30s-50s British Suit Trouser photo resource

[Anthony Jordan]

I thought I'd share a few images of a pair of full evening dress trousers for wear with white tie:

Braid stripes on black- and white-tie trousers, for comparison:

Anthony.

 

[Edward]

Being the 'other half' of Mr Stephens, and a female lounger, I feel I can put my 2 cents worth in!

Yes, high waisted trousers couldn't really be described as having sex appeal. By that I mean REALLY high waisted, not just above the waist. But it does sometimes help balance out a long torso or short legs, putting a man more visually in proportion.

Certainly no gentleman would take off his jacket in public anyway, so seeing them isn't really an issue. The nice thing is the trousers don't interupt the line of the waistcoat. Mr Ben and I have had this discussion on more than one occasion and agree it is a good thing.

Also in British weather, higher waists keep you warmer.

Modern high waists make me think of Simon Cowell. Yuck. I just love the vintage look, though - I guess it's about context - somethings always look better in the context of what they were designed to go with... I've been debating whether I could get away with it in the office, though definitely a waistcoat would be the answer. Three peice suits are sooooo much classier than a two piece, IMO.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Modern high waists make me think of Simon Cowell. Yuck. I just love the vintage look, though - I guess it's about context

It's about thigh allowance. Cowell, as i remember wears tight lovejoy-style jeans . . . no graceful, billowy bulk through the thighs.

bk

 

[Edward]

It's about thigh allowance. Cowell, as i remember wears tight lovejoy-style jeans . . . no graceful, billowy bulk through the thighs.

bk

There's nothing graceful about Cowell, that's for sure! lol

My first experience with wearing a Golden Era style high waist for anything more than trying it on was a pair of trosuers actually run up for me by a friend, based on a zoot suit pattern (for part of a Joker costume - a modern, lower waist just did not look right at all. I couldn't believe how comfortable they were - or how flattering on my pot bellied waistline!

You've whetted my appetite! I love morning dress and wish there were more occasions for it to be worn now.

Absolutely... I've only had the opportunity to do it once thus far (though another couple coming up this year) - when I was best man at my brother's wedding. Though given that it was a modern interpretation with a square cut jacket, I don't know that it really counts.... (and a pre-tied crvat - the indignity! ). I've even toyed with the idea of gonig to Ascot purely for the clothes, ha ha. Of course, there's no reason why we shouldn't wear what we want as and when, but given how casual society is now, while I'd love to wear morning dress to my PhD graduation (when that eventually happens), it would be so far ahead of what anyone else would be wearing, it'd look like I was in fancy dress. Sigh.

Eh, well - what can you do? I'm doing my PhD part time, I work for a university full time and every year when I watch my students at graduation, I'm on the platform... our lawyers always turn out well, but it genuinely shocks me when not only the kids but an occasional member of staff from another department has turned up in jeans. In this day and age when anyone can at least make the effort by buying a GBP40 suit in Asda (ok, it's not going to be much of a suit, but sometimes having the deference to make the effort is what's important...).

One day we should have a FL members' event with a morning dress dress code...

 

[nightandthecity]

(memo to self) I MUST GET MY CAMERA OUT

fantastic thread. This is what makes the Lounge worthwhile.

Edward, I'm so used to high waisted trousers that on the odd ocassion I've tried on modern pants they feel like they're falling down. Jolly uncomfortable.

High-waisted isn't really high, it's on or just below your natural waistline - the bit where you actually go in. I sometimes talk about the natural waistline to people and they think I mean several inches south of that!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

memo to self: MUST GET MY CAMERA OUT

Yes, please do. I'll bet you've got some gems n your collection . . .

bk

[edit] wow, this thread's a sticky.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Pair of trousers from a CC41 Burton's suit. (see classifieds.)

external suspender buttons, button fly. No watch pocket and offset double button waistband fastening. No extender tab at waistband.

Suspender buttons are etched 'Montague Burton'.

bk

 

[yellow braces]

This is why the Brit trousers work so well. They are normal waist height at the front (at the navel or an inch-1.5 inch above: standard vintage) and rise to the back for the warmth/comfort effect. This is one of the things i love about 'em.

And of course, we must remember that these trousers were designed to be worn with waistcoats so the torso length issue is moot. Even British sports trousers had lower waists for just this reason.

Let's see some more British trouser features!

bk

Yes let's have more about this. Trousers higher at the back (with or without fishtail) gives for comfort and warmth. Looser fitting and with braces has to look and feel better than walking round with Calvin's showing. Try climbing stairs with crotch seam almost at knee level, it's impossible to do without loosing them! Higher waist and braces every time.

 

[Braces]

Yellow braces

Welcome from another new member. Good to know of another local person interested in wearing traditional trousers and braces!

 

[BellyTank]

Wow-

That must be at least three of you from E. Sussex now...


B
T

 

[Sir RBH]

Indeed Welcome to the Forum.. Looking forward to hearing more from you. Kind Regards

 

[yellow braces]

Welcome from another new member. Good to know of another local person interested in wearing traditional trousers and braces!

Yes it is good to find another wearer of braces in the UK and even a mere 6 miles away! Keep in touch braces!
Yellow Braces

 

[Baron Kurtz]

This is a pair of trousers from a (probably 30s) truly deadstock suit found for me by a friendly FLounger in Sydney, Australia. Though this is Colonial tailoring, i think it qualifies for this thread. I've finally come down on the side of these trousers being made by a tailor trained in the British, rather than the Germanic, tradition. I won't go into the reasons why, but this has been an almost 1 year journey of decision making on my part.

Side and back shots showing a pretty classic british post-30s shape.

And the features.

Box pleats. The fly-most pleat opens towards the fly, the one furthest from the fly opens away from the fly. I'm not sure i like how this makes the trousers drape, but there you go, you take what you get.

And the side adjuster belts and crescent-shaped back pocket. A serious piece of engineering, these trousers are. [note rear pleat opening towards the side seam.

bk

 

[BellyTank]

Turn it up-

Seen trousers with pleats in the back..?
Makes for even more hidden seat volume.

B
T

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Rear pleats.

For some reason utilized in the British 1950 pattern khaki drill trousers (haven't seen others but maybe other patterns too) . . . That's the only place i've seen that feature.

bk

 

[Sir RBH]

Good Day All
Thought i would post some images of one of my suits that is quite unusual. Its a Tweed 3 piece windowpane overcheck and although bespoke there doesn't appear to be a makers label. I'm guessing its 40's or 50's. The main reaosn for this message is the style of the trousers. Obviously from an equestrian background as thy have a Drop Front similar to Jodhpurs. Quite unusual an interesting.
The trousers have a 4 button fly closure but also 2 retaining buttons each side on the waistband. Add to that the brace buttons fitted externally and it all adds up to quite a few buttons to look after. Try that when you are drunk!!
Kind Regards

RBH

 

[BellyTank]

For some reason utilized in the British 1950 pattern khaki drill trousers (haven't seen others but maybe other patterns too) . . . That's the only place i've seen that feature.

bk

The 1st WW2 pattern had them out back too- the English Patient ones.
I have a pair.

B
T

 

[Baron Kurtz]

1950 Pattern Khaki Drill

Here's them British 1950 pattern Khaki drill trousers . . .

A buckle & belt on both sides. 2 rear flapped pockets. And one thigh pocket on the left side.

At the rear the pockets, and two little wee pleats on either side.

Two pleats ether side on the front.

The double belt system of the waistband fastening. You can see on the left the hole that the belt from the right threads through.

Closeup of the belt & buckle. Note the belt coming through the waistband.

Detail of rear pocket flap.

Detail of the buckle.

Label . . .

And war department stamp.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

i hate to get too technical, but those mini pleats seem to be doing what a dart (or 2 darts) would normally do in the same position: shaping in the lower back area. since they are terminated by the rear pocket tops, they don't offer any expandable fabric as front pleats do.

just an observation.

 

[benstephens]

That is true HBK, I have seen this on other 1950s Army trousers and shorts, I am not entirely sure what he purpose of them is, except that in the 1950s, the Army seemed to like pleats all over the uniform to give soldiers more "bull" to contend with?

Ben