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1920s Vintage 'Oh My God' Suit

LuckyKat

Practically Family
Messages
555
Location
Southern Calif
I've been looking for that suit for 10 years...& it is that suit that I will have copied w/ my vintage material...except I prefer baggier pants...unless you want to just sell that one to me ;-) I'll take it!
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
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18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Here's designer Phineas Cole's version in the latest "Paul Stuart" catalog. It's $1,997.


Apparently, we are all expected to have ballet dancer physiques these days. Our suits ought to fit like ballet costumes, and our trousers should fit like tights.


PhineasCole.jpg
 
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Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Close fitting trousers will not last as long as looser fitting ones. I guess it doesn't mater with a fashion suit.
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
Here's designer Phineas Cole's version in the latest "Paul Stuart" catalog. It's $1,997.


Apparently, we are all expected to have ballet dancer physiques these days. Our suits ought to fit like ballet costumes, and our trousers should fit like tights.


PhineasCole.jpg

I would love that suit. Jackets cut like that are great for my build. The slim pants are alright, but they emphasize how skinny I am. I like the trim jacket, full straight trousers. I forget what decade that style was prevalent, but it is my favorite.
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
Trim, very narrow-shouldered jackets with skinny stovepipe trousers were prevalent from about 1920 to about 1923. Among its other sins, the style makes one's head, hands and feet look enormously oversized.

When were trim jackets with baggy trousers around? I know I have seen the look.
 

Nobert

Practically Family
Messages
832
Location
In the Maine Woods
Trim, very narrow-shouldered jackets with skinny stovepipe trousers were prevalent from about 1920 to about 1923. Among its other sins, the style makes one's head, hands and feet look enormously oversized.


To tell the truth, I've always kind of liked the slim-cut style of the teens/early 20s. Although I've never thought of the pants as being as tight in the groin as the "ballet suit" just posted, and I think of the jackets as more straight cut in the front, giving and almost apron-like effect (especially with the high button stances they used).
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Good question. Answer:

-- The jacket's waist is less surpressed, in the late '20s manner.

-- The jacket's alpaca mohair lining was no longer used by HS&M in the early '30s.

-- The HS&M label design is from the '20s, not the '30s.

-- The trousers' waist is slightly lower (in the '20s manner) than it would have been in the '30s.

-- Single (as opposed to double) forward pleats were an American style that lasted briefly, from the later '20s (when pleats really arrived on the American scene) to about 1930. By the early '30s, double pleats had become universal, and had eclipsed single pleats. Only in the '50s, when Brioni's Italian 'continental' suits took the U.S. by storm, would we see a resurgence of single pleats.
 
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