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  1. Charlie Huang

    Formal Wear Primer

    Well, it depends on what ceremony you are going to and in what capacity. If you're in statu pupillari or a lecturer attending graduation, examination, any formal univeristy ceremony then you must wear subfusc. If you've graduated, not reading any degree, etc going to a graden party or some other...
  2. Charlie Huang

    Formal Wear Primer

    No, they wear subfusc as described here: http://www.admin.ox.ac.uk/statutes/regulations/48-012.shtml (point 5) Military uniforms may be worn. Their guests may wear morning dress or white tie which is appropriate (white tie can be worn in daylight if the event is very formal). Also, I see the...
  3. Charlie Huang

    Formal Wear Primer

    Depends where you are graduating. In Britain, since the gowns are worn open then it is very important that a suit be worn. In places like the ancient ones like Oxbridge, TCD and St Andrews; they prescribe a specific dress code to be worn known as 'sub fusc' (Latin for 'dark or dusky colour') and...
  4. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    Not necessarily. For formal ascots/cravats, the colour and pattern is different from necktie patterns for formal wear and so is for bow ties I imagine. It depends on what will work with the whole ensemble as there is a huge expanse of shirt to contend with.
  5. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    The bowler he wore is a Cambridge bowler. Re bow tie with morning dress: I don't think there is anything said about what colour it ought to be other than it ought to be worn if you're wearing a neck badge of an Order (this is never followed nowadays so you get the rather silly look of having a...
  7. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    I don't think they should be the same colour TBH (in the above photo, they were probably different colour). Anyways, Churchill was always a fan of the bow tie yet he does it so exceedingly well that it could not be incorrect to do so.
  8. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    I think if done correctly, it could look sharp as hell.
  9. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    Interesting. I would actually forego the braid edging but it is a nice change. Sator seems to forget that variation is just as important as being 'trendy' and sticking to one pattern/style of clothing worn by the great unwashed.
  10. Charlie Huang

    Velvet collars

    I think it is acceptable for velvet on a heavy coat or some sort. A dress coat I think is okay but I don't think a morning coat is okay for a velvet collar. It would look odd...
  11. Charlie Huang

    Elbow patches on linen sportcoats

    A bit too glaring. I'd actually chose a leather colour that is more in tone with the jacket.
  13. Charlie Huang

    Barker's new starched collar website

    Well, it is only just gone up so I imagine the range will expand in due course.
  14. Charlie Huang

    Barker's new starched collar website

    http://www.stiffcollars.com/index.php?route=common/home
  15. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    Indeed!
  16. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    My point is that you should separate the vintage from the tailoring aspect which seems to have been muddled up by them. A person who buys vintage does not necessary mean they will only be stuck in that aspect 100% of the time. They still go out and buy new stuff and some do go to tailors and get...
  17. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    Shirts: TBF, as long as it doesn't clash with the ensemble and is harmonious in colour then it really could be any suitable colour in plain form or striped (I think black or big bold patterns would just overwhelm everything however). It's not of much importance in the whole scheme of things.
  19. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    Uh! I've almost had enough with the C&T forum. They misinterpreted my rhetorical question directed against Sator's beliefs and thought they were my own beliefs! And I was doing well defending my Chappist friends as well... Seriously, the forum is becoming a farce the way I see it. Indeed, Sator...
  20. Charlie Huang

    Morning dress

    I agree. All those seams and different pieces interlocking like a jigsaw puzzle and getting the coat to hug the body with a good waist suppression as well as getting the line right. The lounge coat does not have the same demands for fit nor does it have so many more pieces to mess around with...
  21. Charlie Huang

    Antique tailcoat questions

    The closet evidence for the 'rule' I have come across is the pronouncements of the Lord Chamberlain in Dress Worn at His Majesty's Court were the illustrations for the waistcoat of the New Style Court Dress intrinstically based on the white tie full evening dress is illustrated with no peekage...
  22. Charlie Huang

    Tried Activskins (male pantyhose)?

    If only they made them in pure silk! I want a pair to be worn with breeches and court shoes for court dress!
  23. Charlie Huang

    Antique tailcoat questions

    Maybe so but looking at it from an aestheical perspective, no peek, as you yourself say, looks far better and I would say more neat, clean, tidy, understated and elegant. Chester Jefferies.

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