1920s suits

[Guttersnipe]

I call it cult of youth because it only really works for what would be considered a youthful body shape - skinny. Tall is a distinct positive for these cuts as the lines tend to be so long. But you don't want to be carrying any excess through the waist, let's say.

I'd say this is true of modern, fashion forward skinny suits too. If a fellow is tall and rail thin, the the low rise, aggressively tapered leg, short jacket with tons of waist suppression looks okay (if you're into that sort of thing). For the rest of us mere mortals, that look is a recipe for channeling our inner Humpty Dumpty. Although, I'd be willing to give the '20s "Cult of Youth" look a try,if I ever found one of those suits in my size. However, the proportions of early to mid-30's suits do make most physiques look better, in my opinion.

Just for giggles, here is another of those exaggerated fashion plates from the teens.

 

[Guttersnipe]

What say you fellas to this particular look?

DamienM, I still this one from a FB post by you. Sorry!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It looks like someone's borrowed his dad's coat. Not flattering at all. It's too much the other way from cult of youth, almost denying the existence of a body shape underneath.

Were they to be driving coats or something similar, that boxy cut kinda works, but it looks like they're intended as suit coats?

 

[volvomeister13]

these are the two narrowest shoulder jackets i've made:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/herringbonekid/Laurence John Clothes/_1010371.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v53/herringbonekid/linen_suit_01.jpg

(they look extra narrow on the dummy since there's no wadding - or person's shoulder - to fill out the shoulder area).


less padding alone won't give you a narrower shoulder; it will give you a sloping shoulder. to get a narrower shoulder the only way to do it is to bring in the armhole.




'costumy' is a term that the modern bespoke crowd apply to virtually ANY clothing that is too period-specific for them. i don't see why the early 20s style is more costumy than any other period. you could argue in fact that because of the slimmer trousers and neat fitting jackets it actually looks more modern than a 30s-40s look.

INCREDIBLE! You make those as a hobby? Your work is amazing!

Cullen Landis:

(red arrows are not by me).

While I'm a huge fan of the 20's style the suit on the right is an example, IMHO, of how it can sometimes not work. It just looks frumpy on him. Don't know if that's the suit, his body type, or just the way he's standing. Definitely prefer the suit of the guy on the left.

There have been lots of designers showing a 20s shoulder over the last decade, the Japanese (Yamamoto, Miyake, Watanabe, to name a few) in particular. Jill Sander and John Varvatos come to mind as well.

The 20s shoulder is a very unforgiving treatment that requires just the right physique to look good. They round off even the squarest shoulders and they accentuate the size of one's head, neck and girth.

Oh, wow! Those Japanese designers are awesome! Ironically, despite all the time I've spent in Japan I didn't start discovering their amazing vintage-inspired men's fashions until after the last time I was there a year ago. There's so much I want to check out the next time I go.

 

[Guttersnipe]

It looks like someone's borrowed his dad's coat. Not flattering at all. It's too much the other way from cult of youth, almost denying the existence of a body shape underneath.

Were they to be driving coats or something similar, that boxy cut kinda works, but it looks like they're intended as suit coats?

I don't think they were intended as outerwear or anything like that. They're just sack suit cost, with box backs, from the early '20s . . .

 

[cpdv]

I'd say this is true of modern, fashion forward skinny suits too. If a fellow is tall and rail thin, the the low rise, aggressively tapered leg, short jacket with tons of waist suppression looks okay (if you're into that sort of thing). For the rest of us mere mortals, that look is a recipe for channeling our inner Humpty Dumpty. Although, I'd be willing to give the '20s "Cult of Youth" look a try,if I ever found one of those suits in my size. However, the proportions of early to mid-30's suits do make most physiques look better, in my opinion.

Just for giggles, here is another of those exaggerated fashion plates from the teens.

Maybe its me and my large head on my small body but those don't seem exaggerated at all. Kind of like looking at myself in the mirror. This is from a while ago and but I do have the big head on the small body look like the teens and early 20s advertisements

 

[Gin&Tonics]

What say you fellas to this particular look?

DamienM, I still this one from a FB post by you. Sorry!

They look rather like dapper refrigerators with heads and legs...apologies if I offend anyone, but who ever thought this looked good? I guess it goes to show you that although style was far more common in the Golden Age, it certainly wasn't universal!

 

[herringbonekid]

smoking jacket. circa 1919-21 (not mine):

 

[Baron Kurtz]

That over-the-top elegance is what draws me resolutely to this period. I can't see myself wearing such stuff, but I do love it.

 

[esteban68]

They look rather like dapper refrigerators with heads and legs...apologies if I offend anyone, but who ever thought this looked good? I guess it goes to show you that although style was far more common in the Golden Age, it certainly wasn't universal!

what he said!

 

[Dinerman]

 

[herringbonekid]

big lapels, small shirt collar, 1925:

 

[Nobert]

smoking jacket. circa 1919-21 (not mine):

Whose is it? And where do they live? And how tight would you say security is on the premises?

 

[herringbonekid]

Browning King and Co, 1925:

 

[esteban68]

big lapels, small shirt collar, 1925:

Is that really 1925? chap at the back looks a, little like paddy!

 

[esteban68]

Browning King and Co, 1925:

I like those alot!

 

[herringbonekid]

 

[herringbonekid]

 

[Baron Kurtz]

A certain Italian gent in 1922, who appears to be preparing himself for a bit of blustering.

 

[Tomasso]

Il Duce looks like an angry accountant; Nowhere near as sinister looking without the shaved head.