1900’s Vibe Hat Choices? Help me Out!

[Hurricane Jack]

I was a little surprised by how unrefined many of the crowns appear on these earlier hats in the 1902 catalogue. Many of the bashes look hastily done, as if naturally formed by human handling/pinching.

That's what you get with soft felt hats. You can firm a crease up just a bit after you get it to where you want it with just a bit of steam.

 

[Jeff B.]

This is all great information. I’m going to do some more digging here in these forums and see what else I can turn up online in terms of photos.
I kind of like the cattleman crease, but modified slightly, tapering in width towards the front of the hat, and the side dents less conspicuous.

 

[BobHufford]

I don’t think there was a “Gus” as such at the time of those hats.

Yeah ... I think "Gus" died in the late 1870s.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Yeah ... I think "Gus" died in the late 1870s.

“Woodrow, you just don’t ever get the point – ‘It’s not dyin’ I’m talkin’ about, it’s livin’.”

“It’s been quite a party ain’t it?”

 

[Jeff B.]

So I read over the “Pre-1940’s Stetson Westerns” thread and found myself drawn to this fine example.
As I was already considering a Camp Draft, do you folks think the open crown on the CD can accommodate the shallow crease and bashes like on this vintage Stetson?

 

[Hurricane Jack]

So I read over the “Pre-1940’s Stetson Westerns” thread and found myself drawn to this fine example.
As I was already considering a Camp Draft, do you folks think the open crown on the CD can accommodate the shallow crease and bashes like on this vintage Stetson?

It's all about perspective & how the dimensions work together. The CD is blocked straighter & taller at 6". The crown on the hat you have chosen is blocked differently (with some taper) & probably 5-1/4", maybe less.

Besides the thin ribbon & binding the brim of the CD will have some flange cupping slightly upward which may or may not iron out.

This is how a CD comes. The differences are obvious.

 

[Jeff B.]

Thanks Jack. I like the bound edge and cupping of the CD, so that’s not an issue.
I’m not sure if I would try and replicate the crown on vintage Stetson exactly but I do like it. So with the taller, straighter crown on the CD, I guess I would need to use up that material with deeper creases?

 

[Jeff B.]

But, going back to the cattleman’s crease as mentioned in my earlier posts, I really like how this hat looks too.

 

[RossRYoung]

But, going back to the cattleman’s crease as mentioned in my earlier posts, I really like how this hat looks too.

That looks a lot like a modern OR, some seriously tapered sides there.

 

[Frunobulax]

Thanks Jack. I like the bound edge and cupping of the CD, so that’s not an issue.
I’m not sure if I would try and replicate the crown on vintage Stetson exactly but I do like it. So with the taller, straighter crown on the CD, I guess I would need to use up that material with deeper creases?

While I appreciate you are seeking a certain look to the hat, be aware that, once you put it in that configuration, you might not like how it looks on you. That's always a tough call until you see it, and most of us do not have an avenue for trying on different styles until we buy them.

I'm not trying to talk you into a CD, but it will give you some room to play with for a "look" that is what you want and also that you're happy with. Or, any nice, vintage open crown fedora with ~5 1/2" - 6" of crown to play with and 2 3/4"+ brim.

Just a thought.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

So with the taller, straighter crown on the CD, I guess I would need to use up that material with deeper

You can't just "use up" felt in a CD by sinking in a deeper crease without pulling in significant taper or a big roll of felt. You can go from this to this:

Or from this to this, keeping the taper out by using the dents:

Or you can use up felt & lower crown height with a diamond.

I really like how this hat looks too.

I agree with Ross; not a pre-1940's Western fedora style.

You can control the appearance of taper in a taller CD by using big elephant ear dents laid at the proper angle, with or without the dogbone.

Some members get mad & pout when you tell them their hat won't do what they want it to do.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

While I appreciate you are seeking a certain look to the hat, be aware that, once you put it in that configuration, you might not like how it looks on you. That's always a tough call until you see it, and most of us do not have an avenue for trying on different styles until we buy them.

To your point Jim, it's been a while since we've had to run these:

 

[Jeff B.]

Thanks for all your help guys. I'm kind of leaning towards the Camp Draft myself, simply for the options the open crown presents, but we'll see.
I'm a little disappointed in the lack of colours available right now. I really liked the Fawn...

 

[Frunobulax]

To your point Jim, it's been a while since we've had to run these:

View attachment 414504

View attachment 414503

View attachment 414502

Now, Jack. You'll scare him off!

 

[Hurricane Jack]

I'm looking for a good candidate to clone a BtK hat.

Most think it was just a Top Hat but it was not. More like a 3x6.5 open crown to get the slant right.

At 6" a BCD just won't do.

 

[Bamaboots]

It’s the vibe I get when I wear this one.

 

[Jeff B.]

You can't just "use up" felt in a CD by sinking in a deeper crease without pulling in significant taper or a big roll of felt. You can go from this to this:

View attachment 414497

View attachment 414498


Or from this to this, keeping the taper out by using the dents:

View attachment 414500

View attachment 414499


Or you can use up felt & lower crown height with a diamond.

I agree with Ross; not a pre-1940's Western fedora style.

You can control the appearance of taper in a taller CD by using big elephant ear dents laid at the proper angle, with or without the dogbone.

View attachment 414501

Some members get mad & pout when you tell them their hat won't do what they want it to do.

Ok, so one more question for you Jack... What is the finished height of the crowns on those CD's after putting in the Cattleman's Crease?

 

[M Hatman]

I'm looking for a good candidate to clone a BtK hat.

View attachment 414528

Most think it was just a Top Hat but it was not. More like a 3x6.5 open crown to get the slant right.

At 6" a BCD just won't do.

View attachment 414529

Jack, you need to start with one of these for your BTK hat, they are perfect for the job.....an officers Hardy hat, they had higher crown than the enlisted version and typically were bound edge which the enlisted version is not. There are some good makers out there that do a good job with these....I have one I modified and simply love it. These are three western infantry officers wearing unmodified versions on campaign. So you can see what you would have to work with......you can see why people compare them to a "top hat".......

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Ok, so one more question for you Jack... What is the finished height of the crowns on those CD's after putting in the Cattleman's Crease?

4.5 - 4.75" at the dip.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Jack, you need to start with one of these for your BTK hat, they are perfect for the job.....an officers Hardy hat, they had higher crown than the enlisted version and typically were bound edge which the enlisted version is not. There are some good makers out there that do a good job with these....I have one I modified and simply love it. These are three western infantry officers wearing unmodified versions on campaign. So you can see what you would have to work with......you can see why people compare them to a "top hat".......

View attachment 414744

Thanks Mark! I hadn't thought about the Hardy hat. I'll look into a repo if I can find one other than wool.

In the past I've given a lot of thought to the slant & think I can get it correct using a jig & not have to build a block. I have the pic in a structural modeling computer program.