3-piece... DB jacket with DC waistcoat. Too much or awesome?

[kuwisdelu]

I have two double-breasted suits, and I've decided I want to get two matching waistcoats ordered for them in the same fabric.

At the same time I've been longing for some double-breasted waistcoats. I love how they look in a three-piece, but most of the time, I see them with single-breasted jackets.

Would it be too much to get a double-breasted waistcoat for a double-breasted suit? Or would it be great? I'm not quite sure yet

I know some of you chaps must have some pictures of this done, and/or had experience with how well it works out.

Any experience or pictures of this would be much appreciated. What do you think?

 

[Geesie]

Why would you wear a waistcoat with a DB jacket?

 

[thunderw21]

Yes, too much. Go with single breasted vests.

 

[kuwisdelu]

Why would you wear a waistcoat with a DB jacket?

It was very common in the 30's. All my vintage 30's DB suits have (single-breasted) waistcoats.

I am also thinking I could order DB waistcoats anyway, and just wear them as odd waistcoats if I think it's too much. Hmm...

 

[Visconde]

 

[Tomasso]

Yes, too much.

Ditto.

 

[Geronimo]

Wow. That man in the back row looks absolutely furious. What's the picture from?

 

[Edward]

Yes, it seems to me that waistcoats with dbs were a 30s thing - it was into the 40s that they disappeared. Many reasons for this, I'm sure. In terms both of what I have seen in actual clothing from the period, photos and also what looks right to my own eye, the waistcoat should always be the opposite of the suitcoat - i.e. sb waistcoat with s.b. suitcoat, and vice versa.

That said, of course, the reality is that once one allows for the vagaries of personal taste and bespoke, it is impossible to rule out pretty much anything in any period, so if it's what you really want, I wouldn't feel the need to "justify" it historically....

 

[Nick D]

Some Burton catalogues that were posted here from the mid to late 30s did have a lot of double breasted suits, all of which included a waistcoat. Db jacket with db waistcoat is less common, but I have seen them. Personally, I like 3-piece double breasted suits, but I prefer the single breasted waistcoat with them.

I believe there's an issue with getting a waistcoat cut for a suit after the suit was made, unless it's cut from the same bolt as the suit it may not match exactly.

 

[Visconde]

The picture is a group of school governors in the 1930's,

got it from dandyism.net forums.

with kind regards

Visconde

 

[Howard Hughes]

DB WAISCOAT

Hello,

As one does not wear a DB jacket open/unbuttoned, you are only going to see the waistcoat when the jacket is removed/not worn, so DB/SB waiscoats are surely a matter of personal preference.

Poodletip
HH

 

[Feraud]

I believe there's an issue with getting a waistcoat cut for a suit after the suit was made, unless it's cut from the same bolt as the suit it may not match exactly.

Agreed. It's generally impossible to match the fabric.

 

[Lokar]

Hello,

As one does not wear a DB jacket open/unbuttoned, you are only going to see the waistcoat when the jacket is removed/not worn, so DB/SB waiscoats are surely a matter of personal preference.

Poodletip
HH

Not if the waistcoat buttons up to a point higher than the jacket.

I've seen Hugh Laurie as Bertie Wooster with a double breasted jacket and what is obviously a double breasted waistcoat underneath - I think it looks fantastic, but all you really see is the lapel of the waistcoat at a slightly more horizontal angle than it would be if it were single breasted.

I don't feel it's too much as only a small amount of the waistcoat should ever be shown.

 

[Mr Mueller]

Not if the waistcoat buttons up to a point higher than the jacket.

I've seen Hugh Laurie as Bertie Wooster with a double breasted jacket and what is obviously a double breasted waistcoat underneath - I think it looks fantastic, but all you really see is the lapel of the waistcoat at a slightly more horizontal angle than it would be if it were single breasted.

I don't feel it's too much as only a small amount of the waistcoat should ever be shown.

I'm inclined to agree. I think it looks wonderful when you can see the top of the vest peering out over the neckline of the jacket. This was especially popular from the turn of the century through the teens and I'm sure appeared throughout the 20s and 30s as well.

Notice the man at the far right in Visconde's pic. He is clearly wearing both a DB jacket and waistcoat. Great pic by the way.

 

[avedwards]

In the film "Chinatown" Jack Nicholson wears a lot of three piece DB suits with SB waistcoats. There is enough waistcoat showing to make it worthwhile to have a waistcoat at all. I think a SB waistcoat would be better as you have four layers of overlapping cloth otherwise, but I think it's down to personal preference. DB three piece suits look very good though IMO and show that the wearer has a lot of style and (in the 1930s) wealth as he is able to afford to have so much cloth used for a suit. Of course one's pocket watch cannot be accessed this way if it's worn in the waistcoat pockets.

 

[Maguire]

I approve, i try to put a vest to my DBs, but always a single breasted vest. Its not relevant to me whether or not it can be seen- its like wearing suspenders with a three piece suit. Its simply proper form for me rather than a fashion statement. I'd prefer to wear a vest and have a place for my pocket watch other than pants pockets, plus when one removes the jacket they still look sharp and formal. Unfortunately, none of my DBs match but if and when i get myself a job or position that allows me to get a custom suit, i definitely will go for a DB with a waistcoat, but i'd really advise going for single breasted on the waistcoat.

 

[Nick D]

Of course one's pocket watch cannot be accessed this way if it's worn in the waistcoat pockets.

Wear it in one of the top waistcoat pockets and you can just reach into the jacket, same as taking a pen or wallet out of the inner jacket pocket.

 

[kuwisdelu]

Thanks for the photo. I do like the look of the gentleman on the far right.

I should have a DB odd waistcoat coming in soon. My main concern is whether or not it will be too much fabric that it cause problems, so I may wait until they arrive and then decide.

 

[Geronimo]

The picture is a group of school governors in the 1930's,

got it from dandyism.net forums.

with kind regards

Visconde

Thanks. I feel very lucky that I wasn't in that fellow's school. lol

 

[Tomasso]

My main concern is whether or not it will be too much fabric that it cause problems

That's a valid concern. You'll have quite a bit of fabric covering your belly when all buttoned up. Imagine doing it up in 16 oz tweed and topping it off with a DB polo coat in 20 oz camel hair. .