Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

1920s suits

Claudio

Vendor
Messages
377
Location
Italian living in Spain
great pcitures Herringbone! thanks. I have a similar un-comed grey wool fabric which I really didnt know if it would look good as a jacket and after seeing the pciture of Bogart really lit the lightbulb
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
In the past there have been a number of discussions on the 1920s suits (usually with breeches) that have four pleated pockets and are cut as if they are part of a uniform. The debate is always whether or not they are from a uniform. On the left of this photo is an example of one being worn not as a uniform:
hays-william-001-shaking-hands-in-small-crowd.jpg
 

DamianM

Vendor
Messages
2,055
Location
Los Angeles
In the past there have been a number of discussions on the 1920s suits (usually with breeches) that have four pleated pockets and are cut as if they are part of a uniform. The debate is always whether or not they are from a uniform. On the left of this photo is an example of one being worn not as a uniform:
hays-william-001-shaking-hands-in-small-crowd.jpg

I simply don't see it when people say its a uniform.
4 patch pockets with flaps was a thing then in gabardines, tweeds, and twill's.
All the suits I have seen are either sporing suits or business suits and never did they appear as a uniform as some (for some reason) find them to be)
 

Claudio

Vendor
Messages
377
Location
Italian living in Spain
I simply don't see it when people say its a uniform.
4 patch pockets with flaps was a thing then in gabardines, tweeds, and twill's.
All the suits I have seen are either sporing suits or business suits and never did they appear as a uniform as some (for some reason) find them to be)

I think the 4 pleated pockets surely were originally made so they can 'fill up' easily with maps, compasses, bullets etc etc in either Safari's or warfare. So surely that the notion that they look like uniforms has some fundament? Then of course as tailoring was so much more widespread 100years ago one can immagine how certain sartorial features were mixed from Military to civilian. To me they instantly bring to mind uniform-styles
my 2 pence worth
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
It was thoroughly discussed in the respective threads at the deals & finds section.

It was never disputed that sport-suits with four pockets and breeches were part of civilian fashion.
Particularly with tweeds or similiar civilian fabrics.
It is about solid blue, grey and black versions in "uniformy" fabrics like heavy gabardine or serge.

A rather civilian cut version of this type of suit had a label designating it as an uniform - quite solid proof.
Period illustrations (from different countries) show chauffeurs, private guards and even law-enforcement in such garments.

I maintain that the chances of a solid blue/grey/black four-pocket suit with breeches being part of a sort of uniform are pretty high.
 
Last edited:

The Good

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,361
Location
California, USA
Since they are mentioned here, I'd like to ask, what is the history of breeches being worn in the early 20th century? As non-military wear, I thought that breeches went out of fashion in the late 1700s and early 1800s, mostly being worn since then while wearing horseback riding clothing, or having been worn by children. When exactly did men start wearing them again in such numbers? Were they particularly common during the 1920s, and into the 1930s and '40s?
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
They were worn on motorcycles. I think in colder climates with mud and snow they were more practical (together with boots) since the cuffs of normal trousers would soak and get dirty. I don't know when exactly they had a comeback but they seem to be rather common in pictures from the 20s and 30s if they have an outdoorsy theme.
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
Since they are mentioned here, I'd like to ask, what is the history of breeches being worn in the early 20th century? As non-military wear, I thought that breeches went out of fashion in the late 1700s and early 1800s, mostly being worn since then while wearing horseback riding clothing, or having been worn by children. When exactly did men start wearing them again in such numbers? Were they particularly common during the 1920s, and into the 1930s and '40s?

I don't know about the rest of the world, but they were certainly popular in Romania. Have a look through this thread:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?78051-Romanian-Fashions-in-the-mid-20th-Century

suit4_zps6c1b1738.jpg


I don't suppose they ever really went away in areas where the horse remained a common mode of transport.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
plus fours (knickerbockers) were worn by the man in the street in the early 20s, but i've seen no evidence that breeches were ever worn purely as a fashion garment in the same way.
in the U.S. catalogues you only see them as specifically for motorcycling or other outdoor activities. i welcome any contradictory evidence.

M. Ward, 1922:

breeches_1922_zps32c81882.jpeg


Sears, 1923:

breeches-1923_zps4c19f378.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
Well I didn't say otherwise. Certainly nothing for the city. It's Sportswear or hunting clothes. For rural areas a business suit would be ruined in minutes. I bet dinerman would have pictures from canadians with breeches. Same with Finland and other Scandinavian countries.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
As non-military wear, I thought that breeches went out of fashion in the late 1700s and early 1800s, mostly being worn since then while wearing horseback riding clothing, or having been worn by children.

yes, but the breeches of the late 1700s were a fashion garment. the breeches noted above are descendants of the type made specifically for riding, which are a different thing to the fashion garment.

some people also say that a plus four is a type of breech, so terminology can get confusing.

Well I didn't say otherwise.

we agree then. :p
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
It's Sportswear or hunting clothes. For rural areas a business suit would be ruined in minutes. I bet dinerman would have pictures from canadians with breeches. Same with Finland and other Scandinavian countries.

Such as this suit that was posted some time back by Chrome in Finland:
IMG_7913.jpg

IMG_7921.jpg
 

The Good

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,361
Location
California, USA
Thank you, everyone. I had overlooked their use for motorcycling, as well. It makes sense, as long pants worn with a suit would get dirty and worn, so breeches were the more practical alternative for riding horses and motorcycles. I suppose they did go out of fashion around the 1940s. Is there any idea why people stopped wearing them, and plus-fours? Was there an effective advertising campaign, which was a reaction against the look? I know this is not specifically about the 1920s, but you here seem very knowledgable about the history of these garments.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,643
Messages
3,085,601
Members
54,471
Latest member
rakib
Top