1940's Jacket?

[SteveN]

Gentlemen,

Does this jacket look like it comes from the 1940's to you?

Given our recent discussion of 1960's jackets, it looks more like that era to me.

If it is a 1940's jacket, what are the clues to dating it? No union label was displayed by the seller.

Cheers,
- SteveN

 

[Dinerman]

looks distinctly late '50s or '60s to me.

 

[Down2BDapper]

Yeah, I would say 60's too. Although, I can't put my finger on why.

 

[Orgetorix]

First, observe how narrow the lapels are. Second observe the shape around the notch: the top part, at the end of the collar, is pointed. The bottom part, the tip of the lapel, is rounded. This is, as far as I have seen, distinctly late '50s/'60s. One sees it a lot in films and photos from that era, and not much earlier or later than that. Sometimes Oxxford jackets from later eras have a vaguely similar notch shape, but not that pronounced.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I agree.

Though i would say that there is a 1930s suit for sale (dated 1939) in London whose lapels look just like this. It was undoubtedly tailored sometime towards te end of the 1950s to bring it up to date, fashion wise. I don't think that's the case here, but need to see more details to be sure. the buttons certainly don't appear to be like those found on earlier suits.

bk

 

[Eyemo]

Whats the weight of the material like?

 

[Orgetorix]

I agree.

Though i would say that there is a 1930s suit for sale (dated 1939) in London whose lapels look just like this. It was undoubtedly tailored sometime towards te end of the 1950s to bring it up to date, fashion wise. I don't think that's the case here, but need to see more details to be sure. the buttons certainly don't appear to be like those found on earlier suits.

bk

How wide are the lapels? Is the lapel shape/width part of what you think was altered in the '50s? Also, does it have a buttonhole and where is it placed?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

There's no buttonhole on the one in London. It's the relationship of lapel shape to collar shape that really throws out the look of the jacket above. To my eyes, it looks terrible. And the buttonhole placement above is on the verge of being terrible.

bk

 

[Orgetorix]

If your London coat had its lapels altered, they may well have cut off whatever buttonhole might have been there in the first place.

I agree that the shape looks terrible. The buttonhole placement--low and inboard--is a feature of a lot of Oxxford garments, and it's the one thing about Oxxfords that drives me nuts.

 

[reetpleat]

There's no buttonhole on the one in London. It's the relationship of lapel shape to collar shape that really throws out the look of the jacket above. To my eyes, it looks terrible. And the buttonhole placement above is on the verge of being terrible.

bk

I sure hate it when I find those. No way to fix it. the jacket in question is clearly late fifties early sixties, or in the last fifteen years or so.

 

[GBR]

A awful looking thing but 1960s at its worst - or best if you like that.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It would be lovely (i really like the late 50s/early 60s style) if it didn't have that damn collar shape.

ho hum.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I sure hate it when I find those. No way to fix it. the jacket in question is clearly late fifties early sixties, or in the last fifteen years or so.

This is a real beauty - bespoke by a good maker, IIRC. benstephens has seen it too, maybe he can remember. There were two the same size in the same shop - i guess from the same wardrobe - and one of them sold.

The fabric was certainly trimmed away from the "unwanted" width of the lapel. :cry: They weren't that small suits, either. Way too big for me., not that that's saying much, but still …

bk

 

[MrBern]

there was another thread where we discussed that sort of Lapel. You see that shape quite a bit on MadMen. I have one jkt like that. Its definitely in th late `50s early 60s vein. The grey color seems to scream that era as well.

 

[Senator Jack]

That first collar is typically from 64 to 66. The one Mr. Bern has is typically from from 60 to 64.

 

[SteveN]

Whats the weight of the material like?

No idea. It's for sale on eBay, claiming to be 40's, but even my untrained eye thought something was wrong with that date.

SteveN

 

[Edward]

More ignorance than anything on the part of the seller, then, I should have thought. Mostly when they try and pass off any old suit as forties, it's some 80s db....

 

[MrBern]

Gentlemen,

Does this jacket look like it comes from the 1940's to you?

Given our recent discussion of 1960's jackets, it looks more like that era to me.

If it is a 1940's jacket, what are the clues to dating it? No union label was displayed by the seller.

Cheers,
- SteveN

Sidney Poitier wore a similar lapel in 1967 for InTheHeatoftheNight