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5* 1950’s All Weather Half belt repro seal brown goat

Messages
17,483
Location
Chicago
Call it "The CarlTon 31284", 10% discount to TFL members. Orders starting in 2021.
The CARLTON!
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Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,548
And just like that.....the CARLTON was born. Legend.

The jacket is SWEET SWEETNESS man..... This is gonna be my winter project--to try to have something made as bitchen as this from 5Star. Thanks for getting us some pics in the gloom. I look forward to more. That collar is PIMP!!!!!!!!!!! 2 Week turnaround!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!?!?!? WHAAAAAAATTTTTT!??!!?!?!?!? Unreal.....
 
Messages
17,483
Location
Chicago
And just like that.....the CARLTON was born. Legend.

The jacket is SWEET SWEETNESS man..... This is gonna be my winter project--to try to have something made as bitchen as this from 5Star. Thanks for getting us some pics in the gloom. I look forward to more. That collar is PIMP!!!!!!!!!!! 2 Week turnaround!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!?!?!? WHAAAAAAATTTTTT!??!!?!?!?!? Unreal.....
Do it man!! Bombard with detail and be extremely specific. My gut says they want to go larger than what you would expect from the numbers. Be precise and you will be thrilled! I’ve got a winter jacket kicking around in my head for what’s next. Need to find out what Shawn can do for linings beyond satin and drill but not as warm as sheepskin.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Yes, this is by far a much better made jacket than the first one!
The fit looks great and it suits you very well.
The collar takes the win for me, very impressive indeed.

Hope we get to see the black goat in action soon.
 

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,548
Do it man!! Bombard with detail and be extremely specific. My gut says they want to go larger than what you would expect from the numbers. Be precise and you will be thrilled! I’ve got a winter jacket kicking around in my head for what’s next. Need to find out what Shawn can do for linings beyond satin and drill but not as warm as sheepskin.

I've got a rough idea for a Vanson Ike x Aero Highwayman x Vintage Herc and also trying to do a take off from my 70s era Langlitz Goatskin Flight Jacket but with leather waistband and cuffs in place of knits and adding a chest pocket and a rear yoke.....

With the huge textile industry in Pakistan I would imagine Shawn can source A-Z in different liners. I want to try to get a jacket lined in corduroy if possible. You'd think you could get him to find some nice wool options but without wearing them, you might be risking the itchiness factor.

Goat herding is perhaps more prevalent there too than other parts of the world (at least--relative to other areas) so I would expect him to be able to source Goat hide pretty easily and regularly more so than perhaps other hide types. I wonder if that is why the Goat is outshining the Cow and other options. That Buffalo looked cool grainwise on your Cossack (and I don't know about its weight/thickness) but I wasn't into the pre-distressed look. If he could add non distressed Buffalo that would be and interesting choice. Nontheless, the options can only grow from here.

I think more than a few of us will be trying our hands at custom designs based on your experience.
 
Last edited:

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,836
Location
East Java
congrats, the jacket model and fit perfectly suit you, the sleeve looks slim but not too tight on you, you must be real happy with the collar.
 

jonesy86

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,610
Location
Kauai
Caught a little break in the gloom and really wanted to post some at least half way decent pics of this jacket along with my thoughts on the build. I’ll update with better pics tomorrow but had to put something together for this jacket as it really is a gem imho.

First thing I want to say is that I believe Five Star makes a great jacket. I won’t compare it to Aero or any of the other high end, top dollar makers. I don’t think that is fair and there really is no point. The important point is simply that the jacket materials, construction and fit are all good! The appeal for me with 5 star is my ability to influence the design, completely tailor the fit, and have it turned around for a relatively small amount of money in a very short amount of time. I have hundreds of images of vintage jackets that I would like to have built. This process with Shawn brings a huge smile to my face.

I provided the following size information to Shawn to guide the build:
Neck hole diameter: 18”
Shoulders: 19”
Chest p2p: 22.5”
Waist:20.5”
Hem:21”
Sleeve:26.5” (Outseam)
Sleeve: 19” (inseam/pit to cuff)-high armhole
Bicep:8.5”
Elbow:7”
Cuff:6”
Armscye: 11”
1” front drop
26” back length
4.5” collar point (wide collar)
The jacket is based on this extinct vintage Halfbelt:
View attachment 273087 View attachment 273088
my jacket is seal brown premium goatskin, with poly satin seal brown liner and thread. I took the liberty of adding ornamental horn buttons to the cuff, which are standard with olive green storm cuffs.
View attachment 273100 View attachment 273101 View attachment 273102
And some fit pics:
View attachment 273103 View attachment 273104 View attachment 273105 View attachment 273106

I am thoroughly delighted with the end result and look forward to additional reproduction projects with 5 Star going forward! I will upload some better shots of the jacket in the coming days. Have a great weekend loungers!
He nailed the collar, nice.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,296
Location
Europe
I would be interested to hear feedback over this winter from both you & @ton312 as to how this particular Seal Brown Heavy Goat from 5* handles the rain/snow and how it generally develops with wear over time. Any dye bleeding, etc

I'm afraid I won't wear the jacket enough that it will leave noticeable marks.
Home office and too many other jackets are not conducive to this.
But in February/March I wore it almost every day and in some places the topcoat wears off and the brown underneath comes out. I like it.
So far, the jacket has withstood snow and rain without any problems.
At the moment I like to choose a jacket to wear at home :D
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,296
Location
Europe
Bombard with detail and be extremely specific. My gut says they want to go larger than what you would expect from the numbers. Be precise and you will be thrilled!


That is the point. Even if you have the feeling that you are being too petty, then get even more detailed. and repeat over and over and reassure that it has arrived.
To make matters worse, I believe that I have specified everything, but after the mail has been sent, I think of dozens of things that I overlooked.
That means a lot of further emails, which can cause confusion.
At some point you have to collect everything again and communicate in a concentrated manner.
Fortunately, Shawn seems very patient and can handle it. ;)
 
Messages
17,483
Location
Chicago
That is the point. Even if you have the feeling that you are being too petty, then get even more detailed. and repeat over and over and reassure that it has arrived.
To make matters worse, I believe that I have specified everything, but after the mail has been sent, I think of dozens of things that I overlooked.
That means a lot of further emails, which can cause confusion.
At some point you have to collect everything again and communicate in a concentrated manner.
Fortunately, Shawn seems very patient and can handle it. ;)
100% agreed! At certain points I was confusing myself so I had to start over with a “just to confirm” email. LOL. Shawn is great though. Patient, asks questions and really wants to deliver exactly as requested. I really appreciate your help Mr P. Without it I’m quite sure there are details I would have neglected again. Looking forward to seeing how your sheepskin project turns out!
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,296
Location
Europe
When I customized a jacket at 5*, then I've never specified a size as a basis. Different e.g. than with Aero.
If you need an approximate size, it will probably be best to look up the measurements given by Ton in the size charts of 5*. The only question then is which model?
 

Pandemic

One Too Many
Messages
1,503
Location
In The Flat Field
I think that Ton has provided a blueprint of form fields we can cut and paste to spec the fit of custom orders going forward. Thank you!

I’m thinking about ordering a cafe racer from them, so now it’s just a matter of materials and style tweaks!
 

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