30s German jacket?

[cpdv]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sakko-Herre...d=100033&prg=1011&rk=1&rkt=3&sd=281024449793&
That do you guys think of this jacket? Early 30s or late 20s? I have to admit that i'm not too familiar with German suits of the period.

 

[DamianM]

It looks to be 20s
The way those arm holes flare at the ends

 

[cpdv]

I think I may have to had it to my daily rotation, if the measurement match up with me. I'm afraid I don't know what I am in cm right off the top of my head.

 

[Tomasso]

The way those arm holes flare at the ends

AKA flared cuffs.

 

[DamianM]

AKA flared cuffs.

:eusa_clap

 

[Fastuni]

The flare looks to be rather due to the pressing ("twisting" a bit the sleeves).
As to the date... it screams early 30's to me. Very late 20's is just as much a possibility.
1929-1933 is my hunch.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

yes, surely just the pressing.

Re size, appro 36 short. Measures Approx 17.5" shoulders, 20" chest, 24" arms, 26" rear length.

 

[cpdv]

yes, surely just the pressing.

Re size, appro 36 short. Measures Approx 17.5" shoulders, 20" chest, 24" arms, 26" rear length.

I have a size 38 short jacket that I wear frequently that has and I kid you not literally the same measurements!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Yes, you'll find with different manufacturers that those measures will be found anywhere from 34S-38S …

 

[cpdv]

How lovely, I hope to be swilling champagne in Weimar decadence after my next paycheck!

 

[Two Types]

On the issue of sleeve flare: I have a similar German jacket from the same period (thanks to Fastuni). The first thing i noticed when I put it on was a distinct flare to the sleeve. I still find it a little disconcerting although i doubt if anyone else notices.

 

[DamianM]

But the flared sleeves are normal. aren't they?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Well, "flared" would suggest wider at cuff than at elbow, which would be not normal.

 

[DamianM]

This one seems to have a bit of flare aswell

 

[Baron Kurtz]

no

 

[Baron Kurtz]

A little flippant, that.

No, it's just the way sleeves look when they're laid flat like that. Here's a standard midcentury sleeve draft, upon which these sleeves were almost certainly based (or something VERY similar).

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I tell a lie, that's a German draft. Der Zuschnitt/Rundschau, probably.

 

[cpdv]

Baron Kurtz you seem to be the go to person for German suits. Do you know what cut of trouser would be appropriate for the late Weimar Republic. If I go for that jacket I want to have the look done right.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Fastuni would know better than me.

 

[Fastuni]

cpdv

First of all this jacket once had matching trousers... it would be difficult to find a matching pair or the exact fabric. It is a dark striped variation of the "Nachmittags- und Abendanzug" (Afternoon and evening suit),
that was intended for minor formal or festive occasions as a inbetween of street suit and formal wear.
The combination of charcoal/black jacket and grey Stroller/Stresemann trousers (with grey or buff waistcoat) was an accepted form of formal daytime suit. There are some very dark versions of striped Stroller/Stresemann trousers. The best possibility would be to find a pair of those, or find a fabric that comes close (Qirrel and herringbonekid could possibly advise you on fabrics... both are also making trousers).

The correct German trousers for this jacket (which is IMO indeed 1929-1933, or as you said late Weimar Republic) tended to be rather simple:

Straight, or slightly tapered legs. Very high waist. Usually no pleats - one inward pleat would be possible. Raised back/Fishtail or bunny-ear suspender tabs were very frequent. Adjuster straps with buckles are also usually found on these. Scalloped rear pocket flaps. Welted fob watch pocket.

Here some examples of such conservative German trousers of that period posted by FLoungers (I hope they don't mind):

I hope this helps.