Not to say that one ad page should be considered a wholly representative sample...but look at the ad above. We've got the 100, and maybe those 7x's count (forgot the year of the ad), but then there's six other felt qualities listed which presumably are all blends of a sort.
I think modern...
If you wanna take the claim up with the Forum, be my guest. For prewar hats, a 5x Clear Beaver is generally regarded around these parts as a pure beaver hat. Do I have 100% unassailable academic proof that this is the case? Not as such, no. What has been passed on from one hatter via Hatco, is...
Curious as to where you picked up that an 'X' at any point meant 10% beaver?
Stetson, for example, has never disclosed their formulation, and 100% beaver has been presented as both 5x and 7x at different points.
Also just doesn't really pass the smell test for a 90's hat to be 40% beaver...
This is mostly an Indiana Jones hat thing. During production, a tool called a rounding jack is used to cut the brim. These usually get set at a specific width, so it is uniform all around. Whereas a dimensional brim will have varying widths. The Indy hat is typically 2 3/4" in the front and back...
It's not rocket surgery, peek behind the liner and look at the stitches.
Either way, the main point is you do not need to replace the band. Not only is it wholly unnecessary, it would be a crap shoot trying to find a matching ribbon.
- How do crushable fedoras work and if it's such a great solution why aren't they all like that?
Don't buy a wool hat.
- It's cold where I live. Is it beaver, rabbit or wool that would work best in cooler temps?
Negligible. But again, skip the wool.
- I see where one poster passed another wearer...
Should that be the case, I take it that our friend is smart enough not to duplicate a glued on ribbon when I mentioned that was found on cheaply made hats.
Look inside of another hat and you'll see how the ribbon is stitched. Don't glue it unless you want to build a reputation for cheaply made hats. Taking a hat apart is really instructive to building a hat.
We typically have an Indian summer, but this is getting ridiculous! Downtown SF has been over 90° for the month of October so far. Wrapped up early, so headed to beach. My trusty straw OR is getting some more days in this year (blackthorn walking stick for the trail/steps up and down)
If I understand Milan construction correctly, the braided straw is formed into a strip, which is then sewn back to itself to create the hat body. It's basically a big concentric circle of a continuous spiraling braided strip.
I would be interested to see the end product of a straw Fed IV. The catch in my mind is that straw hats have to have a pre-creased block, open crown straws are not really a thing (ok, Resistol has some western style ones on the market, but no fedoras). It's either going to have the same...
So, looks like the finished crown height is 5 1/4".
Just guessing, but going by the "Belle" and "Chapeaux," chances are this is a millinery block for women's hats.
Also, when you say "in my size," you're aware you need a block that is one size up from the intended finished size/head...
I don't know if it's the proper nomenclature, but I've always thought of it as a telescoped diamond. If you're not going to pop the center back out, just ask for it open crown and do it yourself.
To be fair, the shift towards the board being more populated by custom makers is, relatively speaking, somewhat more recent. The primary resources the forum has are for documentation of vintage hats.
I'm not disagreeing about the overall value of customs per se, but sometimes its ok to just...
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