1940's (?) Horsehide Half Belt Upgrade!

[gruvi]

Hi Everyone,

Happy holidays! In the wee hours this morning I brought home my vintage halfbelt after my friend called and said he was finishing it up and wanted me to stop and get it after I was done work at midnight today.

When I got to his shop I saw it was still not completed so it allowed me to learn what gets done to put in a zipper, and how the lining gets set, and other things I never knew were so involved with a jacket refurbish.

I wanted to have my own before shots, but I only have what seller provided on ebay. When I got the jacket it was a mess with poor repair stitching to armpits areas and lots of rotten thread throughout. The ugly burgundy rayon lining was a mess and poorly fitting. So I went out and bought the green cotton twill and tan twill you see in after shots. The muslin in pockets was old and filthy with wear, so I went all out to get all five pockets done. A lot of stitching was needed all over it. From collar down. Being old this jacket had a lot of evidence of poor restitching and my friend made the best of what he could using the original holes.

Anyway I really dont need to jibber jabber anymore, and I want feedback on how you think it looks. I asked him to set the zipper deeper and higher to the collar, and would like opinions if it looks good or bad and what do you think of my choice of liner? Jacket is way more comfortable when first going on versus the cold old rayon feel it used to have. I will real world test it today for first time going to work again. I need to get used to the twill and how it drags when wearing athletic fleece under it...with a tee, it goes on smooth, and feels swell!
This piece had a LOT done and the fit is positively more tailored and fresh feeling than when first received. He even did reinforcement to the pockets and any other high stress areas. This thing is ready for hard work!

Okay here's pics and thanks for looking
Gerard

Before

After

 

[gruvi]

More pictures. Sorry if any repeats.

 

[mattp]

Looks ready to go for another 50 years! Good choice of linings, goes well with the leather.

 

[oldcrow82]

I sure hope mine looks that good in 70 years, stunning! We need to see it being worn!

 

[gruvi]

Here is the best I could make of it being worn. Please excuse the clothing and the bug/leaf or whatever landed on my tee at this moment! And the background isn't the prettiest I'm getting ready for work and hurried outside to make the shots. What do you think? Does it fit alright?

 

[Cooperson]

Fit looks good, from what I can see. A very nice vintage half-belt and the new zip and re-line looks very neat.

I really like this jacket, my favorite style - enjoy!

 

[gruvi]

Thanks for the compliments. Regarding the zipper, its what camme on jacket from the auction. Its an older crown from before they stopped production. It actually works out better that he put it higher to the collar and it has a bit more bottom split to allow for easier sitting when zipped up. I think these came with a 5 size zip? The talon marked one on pocket has to be genuine right? I can live with the crrown but would be delighted to find an early correct talon for later

 

[gruvi]

Has anyone a thought of whom may be maker of the jacket? I have two I can think it being; Fidelity or Californian. Does anyone think I may be right or were there too many leather houses making these in this style to tell differences?

 

[gruvi]

A small detail I left out is the arm pit grommet holes are stitched around and not metal rings. How many HB makers did this and when? Thanks

 

[Tony B]

OOOHHH I like that, I used to have what is basically a ralph Lauren rip off of that jacket but in wafer thin lambskin......your one pees all over the rip off one.

I like the length and the squared off shape to the shoulders but the collar looks like it needs Jan Solo's water treatment to put some manners on it.

 

[gruvi]

OOOHHH I like that, I used to have what is basically a ralph Lauren rip off of that jacket but in wafer thin lambskin......your one pees all over the rip off one.

I like the length and the squared off shape to the shoulders but the collar looks like it needs Jan Solo's water treatment to put some manners on it.

Thanks! LOL,
Actually the collar is soft. I had it up for the pictures. He restictched whole collar everywhere so its soft yet stands up firmly too. I dont know if I need any treatments besides wearing it a lot. So far it is wearing nicely. The new liner makes it feel like a new jacket really

 

[Edward]

Nice looking jacket. Design isn't a million miles away from the Indy jacket, IMO. I like it. Good choice of lining, too: all looks "correct", not out of place on that period jacket. Fit certainly looks good.

 

[jksu]

cool jacket!

love the upgrade and refurb job. the leather looks like its in amazing condition. love the idea of having a find and fixing it up with your personal touch. great job.

 

[gruvi]

Thanks Edward and jk! I want to see if some knowledgeable jacket gurus see it and give some guesses of the brand it may be. I wore it all day and except for midday warmth, its been a cracker of repelling the cold gusts we have been having here in southeast PA. I left it for a while in my car while shopping and when I got back in, the smell of horsehide filled the cabin!
I may need the sleeve liner adjusted due to some mild blousing near the openings when worn. I need to tug at the jacket to settle the lining so it doesnt gather near my wrists. Its okay after I do this but I want it fixed because this is supposed to be my easy, grab and go jacket. My friend said he had to leave some slack in arms to account for arm stretching and such, but he will take it back in and shorten liner in arms if it doesnt stop blousing once liner settles into my shape.
Is this normal on new twill linings?

 

[jksu]

awesome to have a friend who's a tailor

 

[gruvi]

Still hoping an enthusiast can tell me what they feel this jackets era and possible maker may be? Thanks!