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The Paradox of the Well-Dressed Man
Are we talking about specific dress codes at offices, schools, restaurants, etc., or more general social conventions that stipulate various kinds of "appropriate" attire for different situtations? The reason we have different kinds of clothes--lounge suits, sports wear, evening dress--is...- Orgetorix
- Post #68
- Forum: The Golden Era
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Bow Tie with WIng Collar
One of the first times I realized how good a stiff detachable wing collar could look was when I saw Craig Bierko (as Max Baer) wearing one in Cinderella Man. His collar wings weren't pressed flat with a sharp crease, but beautifully curved. I haven't seen any modern collars like it. -
Need educating on pant's SLIDE closures -Talon & HF w/ Metal Talon Zips!
That's correct. The diamond shape is two triangular pieces side-by-side. Tailors normally cut out their patterns with the cloth doubled over, so that each side is identical to the other. If the fit needs to be altered on one side of the customer's body, they do that later. Unless, of course... -
Need educating on pant's SLIDE closures -Talon & HF w/ Metal Talon Zips!
No, it's just necessary to have a complete pair of trousers if you lay the cloth out as I described above. It doesn't have anything to do with fit, as far as I'm aware. You could make a pair of trousers that fit just as well without it. -
Where are you going tonight
Congrats. Shouldn't he be cooking for you? ;)- Orgetorix
- Post #144
- Forum: The Observation Bar
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Monocles.
We miss him. When did you two get married?- Orgetorix
- Post #73
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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Bow Tie with WIng Collar
Now I wonder how much AK charges for those. I don't think I want to know. -
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Gravati and RL Spectators
Hmm...I may have a new favorite. :D- Orgetorix
- Post #4
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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Skimmer or Boater & a Pith Helmet -New or Old?
No idea about the pith helmet. The other looks like a repro to me. I don't know whether to call it a boater or a skimmer; some people say it depends on the brim width, but I think they are interchangable terms for the same thing. As I say, I think it's a repro, and a cheap one at that... -
Bow Tie with WIng Collar
I've assumed he wears detachable collars with his evening shirts, from the look of them. Do you know that to be wrong? I can't say for sure, as I've never been there and they don't have a website that I know of. However, most other British shops that have a web presence seem to sell... -
Necktie Knots
...so I'll just say this: to dimple or not is up to one's personal taste, but it does help the knot stay put and not slip down over time.- Orgetorix
- Post #92
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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Bow Tie with WIng Collar
It depends on the size and angle of the wings, doesn't it? -
Need help in identifying men's shoe types & styles: General & Specific
I'm afraid I'm not going to be much help with dating any of these--I don't know vintage eras/dates that well. However, I can offer some thoughts: 1) Shoes that close with buckles like that are called "monk straps," or "monks" for short. They don't belong to any particular period--that...- Orgetorix
- Post #3
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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Gravati and RL Spectators
Neither is bad looking, but neither is the look I'd go for if I were getting spectators, personally. The RLs look too avant-garde, and the Gravatis need more brown around the tops, IMHO. These Crockett & Jones Hamptons are my all-time favorite spectators:- Orgetorix
- Post #2
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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Need educating on pant's SLIDE closures -Talon & HF w/ Metal Talon Zips!
A jacket with a 45" chest would be about a size 41, so yes, that's probably what 41 refers to. As for the "gusset," it's the result of a method of laying out the trouser pattern on a length of cloth in such a way that it doesn't use as many yards of fabric. Let me see if I can describe... -
Lee One Hundred, other hats finally being listed...
That's correct.- Orgetorix
- Post #3
- Forum: Classifieds
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World War I veterans
I agree. The war, the events leading up to it, and its geopolitical aftermath were so key in the development of the modern political system and the look of today's map.- Orgetorix
- Post #6
- Forum: The Observation Bar
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Who cares about the boardroom?
Very interesting, Fletch. You may be onto something there.- Orgetorix
- Post #19
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
