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3-Piece suits today

Fletch said:
To that end...

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All I ask is a vest with:
- 6 buttons. Not 5, not 4. Recess the bottom one or not, but it's gotta be there, and so does the buttonhole.
- 4 pockets. Not negotiable. Anything less isn't a vest, it's an apron. And yes, all must work.

- Sharp points at the bottom. An angle less than 90° is what I mean.
- Curves, not corners, everywhere else.

One custom feature I'd like to add, and it's not too much to add, really:
- a second back strap. Just below armhole level. Most vests bag here.

I very strongly agree with you 100% with everything you said regarding the vest (and its construction details) that you have to have, Fletch.

Also, if "recessing" the bottom button and buttonhole on a six button single breasted vest is what is usually referred to as a "six by five button single breasted vest" (where the bottom button and buttonhole only are 0% functional), then, whenever it is possible, "recessing" the bottom button and buttonhole is the only way to go for a single breasted vest. However, If "recessing" the bottom button and buttonhole on a six button single breasted vest is just a regular six-button single breasted vest (where all six buttons are 100% functional), then not "recessing" the bottom button and buttonhole is the only way to go for a single breasted vest.

For what it's worth, low cut formal vests only have two lower front exterior pockets as there is no room for four (two upper and two lower) front exterior pockets.

If a low cut formal vest is bespoke (as possibly super flexible made to measure like H. Freeman, Oxxford, Samuelsohn and possibly Brioni), a low cut formal vest could have two upper interior front pockets in addition to the two lower front exterior pockets.

Otherwise the two lower front exterior pockets would be the only pockets on a low cut formal vest.
 

Dinerman

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Just to stir up trouble, my 1934 black herrinbone SBPL suit has a five button vest, so it wasn't unheard of back in the day.
 

George A.Bailey

New in Town
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England.
Fletch said:
But I would hate for lapels to be anywhere near mandatory. There is just something classic about the lapelless vest. It's dressy and practical at the same time.

I second that, I am a big fan of the lapelless waistcoast as well. The only exception being double-breasted ones, which I usually prefer to sport shawl or pointed lapels, (which I believe is more common with DB waistcoats anyway.)
 

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