3oz leather means...?

[jamespibworth@n]

Just thinking what exactly 3oz leather means?

I have just weighed some of my A2 jackets (all 40” except L/Worlds 42”) and got this result:

Cooper Goat 250g
Eastman Werber 300g
Aero H/Hide 520g
Aero S/Hide 740g
L/Worlds Dubow 820g

How come the Werber and Aero are both stated as 3oz leather?

Any ideas chaps?

 

[Mike K.]

Leather thickness is normally defined in ounces - approximately how many ounces that one square foot of leather weighs on average.

 

[greyhound68]

Leather thicknesses are described using weight units of ounces. Although the statement is in ounces only, it is an abbreviation of ounces per square foot. Each ounce is equal to 0.40 mm in thickness. This is from the Gibson and Barnes catalog

 

[Alan Eardley]

Leather thicknesses are described using weight units of ounces. Although the statement is in ounces only, it is an abbreviation of ounces per square foot. Each ounce is equal to 0.40 mm in thickness. This is from the Gibson and Barnes catalog

Approximately, of course. You often see 3 oz leather quoted as 1.5mm.

Alan

 

[HungaryTom]

How come the Werber and Aero are both stated as 3oz leather?

Any ideas chaps?

Hi,

Aero and Lost Worlds get their horsehide (heavy and mid-weight) from the www.horween.com tannery. Maybe the steerhides too.

Their webpage contents tell this info by 99,999% safety.
Your home jacket weighing also indicates that.

Aero and Lost World sometimes tell in their sale section that their discount jackets are made from heavier, lighter, grainier etc. hides than their first class-hides/full priced jackets.

Hides are a natural product-irregularities guaranteed. The cattle, goats, horses are individuals and different- luckily not yet clones.

My befriended shoemaker told that some of the shell cordovans -Horweens flagship produce- he gets from his supplier are sometimes also rather so-so: somewhat too small or have scratches.
He puts those thinner hides in those parts where perfection it is not needed.
He doesn't displays the obvious flaw/imperfection on the center of the toe, etc.
He re-sends only the worst cases.
The weight of the shells is also not always the same-smaller ones are thinner and lighter.
But the prices are also not the same - lesser grades cost less.
That German tanner and supplier is even a right and honourable businessman.
Horween also.
The supplier has even lesser grades on stock he doesn't offer for shoemakers.
Those go for watch straps maybe.
The best -biggest and regular -shells go for bags made by some German manufactures fetching some thousands of EUR.
Simple economy: everything gets processed.
If leatherworkers would buy and sell only perfect leathers - you would not get any leather produce.
This was first hand info - I translated his leathers order/inquiry and communications through 2006. I got nice prices in return.

This young shoemaker is really talented. The German tanner was satisfied with his shoes-that Gentleman gets enough comparison- tons of German made to measure shoemakers buy their raw materials from him. So this case study is not from the bottom-feeder segment.

You saw the differences within shell cordovan-"the leather legend" -which is a specific product of a specific company - I don't see any reason why that should be different with leathers processed as jackets.

I know, this is not a sufficient answer- ask Eastman directly.

Another possible solution of the mistery: You were measuring the complete jackets, not the leather. Aero might use very heavy lining and threads for the stitching.
This could be the clue of their life-time guarantee and why they complained in their on-line catalogue that the making of their Shawl collar barnstormer wears off their tailors...

Regards

 

[jamespibworth@n]

Thanks fellas,

Very interesting and much to consider.

I am thinking now that in order to find out how heavy a particular jacket will be is to buy one!
I would say that if you purchased, say, an Eastman Werber then the weight will vary from one to another but I would venture a guess they will mostly be on the light side. Alternatively a Lost Worlds would almost certainly be heavier but again with slight differences from one jacket to another.

All this just goes to show why each jacket is individual and one of the reasons that we find pleasure in owning one, or a few, or many!

 

[Fletch]

Whereas the Cooper is so light because people are actually supposed to fly combat aircraft in them.

 

[HungaryTom]

Jacket weight

Whereas the Cooper is so light because people are actually supposed to fly combat aircraft in them.

Dear All,

I think that jacket weight should not become a religious value.
The beauty of the jacket and the utility value counts.
Eastman is very popular for reasons.

Regards.

 

[Estevan]

It all depends on what you like. If you want a lighter jacket then there are many manufactures that can comply with your request. In the same breath, they also offer heavier weight jackets. It's about what you're looking for. You have to compare all the factors not just the manufacturer. We sometimes get caught up in this manufacturer vs. that manufacturer. It all boils down to what you're looking for.