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1956 Oxxford overcoat

AlanC

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3,175
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Heart of America
I purchased this vintage Oxxford overcoat on ebay recently, and thought some might be interested in seeing it.

As you can see it came from Bullock & Jones in San Francisco:

p10102024ia.jpg


And is 50 years old. I assume, a MTM/special order:

p10102037ot.jpg


Full view:



Quarter lined interior:



Turnback cuffs:



Unattached pocket seam to allow hands interior access:

(from outside)

(from inside)


Working lapel buttonhole (note, although designed to work, still it is a rounded hole rather than a keyhole)



Closeup of lapel buttonhole with nearly invisible pickstitching:



The edge folded back to reveal some of the guts:

 

AlanC

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,175
Location
Heart of America
Continued (I reached my post limit on the last one):

The fit was surprising to me at first. It was very loose, and I had almost decided it was too big, but I measured the shoulders and they were even narrower than a Brooks Bros. overcoat I have that's tagged as a 38R (I generally wear a 40). The chest measured about right, too. The fit is billowy, an 'A' type body with no waist.

Sorry, but I have on a polo shirt, but I did grab a blazer to wear under it. You can't see it, though. The shoulder measures at 18.25", from underarm to underarm is 22.5" and from the top of the collar to the bottom of the coat is 41". I generally wear a 40/41R.





I ran across this picture posted by Tutee in one of his articles on London Lounge:

duketopcoatcopy6we.jpg


With some obvious differences (no fly front, no raglan sleeves, notch rather than peak lapels) the style is similar. He notes:
This is rough Scotch tweed with fly front, peaked lapels, raglan shoulders and turned back cuffs. The loose fit is an important feature here.
I concluded the loose fit is part of the nature of the coat, simply one I was not used to.

There are a couple of issues with condition. There are a couple of very small moth bites (I assume) on one of the turnback cuffs, but as the cloth behind it is the same they are nigh invisible. There is also a place on the bottom front where it seems as though a thread has caught the front fabric or perhaps something has been repaired. I would probably need a magnifying glass to really see what's going on. It, too, is very minor, and not a concern for me.

All in all, not bad for $25.
 
Does this look familiar?

bricoat.jpg


I actually found this coat at at vintage shop just last month. It was marked for $43 and I had to ask the proprietor how long it had been there and why no one had bought it. She said that people in the neighborhood (i.e. hipsters) like tight fitting clothing. I told her so do I, but that's not the cut. It's cut to fit well but appear oversized (big difference) So she says since she couldn't sell it, she would let me have it for $20!

By label, I'm dating this one to early 60s. Material is in excellent condition, but the collar needs a good cleaning. I have to take it to the expert cleaners in Manhattan for that. I love this look, and am getting a lot of compliments on it.

Regards,

Senator Jack
 

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