CRP]

100% spot on perfect. Literally no deviation.

ton312 - you seem extremely happy with the fit and it does look perfect. Shawn recommended I add 6 inches to my body measurements (circumference) for a jacket fit which can take a thin sweater under it: chest 45"=51" jacket chest, waist 38 but thickest around belly at 39"=45" jacket waist, and also neck 17"=18.5" inner jacket circumference. I'm looking at the Vintage CR in premium goat from 5* and wanted your opinion on the sizing since your jacket turned out perfect from what I can tell.

I'm 6'0" and 205 lbs. and am trying to use your template for my measurements, but I'm either a lot thicker/fatter or maybe the 6 inch allowance is too much? Ton312/MrProper or anyone else with extensive 5* experience, please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks

 

[MrProper]

I think 6 inch is way too much. With a thin t-shirt I have a chest size of around 43.3" and my jackets optimally have a p2p of 23" - 23.5", depending on the thickness of the leather.

maybe this excel could help to calculate a first draft
https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/0jMnpWYnVlqP84flBTLHnihqA#jacket_measurements

 

[ton312]

ton312 - you seem extremely happy with the fit and it does look perfect. Shawn recommended I add 6 inches to my body measurements (circumference) for a jacket fit which can take a thin sweater under it: chest 45"=51" jacket chest, waist 38 but thickest around belly at 39"=45" jacket waist, and also neck 17"=18.5" inner jacket circumference. I'm looking at the Vintage CR in premium goat from 5* and wanted your opinion on the sizing since your jacket turned out perfect from what I can tell.

I'm 6'0" and 205 lbs. and am trying to use your template for my measurements, but I'm either a lot thicker/fatter or maybe the 6 inch allowance is too much? Ton312/MrProper or anyone else with extensive 5* experience, please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks

I agree with Mr. P, 6” is WAY too much and the tendency is for 5 star to size several sizes too big. I actually decreased all my width measurements quite significantly in order to get this fit and even with that it is not an overly trim fit. I can get plenty of layers under it.

 

[CRP]

I think 6 inch is way too much. With a thin t-shirt I have a chest size of around 43.3" and my jackets optimally have a p2p of 23" - 23.5", depending on the thickness of the leather.

maybe this excel could help to calculate a first draft
https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/0jMnpWYnVlqP84flBTLHnihqA#jacket_measurements

MrProper - I used the Excel spreadsheet you referenced using inches with 0.25" for material thickness and 1.0" for room/space calculation. It ends up with body chest 45" = 26.43" jacket = 52.85". Shawn is recommending a 51.2" jacket chest with is his L/46 size template, which is smaller than the spreadsheet recommendation. It seems like you are using about a 4" spread between chest body (43") and chest jacket (47"). Are you able to put a sweatshirt or thin sweater under it? I'm in Michigan so will need to layer.

 

[CRP]

I agree with Mr. P, 6” is WAY too much and the tendency is for 5 star to size several sizes too big. I actually decreased all my width measurements quite significantly in order to get this fit and even with that it is not an overly trim fit. I can get plenty of layers under it.

ton312 - how much of a gap are you using between body measurements and jacket measurements? I unfortunately have only one oversized A2 leather jacket, so I'm limited in jackets for comparison. Primary concern is in the chest and waist measurements. I'm using 11" for the armhole/armscye and am comfortable with the other measurements. How low/close did you go with your chest and waist width measurements?

 

[MrProper]

MrProper - I used the Excel spreadsheet you referenced using inches with 0.25" for material thickness and 1.0" for room/space calculation. It ends up with body chest 45" = 26.43" jacket = 52.85". Shawn is recommending a 51.2" jacket chest with is his L/46 size template, which is smaller than the spreadsheet recommendation. It seems like you are using about a 4" spread between chest body (43") and chest jacket (47"). Are you able to put a sweatshirt or thin sweater under it? I'm in Michigan so will need to layer.

Of course, the excel can only give a rough guide, because the material is also a factor that cannot be found in the Excel.
However, if I take 0.23" for the material thickness and 0.4" for the room/space, then I get the 23.6" of my Aero Ridley. I can put a sweater or vest underneath it without any problems. I like it also rather tight. It's best to take a jacket that fits well and measure it and compare it with the numbers of the excel and do some fine tuning.

 

[CRP]

Thanks for the advice. I'll try to find a jacket to measure. Most of my jackets are either suites or technical (climbing, ski, running...) jackets. I can see this leather jacket craving may get expensive and addictive if not controlled.

 

[ton312]

ton312 - how much of a gap are you using between body measurements and jacket measurements? I unfortunately have only one oversized A2 leather jacket, so I'm limited in jackets for comparison. Primary concern is in the chest and waist measurements. I'm using 11" for the armhole/armscye and am comfortable with the other measurements. How low/close did you go with your chest and waist width measurements?

The chest on my jacket is actually smaller than my measured chest by 1”. The shoulder measurement is about the same as actual and the waist and hem larger (in part b/c it’s a Halfbelt). If I were to duplicate these numbers in a heavier hide I don’t think it would fit. For comparisons sake this Lost Worlds HB has a chest that is 1” larger, shoulders .5” larger, sleeve 2” shorter, waist and hem a couple inches larger.

5 star:

 

[Claybertrand]

The chest on my jacket is actually smaller than my measured chest by 1”. The shoulder measurement is about the same as actual and the waist and hem larger (in part b/c it’s a Halfbelt). If I were to duplicate these numbers in a heavier hide I don’t think it would fit. For comparisons sake this Lost Worlds HB has a chest that is 1” larger, shoulders .5” larger, sleeve 2” shorter, waist and hem a couple inches larger.
View attachment 278237
5 star:
View attachment 278238

Hey Ton, is the 5 Star photo a reverse image or did you have your zipper slide/pull put on the left side of the jacket?? Does 5 Star by default use the left side for the slide/pull????

 

[ton312]

Hey Ton, is the 5 Star photo a reverse image or did you have your zipper slide/pull put on the left side of the jacket?? Does 5 Star by default use the left side for the slide/pull????

They do it on the left! It doesn’t bother me as I’m ambidextrous*
* with zippers

 

[handymike]

Wow! Something else we need to remember...

 

[Seb Lucas]

I have zippers on both sides - I have never noticed any difference in using them.

 

[ton312]

I have zippers on both sides - I have never noticed any difference in using them.

Same. Never cared.

 

[CRP]

The chest on my jacket is actually smaller than my measured chest by 1”. The shoulder measurement is about the same as actual and the waist and hem larger (in part b/c it’s a Halfbelt). If I were to duplicate these numbers in a heavier hide I don’t think it would fit. For comparisons sake this Lost Worlds HB has a chest that is 1” larger, shoulders .5” larger, sleeve 2” shorter, waist and hem a couple inches larger.
View attachment 278237
5 star:
View attachment 278238

Damn! I'm just going to have to take the plunge and see how it turns out. Thanks for the feedback. Last thing I need is a new obsession.

 

[ton312]

Damn! I'm just going to have to take the plunge and see how it turns out. Thanks for the feedback. Last thing I need is a new obsession.

My advise would be to size it down a bit. They seem to want to go larger than smaller and I think too much so. Use my template and Mr. P’s. It’ll work! But go for a bit more trim than you’d think would work.